Suppliers of aftermarket parts to raise bars
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Bishboshbang
- TRX-Enthusiast
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 12:23 pm
Suppliers of aftermarket parts to raise bars
I have done the Streetfighter thing many times before on various bikes. Fabricating and Welding up my own parts etc, so it’s not a new thing by any means.
But I need to fit high bars to the TRX and it needs to be quick simple, not expensive and pref bolt on. I am not out to make a Streetfighter or a show bike; I just want a more practical bike for slow city riding.
I have done a search on here and many other web sites but it still does not answer the following questions I have.
My first assumption is TDM donor parts?
Which cables, wiring needs extending for a medium height Renthal bar
Clutch (I am aware of Div 600 and TDM cables)
Throttle
Switch Gear wiring
Front brake lines
Rather then fabricate a surround for the clocks which other naked Yam clocks would fit ( RD, XJ, FJ etc ) that has an electrical rev counter and mechanical correct ratio Speedo.
Top Yokes
Once again I am not making a showbike, so practical and cheap. I have looked at the adapters that fit to the top of the forks that accept 7/8 bars. At £30 they seem ideal, but the spacing looks to far apart for Renthals.
Outside of this, has anyone drilled the top yoke for risers ? I can source another top yoke from a friends breakers if need be.
Headlamps
Unless there is something more practical and cheap, it will either be standard fork to bates mounts or a standard 70's 7 inch fork mounted headlamp.
If I missed anything on the search then do forgive me. This is prob a common question. But I must stress that I am looking for practical use not a full blown streetfighter. Plus it all needs to go back to standard come the time it is sold on.
Cheers
But I need to fit high bars to the TRX and it needs to be quick simple, not expensive and pref bolt on. I am not out to make a Streetfighter or a show bike; I just want a more practical bike for slow city riding.
I have done a search on here and many other web sites but it still does not answer the following questions I have.
My first assumption is TDM donor parts?
Which cables, wiring needs extending for a medium height Renthal bar
Clutch (I am aware of Div 600 and TDM cables)
Throttle
Switch Gear wiring
Front brake lines
Rather then fabricate a surround for the clocks which other naked Yam clocks would fit ( RD, XJ, FJ etc ) that has an electrical rev counter and mechanical correct ratio Speedo.
Top Yokes
Once again I am not making a showbike, so practical and cheap. I have looked at the adapters that fit to the top of the forks that accept 7/8 bars. At £30 they seem ideal, but the spacing looks to far apart for Renthals.
Outside of this, has anyone drilled the top yoke for risers ? I can source another top yoke from a friends breakers if need be.
Headlamps
Unless there is something more practical and cheap, it will either be standard fork to bates mounts or a standard 70's 7 inch fork mounted headlamp.
If I missed anything on the search then do forgive me. This is prob a common question. But I must stress that I am looking for practical use not a full blown streetfighter. Plus it all needs to go back to standard come the time it is sold on.
Cheers
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PhatVR6
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mark1971
i bought the streetfighter store extended clutch cable off ebay for 10 quid as they trade on there too. it came next day but i'm not sure it was even for the trx as it was about 14" too long and that is with medium rise renthals....take care. I ended up buying a universal clutch cable from my local bike shop and making my own cable to the exact length i needed.
Mark
Mark
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Bishboshbang
- TRX-Enthusiast
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 12:23 pm
I have the clutch cable. I found a new unused DIV 600 one that is perfect
The most important thing at present is how short are the throttle and switchgear cables. I need to do the changeover in one hit. So having all the parts to hand prior to starting would be handy.
But what puzzles me more then anything, is why no one has used TDM stuff ? The bars on the TDM are fairly high , so I assume the TDM would made a great donor.
The most important thing at present is how short are the throttle and switchgear cables. I need to do the changeover in one hit. So having all the parts to hand prior to starting would be handy.
But what puzzles me more then anything, is why no one has used TDM stuff ? The bars on the TDM are fairly high , so I assume the TDM would made a great donor.
