Long time since i did this, but i followed the instructions below (courtesy Bob?) which can be found with all the pics in:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/trx/files/
There's one attached picture in the bottom of this post.
I didn't buy these new, so i have no clue about the RaceTech site and tags, sorry
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FITTING RACETECH GOLD VALVE EMULATORS to the YAMAHA TRX850
1. Remove front wheel & brake callipers.
2. Loosen the fork caps about half a turn only.
3. Loosen the allen bolts which hold the damping rods in place about one turn each. These are located under the bottom of the forks and can be real mongrels to loosen. At worst you may need a rattle gun.
4. Loosen the handlebar clamps, top triple clamps and bottom triple clamps, then remove the forks.
5. Taking care to avoid swapping bits between legs, disassemble the fork by removing the fork cap, the top washer, spacer, bottom washer & spring. Empty the fork oil into a suitable container (about 500ml minimum) by inverting the fork, then pumping it until all oil is expelled. Then remove the allen bolt and copper washer from underneath the bottom of the fork, and the damping rod should drop out the top.
6. Repeat the process on the other fork, taking care to mark the components and leg to avoid swapping bits between forks.
7. Disassemble the damping rod by removing the spring clip which holds the damping valve into the top of the rod, then withdraw the damping valve, it's detent spring and detent ball. The valve, detent spring and ball are of no further use.
8. Braze up the three detent holes and the one oil feed hole. Dress up any brazing dags on the outside for a completely smooth finish, and inside if there is any risk of bits falling off. Do not alter the original rebound hole. Drill four new 8mm compression holes as per the photo, and enlarge the two existing compression holes to 8mm (they are about 6mm as standard), and chamfer the edges both inside and out.
Note that it is important to stagger the holes in order to avoid weakening the bottom of the damping rod - it carries the full weight of the bike via the spring.
9. Cut off the damping adjustment shaft just below the bottom of the fork cap.
10. Drop the damping rod back into the fork along with the spring, then screw the fork cap back on loosely. Invert the fork, press down as firmly as possible against the spring pressure and replace the allen bolt and copper sealing washer using a suitable thread sealant to lock the assembly.
11. The following instructions pertain when using the Ohlins 8604-80 springs which I believe are not actually intended for the TRX850 but which, when used in conjunction with Gold Valve emulators are a more suitable length than the recommended Ohlins spring. The added length of the emulator means that the recommended Ohlins spring is too long and would thus result in excessive preload. The emulator used is the “Race Tech FEGV S4101 Gold Valve Cartridge Emulatorâ€
12. Using 31mm OD 3mm wall thickness PVC pipe (as used for plumbing purposes) cut two spacers to 70mm length each using either a tubing cutter or a mitre box to ensure the ends are square and clean. If your ends are not square there is a likelihood that the wall of the spacer will deform and the spacer may collapse.
13. Set the preload on the Gold Valve emulator to two turns on, using a thread sealant to lock the thread. Fit the supplied spring clip to the bottom groove of the emulator – this ensures that this model emulator is a snug fit inside the top of the TRX damping rod. Drop the emulator (nut side down, allen bolt side up) into the fork and shake the fork to encourage the emulator to seat into the top of the damping rod.
14. Pour about 300ml of fork oil (I suggest about 15 or 20wt) into the fork, then pump the fork up and down until all air is expelled and the oil has fully infiltrated the bottom chambers of the fork. Then with the fork fully compressed, top the oil up to 110mm from the top of the fork tube (more or less according to your preference).
15. Note here that the level of oil in the fork tube has a very significant affect on springing because as the fork compresses, the air trapped in the top of the fork compresses, thus acting as an air spring. Too low an oil level (and thus too much air gap) and the forks will bottom out too easily; too high an oil level (and thus too little air gap) and the spring action will become too strong as the suspension nears full compression. About 110mm from the top of the tube works fine for me (at about 90kg bodyweight) with the Ohlins 8604-80 springs. Note also that the emulator controls compression damping while the flow of oil back through the original rebound hole in the damping rod controls rebound damping. To alter compression damping you increase the spring preload using the allen bolt on the top of the emulator. To increase rebound damping you increase the thickness (viscosity) of the fork oil.
16. Drop in the spring, then with the fork partly compressed, rotate and shake the spring until it seats properly on the top of the emulator.
17. Drop in the first flat washer, then your new spacer, then the second flat washer. At this point the second washer should be just a few mm below the top of the fork tube (with the fork fully extended). If the top washer and part of the spacer are standing above the top of the fully extended fork tube, then either the emulator is not properly seated in the top of the damping rod, or the spring is not properly seated on the top of the emulator. Fit the top cap to the fork and tighten it finger tight.
18. Repeat the assembly process on the other fork leg, then refit the forks into the bike.
19. Replace the fork into the triple clamps and tighten the top triple clamp only quite firmly and tighten the fork caps.
20. Now you need to align the front end components to prevent any binding as the forks compress. With both fork legs fitted and with only the top triple clamps tightened firmly, refit the front wheel (but don't tighten the axle, just make sure that the axle threads are well engaged) and refit the brake callipers.
21. Drop the front wheel back onto the ground, sit astride the bike, apply the front brake and bounce the front end firmly a few times.
22. Now tighten the bottom triple clamp bolts, then the axle bolt & pinch nut, then the handlebar clamps, then refit the front mudguard and you're done.
23. Some useful measurements:
A 110mm air gap uses about 440ml of oil per leg, but this is approximate and depends on just how empty all the chambers in the fork leg were when you started.
The two flat washers are each 2.5mm thick.
The spacer is 70mm long and is made from 31mm OD 28mm ID. The stuff I used is branded “IPLEX PIPELINES PRESSURE 31†in NZ. I would describe it as PVC but that may not be chemically correct.
The emulators are 33.5mm OD, and the “shoulder†(which stands between the top of the damping tube and the bottom of the spring) is 20mm tall.
Total stack height of the internals is 510mm being the emulator (20mm), spring 415mm), spacer (70mm) and two 2.5mm washers (together 5mm).
people are looking at me strange as i flip my toe slider up for the ariel and talk into the sole of my boot. Mission accomplished chief,you know we should be doing this in the cone of silience 
but I'm waiting now for the sexy agent 69 ...Stella from MY FACE RACING to come home and take some pics with her trusty vowel phone but the rods are straight and I know are the original std aust model damper rods before the first front end rebuild.