Normal engine temp & valve clearences?

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inept
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Normal engine temp & valve clearences?

Post by inept » Wed Jan 16, 2008 4:33 am

Just curious to know what temperature the engine should be running at fully warmed up on a summers day?

It's about 28 to 30 degrees outside atm and I've yet to see my temp gauge go higher than 70 degrees, is this okay? Never seen the fan kick in either...
Last edited by inept on Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Kevtrx849
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Post by Kevtrx849 » Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:08 am

G'day and welcome to the site. Temp gauge won't move a whole lot until you get caught in traffic. Fan will kick in around the 100 mark. All normal.
See you around, whereabouts in Bris are you? Most of us are in Logan area.
If everything seems under control
your just not going fast enough.
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Post by inept » Wed Jan 16, 2008 6:51 am

Thanks bud, I thought there might be something wrong with the guage/sensor. Spose being semi-naked I'd expect it to run cooler than my Blackbird (90-100 degrees).

I'm at Sunnybank and ride a black/red framed rex. Good to see so many Aussies on the board!

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Quan-Time
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Post by Quan-Time » Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:15 pm

/wave from adelaide !

Yer, theres a bunch of us on here.

I notice my temp is ~80deg is heavy traffic, does hit higher with the summer sun, but cools down to ~65ish once i start moving freely.. Never had an over heating problem.

Make sure you use good quality coolant aswell. Change it out once a year, or depending on KM traveled.

I also dont mix, i use raw tectalloy coolant.
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Post by inept » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:26 pm

Quan-Time wrote:I notice my temp is ~80deg is heavy traffic, does hit higher with the summer sun, but cools down to ~65ish once i start moving freely.. Never had an over heating problem.
Yep, mine does that as well. As an experiment I revved the engine @ 2000rpm for a couple of minutes and managed to hit 100deg and the fan kicked in at which point it dropped straight back to 80deg. Boy they make the cooling system good on these :shock:

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Inept

Post by kenmore » Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:49 pm

I've ridden trixie under very hot conditions and agree that the cooling system is very good.I've only had the fan cut in once and that was on an extremely hot day when stopped for some time in very heavy traffic.I was thinking that the fan/thermostat was faulty,but now believe that because I don't ride in trafic very much that the cooling system is more than up to the task unless stationary for some time in heavy trafic.How long have you owned your bike?I,ve had mine for 10 months and am still learning more every time I go for a ride.I live on the south coast of NSW.
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Post by inept » Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:03 am

Kenmore, exactly you understand why I thought something was wrong with it.

I've had the bike all off 2 weeks now and am slowly learning about the mechanics of it. So far I've changed the oil/filter and front sprocket, next on the list is to check/replace the CCT, valve clearences and probably have a go at the head bearings. Wish me luck :?

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Post by Quan-Time » Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:57 am

Head bearings eh.. get the nice tapered ones.

Also get some "blue spot" brakes for the front and your lever of choice (many use R6 master cylinders, R1 also works, but a touch more expensive i believe). Also get some nice braided lines.. Makes the front end much more responsive under braking.

Get a K&N air filter if you havnt got one already for your air box.. Not really needed, but does help a touch (and i hate buying heaps of replacable ones, i live in a really dusty area.. So i just get the air compressor + light oil, works best for me)
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Post by kenmore » Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:58 pm

Pardon my ignorance,but what is cct?In relation to valve clearances I,ve read a lot about that subject on this forum and have come to the conclusion that if the trixie starts easy,runs clean without any popping or backfiring on the over run that i,m going to try and leave mine alone.My bike now has 21,000k on it, and the previous owner looked after it well with regular servicing and kept it immaculate.When I get to 24,000ks if it sounds ok Iwill probably leave the valves alone,but then knowing me my brain will keep reminding me that the workshop manual says to check/adjust valves then.One bit of advice that I can give you is that if you replace your Spark Plugs be prepared for some fun as this would have to be the worst bike that I,ve done this to.The only thing that was good about it is that I wont have to do this again for some time.Good luck and welcome to the fold.
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youngy

Post by youngy » Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:00 am

Cam Chain Tensioner.

Plugs? Piece of piss.

Checking clearances isn't too difficult, adjusting them is a pain.

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Post by kenmore » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:33 pm

Peice of piss compared to what?.I,ve owned the following bikes
1)Honda 50 step through
2)Kawasaki KX125
3)Honda CR125 Elsinore
4)Yamaha RD350(Had 2 of these )
5)Yamaha RD400
6)Honda 350 Twin
7)Triumph Daytona 500
8)Yamaha RD250LC
9)Suzuki PE250
10)SuzukiTM400
11)Yamaha XS650B
12)Suzuki GT750 Waterbottle
!3)Suzuki TS250EX
14)Kawasaki KLX250
15)Kawasaki Z1R MK11
16)Suzuki GSXR750K
17)Ducati Paso906
18)Ducati750SS
19)Yamaha FZR1000
20)Suzuki 750 Intruder(It was cheep at the time)
21)Yamaha WR450F
I,ve missed some bikes but as you can see I,ve owned a few and think that I changed the plugs on most of these bikes at some time whilst I owned them,and still say that to change the plugs on Trixie was not easy.
Maybe I did it the hard way,but I did follow the instuctions in the workshop manual.
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Post by Tarwetijger » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:42 pm

:P Changing plugs must be something similar to the FZR1000! Removing the fairing and radiator, that kind of stuff. :?:
I also have to change the plugs of my TRX, but I'm used to Yamaha's (FZR, YZF)... should I still be worried?

youngy

Post by youngy » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:48 pm

Much easier on the TRX. you only need to remove the bolts from the radiator brackets then you can push the rad away from the bike and get in behind it to the plugs. no need to touch the fairing. FZR is much worse.

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Post by kenmore » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:02 pm

Maybe i'm just lazy,but wichever way I look at it its a pain.Thank god I wont have to do it again for a while.Nice talking to you guys and cheers for now.
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Post by inept » Mon Jan 21, 2008 4:09 am

youngy wrote:Checking clearances isn't too difficult, adjusting them is a pain.
Once I've checked the clearences, would you recommend getting a pro to adjust them or give it a go myself?

Is there any major damage I can cause if I get it wrong?

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