Oil Usage + Valve Clearances

[dbanbery]

mine seems to use a bit of oil. i'v ridden it about 1k and its used probably a litre at least. is this bad? there is a little squirt of black smoke when you fist it when its ticking over [not on bike riding] and it sounds a bit tickety. i've been told that doing valve clearances is a cams out job. the bike has done 26k so will it be ready for this doing? or is it on its way to being shagged? it runs fine when running, just a bit tickety between 3k and 5k accellerating and on overrun. [dont know about above that because it gets louder].

[youngy]

black smoke is likely to be emulsion tubes needing replacing, not oil.

your oil usage is about normal for alot of TRXs but don't let the level get low. check and top up after every ride. low oil level WILL wreck your big end bearings.

adjusting clearances is a cams out job, checking clearances is not. It is due at 26000 miles, but probably needed doing 10000 miles ago.

[steve speed]

black smoke when you fist it ??????? on its way to being shagged ?????????

[Killerwhale]

black smoke when you fist it ??????? on its way to being shagged ?????????

Ahhh, fisting.....

[idl1975]

black smoke when you fist it ??????? on its way to being shagged ?????????

Ahhh, fisting.....

Based on the pic, he has tiny, delicate, well-lubricated hands!



I wish I could do that - the TY probably needs a de-coke.

[dbanbery]

so would it be wise to do the clearances myself? i'm not scared of taking things apart, but i dont want to knacker it if its one of those "easy to start but impossible to get right" sort of things.

Emulsion tubes?

thats a carbs out job huh? can do that when i can be arsed..

[steve speed]

download the manual , read it ,if your not to sure of how to do it , you will need quite a few tools and patience,,,thats if you can be arsed

[brockzila]

dude ifyou are conf. pulling things apart then its not hard at all. your normal tool kit a torque wrench and a haynes manual and you will be fine. its not rocket science. common sence take your time., pull it apart on sunday order the new shims on monday, reassemble on saturday, ride it on sunday.

[steve speed]

^^^wot he said^^^^ ,, the torque wrench needs to be accurate for the cam cap bolts , i think they are 10nm

[brockzila]

yes they are 10mm and have to be torqued to 10nm. its tricky to get in to them with a big 1/2 inch torque rench as the support where the therm housing gets in the way. try and get a 3/8 wrench if you can.

[dbanbery]

well i already have a 1/2 inch torque wrench but i can get my hands on a smaller one easy. arent i better just replacing all shims or are the offensively expensive? to be fair if its supposed to be done at 10k i can look through the history to see the last time it was done, but is it wise just to replace all of them anyways? and is there anything else that will need replacing as well as the shims?

Yes i know i should just get a haynes manual and do it LOL. i'd just rather get a lot of info off the nuts about the idiosyncracies of doing this first, rather than getting stuck 1/2 way through.

with the gearbox being where it is is it necessary to drain the oil?

[brockzila]

no as its only the rocker cover you need to pull off.

you wont be able to do it with out the manual as the boys on here are not going to give you a step by step.

i had to replace my head and just played with the two sets of shims to get every thing i needed.
its not a case of just replacing the shims with new ones. you need to measure the clearance, pull the cams out and check the shim fitted, and do a small calucation and figure out the shim needed to set the clearance to with in spec. you may be able to play around and only replace a couple to get the job done. down load the manual. look in the members download section and get the manual fron there. have a read abd try figure it out for your self.

[dbanbery]

i wasnt asking for a step by step, i'm not that cheeky. i just wanted to know more about it before i jump into it.

[going to get manual now]

[youngy]

well i already have a 1/2 inch torque wrench but i can get my hands on a smaller one easy. arent i better just replacing all shims or are the offensively expensive? to be fair if its supposed to be done at 10k i can look through the history to see the last time it was done, but is it wise just to replace all of them anyways? and is there anything else that will need replacing as well as the shims?

Yes i know i should just get a haynes manual and do it LOL. i'd just rather get a lot of info off the nuts about the idiosyncracies of doing this first, rather than getting stuck 1/2 way through.

with the gearbox being where it is is it necessary to drain the oil?

what I said was 10k ago. Yamah spec 26k miles, but they generally get too tight way earlier.

why would you want to replace all the shims? with what?

Until you have checked the clearances, you don't know which are in spec and which are out of spec. Then if there are any out of spec you have to remove the cam, and each bucket, to check the size of each out of spec shim, then calculate from the clearance and the existing shim what the new shim needs to be. See? RTFM