From bad starting to no starting

[lars]

Hi,
I have a starting problem, my bike always starterd difficult, i can't use the choke i always did it with a bit of throttle. If i use just a little bit of choke the engine dies.

Yesterday morning i was going for a ride, but it wouldn't start, but i need to go some where so i used my wife's bike.
After 3 hours i came back i tried it again and it started at the first try. went for a ride with no probs.

This morning i tried to start it again but i didn't start! battery went also down.
After a short push with my wife on the bike it started very easy.

Bike i fitted with a K&N filter with open original cans.
bike haves run 40000km's and last valve clearance is unknown.

I'm thinking it's valve clearance or something with the choke/carbs.
Or is the battery at his end? it's 4 years old.
Tips are welcome!

[TonyDevil]

Hi,
I have a starting problem, my bike always starterd difficult, i can't use the choke i always did it with a bit of throttle. If i use just a little bit of choke the engine dies.

Yesterday morning i was going for a ride, but it wouldn't start, but i need to go some where so i used my wife's bike.
After 3 hours i came back i tried it again and it started at the first try. went for a ride with no probs.

This morning i tried to start it again but i didn't start! battery went also down.
After a short push with my wife on the bike it started very easy.

Bike i fitted with a K&N filter with open original cans.
bike haves run 40000km's and last valve clearance is unknown.

I'm thinking it's valve clearance or something with the choke/carbs.
Or is the battery at his end? it's 4 years old.
Tips are welcome!

could be the fuel pump
fill her up with fuel, if it doesnt happen as much when the tank is full then its defo fuel pump

[TomiF]

I have some corrosion on battery connection. I don't know what it is english but on those + and - things where wires goes. It makes my trx to start little bit bad and sometimes (very rarely) it loses all electricity. Gotta clean those thingies at the winter. Now i'm just enjoying from last good or not so good riding days for this summer.

[JL]

Those + and - things are called terminals

When my valves needed to be done, my bike became hard to start when cold. A push start generally got it going, and when warmed up it was ok. If it was parked out in the sun somewhere it seemed to start a bit easier iirc, but that was quite a while ago, so it might just be my imagination! Getting the valve clearances back to spec fixed the problem for me. At 40,000km it would probably be wise to get them checked anyway, especially if you don't know when they were checked last. I think the general consensus is that the valve clearances should be checked earlier than Yamaha specifies (esp. for '96 models).

[lars]

Checked the valve clearance to day, all inlets are very narrow, even a 0,05 feeler didn't go in!
All outlets are ok! is this normal? my borther (cbr1100XX) said outlet wears off faster because they get hotter.

[brockzila]

Lars you have described exactly the same issues as my bike. very hard to start from cold, choke would kill it. But like JL said a push would do the trick and once warm was fine.

when i checked my clerences i had 0 cleerence on the same side as you. i gad a few engine issues after that but once i got it back together and ever since it has started on a dime.

get those clerences sorted and you should be sweet.

Make sure you inspect the no1 cylinder cam jurnal as they have a habbit if chewing it out and it means a new head. also be very carefull when tighting the cam bolts i broke 2 off in my head.

hope this helps

brock

[lars]

Lars you have described exactly the same issues as my bike. very hard to start from cold, choke would kill it. But like JL said a push would do the trick and once warm was fine.

when i checked my clerences i had 0 cleerence on the same side as you. i gad a few engine issues after that but once i got it back together and ever since it has started on a dime.

get those clerences sorted and you should be sweet.

Make sure you inspect the no1 cylinder cam jurnal as they have a habbit if chewing it out and it means a new head. also be very carefull when tighting the cam bolts i broke 2 off in my head.

hope this helps

brock

Good to hear!
where can i findthe cam jurnal??? is that the other end as the sprockets?

[steve speed]

cam journal means cam bearings ,,make sure you use a torque wrench 10nm on cam caps

[brockzila]

thanks for the spelling correction steve. i know when i spell things wrong but i cant for the life of me figure out how to get them correct.

i used a torque wrench on mine, and still broke them off. i could feel it happening but was stupid enough to trust the torque wrench to click off. no click means broken bolt. two head gaskets and two trips to the recon shop i was not a happy camper.

in the end i replaced them with high tensile bolts. ended up costing me about 7 quid so its not much money for peace of mind. but i dont know of any one else has had my problem so its prob me just being heavy handed.

[steve speed]

are you using a proper calibrated torque wrench ? it needs to be ,,mine is a 10mm drive sealey that goes from 2nm to 24nm

[idl1975]

are you using a proper calibrated torque wrench ? it needs to be ,,mine is a sealey that goes from 2nm to 24nm

Could also be a bolt that was already buggered. If the head starts shearing the wrench won't neccessarily click, and then 'ping'.

I agree - definitely a good idea not to test the accuracy of a cheap 1/2" drive torque wrench on a small fastener though.