small newbie service project
Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 7:14 pm
Hello all,
At the beginning of March this year, I bought a tired horse, Yamaha TDM850 (year 2000) (as some write about it here, "tedium").
The bike was obviously not maintained/serviced well. New import from France.
It had signs of drop/crash on the right side.
When I saw it, I realized its a bad deal. The only reason to buy it is I love TDM850 too much. Had bike like this years ago.
Will come to the point where I ask you for your advices, at the bottom of my story.
Please excuse me for low resolution of the photos, will use high-res. if needed further.
I am electrical engineer, and by working on this bike I am outside my zone of comfort/knowledge. So please forgive me if I do write some nonsense.
First thing I noticed was some brake parts were not original - pad retaining pins/clips, and missed the pad springs (all 3 of them).
Bought a second had braking system for about 50 Euro - just to take these minor parts.
The next encounter was the main switch. It was not the original one, so I had 2 keys. Took the main switch to a local key service technician, and had it readjusted for the original key of the bike - here in Bulgaria this costs 15 Euro. The pins where main switch is screwed (crown, handle), were straighten for about 12.5 Euro.
Improper cable routing had cut one of wires of the main switch, some others had isolation frayed. (Cooling fan's propeller had reach the wire harness).
Poor bas**rds had fixed the problem at the rear of the igniter unit connector, as the bike won't start with the wire's cut.
The plate were main switch locks the handle to the frame was rusty, scratched and I did what I could to have it filed and painted myself.
The non-OEM handlebar goes to trash bin. The bike is kept at a guarded parking. Just asked the security guy to throw it away.
With an OEM handlebar, about 35 Euro total. Had an issues with broken pins at electrical swtiches/gas - they appear to essential, preventing rotation.
One of the large water pipes, thermo-unit to radiator. Almost leaky, after intense friction somewhere.
Hard to describe the amount of dirt/oil around airbox and carburetors. Photo is taken after 3-4 wash/brush cycles. Ordered new inlet rubbers (carburetor to inlet manifold).
At this time carburetors went to specialized technician for service, oil and cooling liquids - off the bike.
Did compression test, 11 bar @ cyl.1 and 11.5 bar @ cyl.2.
Removed the rocker cover, ordered new seal.
Ordered some valve shims, as 4 of all 6 inlet valves had clearance of 0.10mm. The limits are as on TRX, 0.15-0.20mm.
All exhaust were inside the 0.25-0.30mm limits.
Unfortunately I saw inlet camshaft has some scratches (at plane bearings). Scratches become more intense, approaching to timing chain/sprockets. Could describe it as slightly detectable by passing a finger nail over them. The inlet camshaft lobes are nice and shiny, no scratches.
As yet do not have purchased micrometer, I could not properly measure the inlet camshaft wear. Also do not have plastigauge strips to get measurement of cam to caps clearance.
The markings of inlet cam and sprocket are gone by 1.50mm retarded. The markings of exhaust cam and sprocket are almost lined.
Probably the timing chain is stretched and will have to buy new one. Camshaft sprockets will cost me about 75 Euro / piece. But still in doubt if I need to change the entire cylinder head.
Awaiting your opinions, how to go further.
At the beginning of March this year, I bought a tired horse, Yamaha TDM850 (year 2000) (as some write about it here, "tedium").
The bike was obviously not maintained/serviced well. New import from France.
It had signs of drop/crash on the right side.
When I saw it, I realized its a bad deal. The only reason to buy it is I love TDM850 too much. Had bike like this years ago.
Will come to the point where I ask you for your advices, at the bottom of my story.
Please excuse me for low resolution of the photos, will use high-res. if needed further.
I am electrical engineer, and by working on this bike I am outside my zone of comfort/knowledge. So please forgive me if I do write some nonsense.
First thing I noticed was some brake parts were not original - pad retaining pins/clips, and missed the pad springs (all 3 of them).
Bought a second had braking system for about 50 Euro - just to take these minor parts.
The next encounter was the main switch. It was not the original one, so I had 2 keys. Took the main switch to a local key service technician, and had it readjusted for the original key of the bike - here in Bulgaria this costs 15 Euro. The pins where main switch is screwed (crown, handle), were straighten for about 12.5 Euro.
Improper cable routing had cut one of wires of the main switch, some others had isolation frayed. (Cooling fan's propeller had reach the wire harness).
Poor bas**rds had fixed the problem at the rear of the igniter unit connector, as the bike won't start with the wire's cut.
The plate were main switch locks the handle to the frame was rusty, scratched and I did what I could to have it filed and painted myself.
The non-OEM handlebar goes to trash bin. The bike is kept at a guarded parking. Just asked the security guy to throw it away.
With an OEM handlebar, about 35 Euro total. Had an issues with broken pins at electrical swtiches/gas - they appear to essential, preventing rotation.
One of the large water pipes, thermo-unit to radiator. Almost leaky, after intense friction somewhere.
Hard to describe the amount of dirt/oil around airbox and carburetors. Photo is taken after 3-4 wash/brush cycles. Ordered new inlet rubbers (carburetor to inlet manifold).
At this time carburetors went to specialized technician for service, oil and cooling liquids - off the bike.
Did compression test, 11 bar @ cyl.1 and 11.5 bar @ cyl.2.
Removed the rocker cover, ordered new seal.
Ordered some valve shims, as 4 of all 6 inlet valves had clearance of 0.10mm. The limits are as on TRX, 0.15-0.20mm.
All exhaust were inside the 0.25-0.30mm limits.
Unfortunately I saw inlet camshaft has some scratches (at plane bearings). Scratches become more intense, approaching to timing chain/sprockets. Could describe it as slightly detectable by passing a finger nail over them. The inlet camshaft lobes are nice and shiny, no scratches.
As yet do not have purchased micrometer, I could not properly measure the inlet camshaft wear. Also do not have plastigauge strips to get measurement of cam to caps clearance.
The markings of inlet cam and sprocket are gone by 1.50mm retarded. The markings of exhaust cam and sprocket are almost lined.
Probably the timing chain is stretched and will have to buy new one. Camshaft sprockets will cost me about 75 Euro / piece. But still in doubt if I need to change the entire cylinder head.
Awaiting your opinions, how to go further.