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Hughietheharp
- TRX-Enthusiast
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 3:54 pm
- Location: Stratford upon Avon, UK
Not sure if you are still interested but I've just fitted a TRX850 "comfort kit"kit from Motorrad-Depner in Germany see http://www.motorrad-depner.de
Including shipping the kit worked out at about £215.
Kit includes new top yoke, risers, handlebars, new braided lines, cable for horn and appropriate fasteners. I fitted it one day a few weeks ago and everything was fine. Although a day sounds like a long time you will find there is quite a bit of fiddling around removing the tank etc so that you can re-route cables etc etc. It's not difficult, just time consuming.
I've kept the standard fairing which needed cutting back to the point where the mirrors join to the fairing sub-frame. The standard clutch cable would just about work but I decided to get a replacement made up by Venhill which cost £35 including shipping. Oh and I welded a small tab to the existing lock stop on the headstock to stop the clutch and brake levers touching the fairing on full lock I assumed that without doing this, it would potentially mean an MOT failure?
I'm chuffed to bits with the conversion brought on by my ever expanding waistline! Was over in France last week for 4 days and I really enjoyed the far more upright riding position. The fairing still does a decent job of pushing the wind around me. I'll post some pictures when I get round to digging out the camera.
Including shipping the kit worked out at about £215.
Kit includes new top yoke, risers, handlebars, new braided lines, cable for horn and appropriate fasteners. I fitted it one day a few weeks ago and everything was fine. Although a day sounds like a long time you will find there is quite a bit of fiddling around removing the tank etc so that you can re-route cables etc etc. It's not difficult, just time consuming.
I've kept the standard fairing which needed cutting back to the point where the mirrors join to the fairing sub-frame. The standard clutch cable would just about work but I decided to get a replacement made up by Venhill which cost £35 including shipping. Oh and I welded a small tab to the existing lock stop on the headstock to stop the clutch and brake levers touching the fairing on full lock I assumed that without doing this, it would potentially mean an MOT failure?
I'm chuffed to bits with the conversion brought on by my ever expanding waistline! Was over in France last week for 4 days and I really enjoyed the far more upright riding position. The fairing still does a decent job of pushing the wind around me. I'll post some pictures when I get round to digging out the camera.
Last edited by Hughietheharp on Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
- Tarwetijger
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Old message but good question!Bishboshbang wrote:8< But what puzzles me more then anything, is why no one has used TDM stuff ? The bars on the TDM are fairly high , so I assume the TDM would made a great donor.
Is the fork of the TDM different in measurements or something, that the yoke won't fit on a TRX?
- Max
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- burty
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The TDM clutch cable I bought for mine didn't fit at the clutch end, but there may be variation through the TDM range that means some might work.
Standard Throttle cables work OK, you just have to turn the throttle grip through 180 degrees so the cables exit at the bottom rather than the top (Just like they do on the TDM
) It may be necessary to route the cables the other side of the headstock (I can't remember). All the switchgear cables work OK as standard, but you may have to pay attention to routing again. The only exception is the horn cable which is way too short if you want to keep the horn in the same location, but extending it is a Piece of piss.
Personally I wouldn't drill the yoke myself, I didn't think it appropriate given the fact that it is a casting although it has been done by some. Those risers that fit the top of the bars seem a good idea to me. Otherwise there are billet yokes available rom LSL and ABM but they are fairly costly new. I'd wager TDM yokes are unsuitable as enough people have converted to something similar and I've never heard of anyone using a TDM yoke.
Standard Throttle cables work OK, you just have to turn the throttle grip through 180 degrees so the cables exit at the bottom rather than the top (Just like they do on the TDM
Personally I wouldn't drill the yoke myself, I didn't think it appropriate given the fact that it is a casting although it has been done by some. Those risers that fit the top of the bars seem a good idea to me. Otherwise there are billet yokes available rom LSL and ABM but they are fairly costly new. I'd wager TDM yokes are unsuitable as enough people have converted to something similar and I've never heard of anyone using a TDM yoke.
