Just got to work this morning to find oil weeping from the back of the alternator cover and from what's been posted above it would seem that i have an issue with the oil seal on the output shaft.How difficult a fix is this to replace?
trx burning oil
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Doyle171
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youngy
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TonyDevil
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my TRX is using approx 1litre of oil for 800miles
short runs seem to use more, and its smokes a little if reving before the engine has properly warmed up (20mins or so)
heres a post i made on the S10 forum and is based from testing on my TDM, XTZ & TRX
short runs seem to use more, and its smokes a little if reving before the engine has properly warmed up (20mins or so)
heres a post i made on the S10 forum and is based from testing on my TDM, XTZ & TRX
from testing they seem to burn oil when cruising at over 4.5k rpm
reving up to and beyond the red line doesnt seem to affect the oil consumption, its only sustained cruising at those speeds
TRX850 1997 - sunny day twisty toy
TDM900 2003 - commuting tool
TDM850 mk1 - scratching & touring
Z750 hardtail - project
gone but not forgotten : - XTZ750, GS500, GS125
TDM900 2003 - commuting tool
TDM850 mk1 - scratching & touring
Z750 hardtail - project
gone but not forgotten : - XTZ750, GS500, GS125
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Trixz
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Hi Scottie and WELCOME 
Your REX does now how to 'consume'
But 35.000mls and then looking like THAT, wow, nice job done by the previous owner (or is it you
)
Mine does about one litre to 4000km, with a diversity in riding style over that 4000km's.
It's normal that these 5valves engines 'use' some oil, maybe you can use some other oil and see how he/she 'swallows' that
Greetz
Gerben
Your REX does now how to 'consume'
But 35.000mls and then looking like THAT, wow, nice job done by the previous owner (or is it you
)Mine does about one litre to 4000km, with a diversity in riding style over that 4000km's.
It's normal that these 5valves engines 'use' some oil, maybe you can use some other oil and see how he/she 'swallows' that
Greetz
Gerben
Former TRX rider ...former TRX of The Month owner June 2007 ánd May 2009... -and RC51 track bike *and crashing it* past-owner-
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scottie
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scottie
Re: ..
so av u honed the barrels,changed rings,valves and seals.how expensive r we talking if u don't mind me asking and did u do the work yourself,cheersBiffidus wrote:kebab19 wrote:So......replacement of all the Inlet valves AND replacing the valve guide oil seals should slow down oil consumption considerably
I did all that to mine - it was an expensive fix but she runs sweet now.
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burty
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Mine uses at least the specified 1litre in 1000 miles that Yamaha suggest is acceptable.
I replaced the seal on the output shaft (no change)
I bought a set of cylinders and head from ebay supposedly off a fairly low mileage engine. I rebuilt the head with new valve stem oil seals, and honed the bores and fitted new rings. It's still as bad as it was. But it runs much better, and is a lot quieter so it wasn't a complete waste.
Before honing the bores you could still see the original honing marks. There was no significant wear present, but they were (just) outside the official spec for size as quoted in the Yamaha manual. I wondered if I should have them bored and fit new pistons, but the advice I had at the time from the engineer was to hone and fit with new rings. Which is what I did. I think probably it would have been better to have rebored.
Oil burning is a common complaint although some engines just don't seem to. Yamaha clearly expects these engines to go through a bit.
Mine smokes blue a bit if you rev it when cold, I never notice really when running but then I'm looking the other way.
After 35000 miles I would have thought a top end rebuild would be worthwhile.
Biggest cost is in Gaskets. I forget how much they cost me. I bought proper Yamaha stuff and it was in the £200 mark I think. Rings were £35 a set if I recall correctly. You can get pattern top end gasket sets for under £100 with valve seals. Honing is likely to cost you up to £10 per barrel. Rebores a bit more, then you have to factor in the cost of pistons.
Doing it yourself I think you could do the whole thing for £300-400, or less depending on how tight (careful) you are.
I replaced the seal on the output shaft (no change)
I bought a set of cylinders and head from ebay supposedly off a fairly low mileage engine. I rebuilt the head with new valve stem oil seals, and honed the bores and fitted new rings. It's still as bad as it was. But it runs much better, and is a lot quieter so it wasn't a complete waste.
Before honing the bores you could still see the original honing marks. There was no significant wear present, but they were (just) outside the official spec for size as quoted in the Yamaha manual. I wondered if I should have them bored and fit new pistons, but the advice I had at the time from the engineer was to hone and fit with new rings. Which is what I did. I think probably it would have been better to have rebored.
Oil burning is a common complaint although some engines just don't seem to. Yamaha clearly expects these engines to go through a bit.
Mine smokes blue a bit if you rev it when cold, I never notice really when running but then I'm looking the other way.
After 35000 miles I would have thought a top end rebuild would be worthwhile.
Biggest cost is in Gaskets. I forget how much they cost me. I bought proper Yamaha stuff and it was in the £200 mark I think. Rings were £35 a set if I recall correctly. You can get pattern top end gasket sets for under £100 with valve seals. Honing is likely to cost you up to £10 per barrel. Rebores a bit more, then you have to factor in the cost of pistons.
Doing it yourself I think you could do the whole thing for £300-400, or less depending on how tight (careful) you are.
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Biffidus
Re: ..
I got my local bike shop to do it - I'm happy to change the oil and check valve clearances but I leave the rest to a professional.scottie wrote:so av u honed the barrels,changed rings,valves and seals.how expensive r we talking if u don't mind me asking and did u do the work yourself,cheers
It cost AU$1600 all up and that included new valve guides - that involves acid dipping the head and repainting it afterwards. It runs sweet now, almost seems a shame to sell her!
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dfh
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Little bit more recent oil burn/ head job/ hone & rings job info here http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1826
Step #1 however would be an oil & filter change. TRX's love heavier (15w50) mineral oil. Run light grade (05w/30) synthetics and it will drink it up and the gearbox will feel like an old Guzzi...
Cheers DFH
Step #1 however would be an oil & filter change. TRX's love heavier (15w50) mineral oil. Run light grade (05w/30) synthetics and it will drink it up and the gearbox will feel like an old Guzzi...
Cheers DFH
Now with 140,000 on the clocks, X-mas tree didn't kill it & I still love it.
But why....?-
Biffidus
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scottie
thanks for the info dfhdfh wrote:Little bit more recent oil burn/ head job/ hone & rings job info here http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1826
Step #1 however would be an oil & filter change. TRX's love heavier (15w50) mineral oil. Run light grade (05w/30) synthetics and it will drink it up and the gearbox will feel like an old Guzzi...
Cheers DFH
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Trixz
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wow Burty...