Hi Dudes,How are you all?Do you have any good sugestions about suspension settings?mine goes all buckaroo into fast corners and i`ve never been one for knowing much about preload,rebound and all that crap!!!I`m on a budget here so no talk of ohlins or penske please...lol....
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
suspension settings?
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neilb
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This subject has been covered before. It might be worthwhile doing a search on this forum to get some ideas but here are some basics on standard suspension. First of all make sure that your standard suspension is in good condition (no leaks etc and the fork oil has been changed in the last 6 month or so). Now, set the loaded sag to 35mm front and 30mm rear. To do this lift the bike so the wheels are clear of the floor (one end at a time) Measure the distance from the bottom of the triple tree to the top of the fork slider (approx 140mm). Now measure the rear from the axle nut vertically to the edge of the side panel. Now, with the bike on the floor, get a mate to support the bike, get on the bike and assume your riding position and get another mate to measure again. Adjust the preload if needed on both ends to acheive the sag (free length - loaded length). Do a few checks to cater for stiction.
As Martin mentioned position 3 on the front rebound would be a good starting point.
Set the rear shock to standard Comp/Rebound settings and go for a ride. Follow the below to adjust in 5-10 click segments.
LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins to wallow and weave through bumpy corners.
This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tyre starts to chatter due to a lack of wheel control.
There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action.
TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
This creates an uneven ride. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the "feel" is vague.
Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension compliance).
The bike wants to run wide in corners since the rear end is "packing down"; this forces a nose-high chassis attitude, which slows down steering.
The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive corner entries.
LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
There is too much rear end "squat" under acceleration; the bike wants to steer wide exiting corners (since the chassis is riding rear low/nose high).
Hitting bumps at speed causes the rear to bottom out, which upsets the chassis.
The chassis attitude is affected too much by large dips.
Steering and control become difficult due to excessive suspension movement.
TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
The ride is harsh, though not quite as bad as too much rebound; the faster you go, the worse it gets, however.
Harshness hurts rear tyre traction over bumps, especially during deceleration. There's little rear end "squat" under acceleration.
Medium to large bumps are felt directly through the chassis; when hit at speed, the rear end kicks up.
Other than the above you start to get into modifications that has also been covered before (do a search)
Good luck.
Edit: Looks like Ash got in before me. On ya Ash.
As Martin mentioned position 3 on the front rebound would be a good starting point.
Set the rear shock to standard Comp/Rebound settings and go for a ride. Follow the below to adjust in 5-10 click segments.
LACK OF REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
The ride is plush at cruising speeds, but as the pace increases, the chassis begins to wallow and weave through bumpy corners.
This causes poor traction over bumps under hard acceleration; the rear tyre starts to chatter due to a lack of wheel control.
There is excessive chassis pitch through large bumps and dips at speed and the rear end rebounds too quickly, upsetting the chassis with a pogo-stick action.
TOO MUCH REBOUND DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
This creates an uneven ride. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the "feel" is vague.
Traction is poor over bumps during hard acceleration (due to lack of suspension compliance).
The bike wants to run wide in corners since the rear end is "packing down"; this forces a nose-high chassis attitude, which slows down steering.
The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive corner entries.
LACK OF COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
There is too much rear end "squat" under acceleration; the bike wants to steer wide exiting corners (since the chassis is riding rear low/nose high).
Hitting bumps at speed causes the rear to bottom out, which upsets the chassis.
The chassis attitude is affected too much by large dips.
Steering and control become difficult due to excessive suspension movement.
TOO MUCH COMPRESSION DAMPING (REAR SHOCK)
The ride is harsh, though not quite as bad as too much rebound; the faster you go, the worse it gets, however.
Harshness hurts rear tyre traction over bumps, especially during deceleration. There's little rear end "squat" under acceleration.
Medium to large bumps are felt directly through the chassis; when hit at speed, the rear end kicks up.
Other than the above you start to get into modifications that has also been covered before (do a search)
Good luck.
Edit: Looks like Ash got in before me. On ya Ash.
Once a TRX lover, always a TRX lover.
