Replacement Fork Springs

[dandywarhol]

Best tool for the job is an airgun or a torquy electric wrench. The sudden hight torque of a gun will (usually) break the allen bolt free without having to hold the damper rod from inside.

[BBB]

just changing the springs so the damper won't be an issue.

cheers

[steve speed]

let us know how it feels when you take it out on the test ride

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

yer just gotta remember to locate the damper rod back into the unit down the bottom of the fork when placing the cap back on...

[G Beale]

yer just gotta remember to locate the damper rod back into the unit down the bottom of the fork when placing the cap back on...

Yes & that can be a right PITA I found. If the cap is reluctant to locate don't force it, probably means the rod had missed the hole.

[BBB]

springs haven't turned up yet.
bit confused
will the damper rod lift out with the spring without having to unscrew the bolt on the base of the forkleg or do i have to unbolt it??

thanks.

[G Beale]

The rod is the adjuster attached to the top cap & passes all the way down the fork leg through the spring into the damper unit itself & yes it just lifts out without undoing the bottom bolt. It has a flat on one side of it & locates in a hole of the same shape in the damper unit. You'll be fine only replacing springs (& oil) as they lift out once the top caps are off. Just remember the order that all the washers & tubes come out. When they go back together I think it goes washer, spring, washer, tube, washer, cap.. . I think.

[BBB]

thanks that has cleared it up

Hopefully the Haynes manual has got all the washers and stuff labelled in the right sequence.

Still got to rebuild and refit the carbs before fitting the springs. Full report once fitted.

[trixynut]

Haynes manual has it all in, and as has been said:

Unscrew fork top cap (17MM iirc) remembering it's under pressure from the spring below, then take it out and the damper rod comes with it. Then take out big washer, spacer tube, big washer (same as the other one exactly) and fish in the fork tube with a bit of hooked wire/coathanger for the spring and take it out too. As easy as.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

What i find handy is to have a rag close by as you lift the spring out, SLOWLY to allow oil to run back into the fork and To wipe any excess oil with one hand on the spring as you lift it out with the other..

[BBB]

fork springs have turned up but...

original springs are 381mm (according to Haynes) the Ohlins are 550mm in length.
Will it be sufficient to ditch the spacer or have they sent the wrong springs??

Cheers

[Killerwhale]

fork springs have turned up but...

original springs are 381mm (according to Haynes) the Ohlins are 550mm in length.
Will it be sufficient to ditch the spacer or have they sent the wrong springs??

Cheers

The spacer is obsolete with Ohlins, i´ve had them myself when i had the standard forks....

[dandywarhol]

550 seems helluva long - the TDM ones are 505 with no spacer - and they're longer forks

[idl1975]

fork springs have turned up but...

original springs are 381mm (according to Haynes) the Ohlins are 550mm in length.
Will it be sufficient to ditch the spacer or have they sent the wrong springs??

Cheers

Is the rate printed on the springs? Can you compress the springs enough to get the required fork travel? If both of the above check out, lose the spacer and try them out. You can always go back.

[BBB]

found this on the Ohlins website:

http://www.ohlins.com/Our-products/Moto ... /08608-70/

States TRX but the URL contains the word 'Dual-Sport' a TDM reference maybe??

Either way I give them a trial fit and see how it goes.