Adjustable Dogbones

[tz250w]

These are the ones I made up for my bike. The pivots are 10mm jobs with a RH and LH thread at each end. The tie rods are I believe 19mm hexagon aluminium rod that I turned down in the middle. I got longer bolts with the same shaft diameter as the stock ones (that go through the linkage) and then faced off the excess. I've also added washers on each side of the pivots to keep them from rotating too far and possibly grinding on the linkage or bolt head. In these pictures they're set with the rear about 15mm higher than stock. They'll go a little more but I would need to face some more off the aluminum tie rods if I wanted to get radical like Honky.

Sorry, no specs... But it's not rocket science. Just get the pivots from your pivot shop and measure center to center on the stock dogbones then figure out how much you want to shorten / lengthen them. Be sure to leave as much of the pivot's threaded portion in the tie rod as possible at full extension, I'd guess at least 10mm or more or you may end up on your arse...

Oh, did I mention you need access to a lathe and LH thread taps?

[madivi]

Years later...

I would like to fiddle around with shorter dogbones, although many here have reported getting worse handling.

'Cause I'm crap using a lathe I thought about using tie rods like they are available on sailing ships.
Do you (or anybody else here) think such parts could withstand? They're usually of stainless make, so quite heavy too.

[devlin]

I know the sort you mean.....



Replace the eye ends with the rod ends. If your careful and set it up properly it should work.

[bobtrx]

You could knock up dog bones from flat mild steel 25mm x 6.5 mm in different lengths cost about nothing and requires a drill and 2 drill sizes and vice and tape measure and spanner \ socket and bike securing device . Clamp both pieces together to drill to get'm the same hole centre From memory hole centres 10 mm less than standard lifted the rear about 30mm and raising the forks to 40mm measured from the top of the triple clamp to the top of the fork ( not fork cap ) makes a good feel and still very stable


I use clip on handle bars , thats why the forks will look longer than with standard handle bars

[madivi]

Yep, exactly these.
I'd go for M8 ones.
Thinking of using the old dogbones (sawing the ends of) and weld them to the threaded rod.

I'm looking from some extra clearance (under bike exhaust), so intend to fix the handlebars below the top yoke, but put the stanchions level with the yoke! => 30mm plus front and rear.
I'm quite astonished you did the same, and lowered the front
But it looks like you have plenty of clearance left!

[devlin]

Bob, definitely does the job and would cost feck all. I like to twirl my moustache just that little bit extra. Can't help myself.

[Kayla]

Not to turn this into a 'my bike has this...' thread, but my bike has a 20mm lift at the rear and 25mm showing above the clip-ons. This keeps the ride height roughly the same but changes the attitude (more front-endy). It feels loads better than it was. It's only dropped a degree or so rake so it's still stable.

[slow codger]

Dave E

[mickjmag]

Hey Max,
You say you've used m10 rod ends for the linkages and as the trx pivot bolts are 12mm in diameter what did you do to make up the difference? did you make up a sleeve or did you actually use m12 rod ends?

Cheers, Mick

[jimmiboy]

They look the nut's!

I've so far put my clip-ons under the top yoke and moved the pegs up'n'back.

Lifting the back end to get sharper stearing was the next job on my list.

I've got a swingarm I want to brace too, but we have no ally welding gear at work so I'll have to make up the bits and find a weldshop nearby.

Jimmiboy.....

[jimmiboy]

Years later...

I would like to fiddle around with shorter dogbones, although many here have reported getting worse handling.

'Cause I'm crap using a lathe I thought about using tie rods like they are available on sailing ships.
Do you (or anybody else here) think such parts could withstand? They're usually of stainless make, so quite heavy too.

Take the ends out and look down the centre of the tube part.

If you can't see all the way through they could well be machined from solid.

If you can see all the way through they are likely to be tube, also look for a seem of weld running down the length of the inside.

If they are machined out of solid(un-likely) they might(but I stress its your call) do the job, but if they are stainless tube thats been threaded(more than likely) I wouldn't risk it as they for sure won't be strong enough.

Hope this helps...

Jimmiboy.

[G Beale]

Well, I have it on good authority that ally (non adjustable) dog bones are more than up to the job so with this in mind I knocked these up tonight.



Sorry for crap picture quality, probably user error. I have access to a vast supply of steel/ally/stainless etc but had this ally strip kicking about in my garage so thought I'd put it to good use. It's 6.5mm x 32mm so a bit wide but better that than too thin. The extra .5mm means I haven't been able to fit a washer under the bolt heads as the shoulder wouldn't have poked through the other side enough but I'm willing to chance it for a few hundred miles. Done hole centres @ 170mm as per YZF just for the sake of experiment for now. Does seem "very" high up now but should settle a bit when I ride it ? I know this much, my chain needs adjusting now !

[jimmiboy]

The extra .5mm means I haven't been able to fit a washer under the bolt heads as the shoulder wouldn't have poked through the other side enough but I'm willing to chance it for a few hundred miles. Done hole centres @ 170mm as per YZF just for the sake of experiment for now. Does seem "very" high up now but should settle a bit when I ride it ?

Good job, you could mill .5mm or so out on one side of each plate from center to center.

That'd allow you to fit the washer back on and it'd look cool too!

Whats the standard center to center dimention, and how much lift have you got for your troubles?

Jimmiboy....

[G Beale]

Standard hole centres are around 183mm and there are no washers fitted under the bolt heads. I would have liked to use some for fear of the bolt damaging the soft ally. Milling a recess for the washers would be lovely but it's a bit beyond the capabilities of me & my hand drill, files, & angle grinder ! Maybe if I'm happy with the set up I'll go se my engineer friend, get it done for peace of mind.
Sorry I didn't measure before I started, just got stuck in. If it feels ok on the road then fine, if not I might try something in between 170mm & 183mm, there's plenty of ally left.
I know it looks cool (well I think so) but I'm hoping to put myself in touch with what's going on a bit better by doing it. I found myself leaning over the tank around islands/bends when I rode it home. Just didn't have a clue what was going on at the front ? I'm guessing that's why most peeps do it ?

[Kayla]

... Just didn't have a clue what was going on at the front ? I'm guessing that's why most peeps do it ?

Yep. I got some +20mm ones on mine plus a 20mm or so drop at the front too. It keeps the ride height vaguely right and gives loads more feel from the front