r1 swingarm into a trx

[Mincehead]

Nae worries we all make mistakes.
I`ll keep my kneecapping mallet for another day.

[biker-nut-1986]

right

decided

im going wit the r1 rear end

the bike is going to be turbo'd so id rather a bike that keeps the front end lower than manage to go round a corner like a motogp star which im not


ta for the help and ive now got the yzf750 rear end still in the back in my mind just in case

help with spacing would help

[NWS870R]

Mmmmm...depends on what other chassis & or engine mods have been made. I'd agree that a standard TRX will never need any more than a 160 section - the further away from stock you go the more you'll demand from your tyres. Even changing between manufacturers can show massive differences in turn in rate, etc so it's a case of choosing what suits your riding style, application (track or road?) & geometry set up of bike if modified?

I completely agree with you that different manufacturers and specific tyres have different profiles and applications but that's completely different to whether a bike needs a bigger section rear tyre.

A 160 is more than enough - even for a tuned TRX. The advantages of a 180 section on a TRX are negated by a slower turn in IMHO.

So a 99 R6 would be a slow steering bike with it's 180 section then? It's a fair comparison to a well modified TRX - remember i'm talking about very modded TRX's here not a bike with a can & stage 1 Dynojet. Whilst the claimed (crank) figure was 120 ponies on an R6 - the reality for owners was anything between 96 - 102 maximum which is easily achievable with a Rex with money & expertise permitting. I've owned 3 R6's & would say they are probably the quickest steering bike i've owned (even as standard) So like i said before - it really depends on the overall set up/power/geometry of a bike that determines what's required with the black stuff at the rear end?

Watch me moan in a few weeks about how slow my bike steers when i actually get to ride it & how i'll look like a dick asking for advice

[biker-nut-1986]

Mmmmm...depends on what other chassis & or engine mods have been made. I'd agree that a standard TRX will never need any more than a 160 section - the further away from stock you go the more you'll demand from your tyres. Even changing between manufacturers can show massive differences in turn in rate, etc so it's a case of choosing what suits your riding style, application (track or road?) & geometry set up of bike if modified?

I completely agree with you that different manufacturers and specific tyres have different profiles and applications but that's completely different to whether a bike needs a bigger section rear tyre.

A 160 is more than enough - even for a tuned TRX. The advantages of a 180 section on a TRX are negated by a slower turn in IMHO.

So a 99 R6 would be a slow steering bike with it's 180 section then? It's a fair comparison to a well modified TRX - remember i'm talking about very modded TRX's here not a bike with a can & stage 1 Dynojet. Whilst the claimed (crank) figure was 120 ponies on an R6 - the reality for owners was anything between 96 - 102 maximum which is easily achievable with a Rex with money & expertise permitting. I've owned 3 R6's & would say they are probably the quickest steering bike i've owned (even as standard) So like i said before - it really depends on the overall set up/power/geometry of a bike that determines what's required with the black stuff at the rear end?

Watch me moan in a few weeks about how slow my bike steers when i actually get to ride it & how i'll look like a dick asking for advice

the bike will be hopefully turbo'd so keeping the front end down is priority rather than stickin it into a corner faster than a rossi wanna be

cornering isnt much of a problem for me cos im not a racer and couldnt tell how quickly its turning in i wouldnt know the diference im and enduro racer mainly and the trx is my racer to catapolt me through my local race road ( wont name it cos im round ther on my s10 alot at night doing 100mph plus ) and want the trx to take me through these

if the cornering isnt up to scratch i will change it at the time but for now im going with the r1 swinger

thanks

[Tarwetijger]

I completely agree with you that different manufacturers and specific tyres have different profiles and applications but that's completely different to whether a bike needs a bigger section rear tyre.

A 160 is more than enough - even for a tuned TRX. The advantages of a 180 section on a TRX are negated by a slower turn in IMHO.

So a 99 R6 would be a slow steering bike with it's 180 section then?
8<
So like i said before - it really depends on the overall set up/power/geometry of a bike that determines what's required with the black stuff at the rear end?

