Finally ordered some Factory pro emulsion tubes, but....

PhatVR6 · Post by **PhatVR6** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:12 pm

not new needles, just the tubes...for now.

can't see the point in changing the plastic bits, they aren't meant to be a tight fit by the looks of them, and even new ones aren't going to stop the needles flapping about.

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:35 am

can you post us a picture of the worn tubes ?i think your right about the plastic bits,, what size are main jets ?are you useing dynojet needles

PhatVR6 · Post by **PhatVR6** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 1:42 pm

will get a pic of both sets of needles in a minute. not s clue ont he sizes, they were already on the carbs when my mate gave me them, he had them on his TDM.

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 4:18 pm

i have just come across some more info in the Haynes manual it shows a the jet needle and it goes, clip, white plastic washer 2.5mm, then steel washer, which is .5mm thick ,,but in the download manual from this site the .5 washer is on top of the white one this means the Haynes way your setting the needle higher ,i.e richer Haynes also says 2.5 turns for the pilot screw ,but the download manual says 2 turns so it seems that if you set up by the Haynes book your richer on the bottom end or do these setting make no differance??what have you guys done ?

youngy · Post by **youngy** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 4:42 pm

not paying too much attention to the Haynes generic book of lies is your best course of action.

PhatVR6 · Post by **PhatVR6** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:44 pm

well, it idles smoother, sounds LOADS better, feels quicker, but still has horrible on-off throttle jerkiness, still baulks if you snap the throttle open, pops like hell on the over run, and nigh on stalls when you go to pull away unless you give it loads of clutch slip and throttle.

turns out the old emulsion tubes weren't actually that bad. the one's in the dyno jetted carbs carbs I rebuild and fitted were well worn, but the one's I've took off have obviously been replaced at some stage.

again, the carb float bowls were full of red muck, so i'm now thinking this is coming from the inside of the tank (is it rust?), and the fuel tap may be blocked a little. either way, that shouldn't cause these awful running issues. It really is awful to ride at anything other than full throttle. Bit gutted really as i was expecting all this to be sorted with Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£50 on some sodding brass tubes.

Needles next? i did notice that the needles were a totally different shape, so I'm guessing the dyno jetted ones have different needles in them.

PhatVR6 · Post by **PhatVR6** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:59 pm

these are the worn out tubes from the carbs i've rebuilt. you can clearly see the ovalisation of the holes.

and these are the ones out of the carbs on the bike

serious wear on the needles

bowls full of filth on both carbs

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:18 pm

i just set my floats up they were well out one was 12mm the other 13mm factory pro say 14mm so this is what Ive done Ive also set it all up to the download manual my tubes should be here soon so we will see , but the on/off throttle you have i also have and its not good i hope some expert will step up and advice

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:48 pm

@ phatvr6

that red dust in bowl, looks like you been riding across the nulaboring in australia !! that stuff gets EVERYWHERE.. you only need one batch of dirty fuel to screw up.. and that stuff in the bowl suggests thats why the needles are screwed..

good investment..

PS: clean ya bloody fingernails !