Watch me moan in a few weeks about how slow my bike steers when i actually get to ride it & how i'll look like a dick asking for advice

It ís indeed about geometry and the TRX is designed for a 160 tyre.
You can read here:
http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/view ... f=6&t=4941
why I switched back from YZF swingarm, rearwheel and 180 / 190 tyre to the original 160 tyre and... the bike absolutely steers better with the original tyre size.

[NWS870R]

Which is exactly what i said - the geometry of my 'one off' chassis is not standard

[phuk72]

Which is exactly what i said - the geometry of my 'one off' chassis is not standard

so why bring R6's and your bike (with non standard geometry) into the debate? You spoke about chassis and power mods requiring a bigger tyre not completely changing a frame. Out of curiosity, how much of a difference to the gemoetry does teh NWS frame make?

And FWIW just because it is standard fitment (i.e. a 180 tyre on an R6) does not mean it is needed or necessary. FFS they fitted a 60 profile front tyre to the easrly R6s and the TRX.

I've never had any grip issues on the road or track with a 160 - and yes, my bike is tuned and has altered geometry

[Quan-Time]

R1 swinger is WIDER at the pivot, so you will need to machine like 10mm off each side from memory. Id double check that size tho.

I personally WIDENED my frame. Took the whole lot off, machined it out a bit. Fitting a R1 rear wheel also required to space out your front sprocket dangerously. Ive made a custom front sprocket which is "dished" to accommodate for this.
Once thats done you start to run into chain / frame clearance issues. Also note that the rear brake on a R1 feels like wood. That or the caliper / rear master cylinder combination is crap.

Lastly, you will want to look at changing your rear sprocket because the chain pitches are different.. That or just modify your front to suit a 520 chain.

Would i ever do it again ? HELL NO.. But i got the wheel and swinger for free, only thing i paid for was the chain and sprocket which i got at cost price anyway (thru a mate at the dealer who i did a deal with).

Its an OLD pic, bit it gives you an idea of the length..


It takes AGES to turn.. it is so weird to ride. Even with a turbo i dont know if id keep it that long personally.
Hope all this is of some help to you.

OH !! forgot to mention. The suspension WONT bolt up correctly. So unless you are really hand with building your own gear, or are prepared to spend some coin doing it, its gonna really piss you off. SERIOUSLY. Im still adjusting mine. And im talking about the physical linkages and setup, NOT the compression and rebound.

[NWS870R]

Which is exactly what i said - the geometry of my 'one off' chassis is not standard

so why bring R6's and your bike (with non standard geometry) into the debate? You spoke about chassis and power mods requiring a bigger tyre not completely changing a frame. Out of curiosity, how much of a difference to the gemoetry does teh NWS frame make?

And FWIW just because it is standard fitment (i.e. a 180 tyre on an R6) does not mean it is needed or necessary. FFS they fitted a 60 profile front tyre to the easrly R6s and the TRX.

I've never had any grip issues on the road or track with a 160 - and yes, my bike is tuned and has altered geometry

Because i thought it was subjective & comparible with reference to use of a 180 section - i also pointed out very early in the thread that i was refering to very heavily modded bikes, i just thought that a sweeping statement like 'anything more than a 160 is pure bling' is a bit of a narrow view & other mods should be taken into consideration to give a good all-round package.

To a point, i agree with you (read my comments again) the 'other' NWS framed bike (my wifes) is completely standard with regards to geometry i.e: head angle, etc, which is why the finished bike with only 79.3 at the rear wheel is & will always use a 160 section.

As it turns out the original author of the thread doesn't want the bike to corner so our ramblings aren't required anyway

[Jak]

our ramblings aren't required anyway

That's never stopped anyone round here though

[phuk72]

As it turns out the original author of the thread doesn't want the bike to corner so our ramblings aren't required anyway

LOL - true enough

[biker-nut-1986]

very true BUT your opinion is valued and heard and listened to
i have this thread as a back up plan if the swingarm doesnt work out

oh and my trx project has stalled for the moment
bought a tdm850 and the r1 swinger is going into that aswell as the turbo and tuned engine and more

but will do the trx once ive completed the tdm he xtz dakar the xt6 tenere dakar and whatever else takes my fancy

so
if anyone wants to buy a modified frame

you know how to pm

thanks