Skimming discs

John M · Post by **John M** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:29 am

rjen wrote: Quirks? Well it took me a while to get the proper clutch control needed at very low speeds/pulling away due to the tall 1st gear. I hate slipping it but it seems the only way to ride it smoothly below 10km/h or while pulling a U-turn. The only other is that when it runs of petrol on 'ON' and you switch it to 'PRI' you have to crank the engine for ages to get it to start again!

Re gearing, sounds like it has the standard setup (17/39 from memory) which is widely regarded as too tall especially 'round town. The easy/ regulation fix is to go to a 16 tooth for the front, which greatly relieves the need to slip the clutch on take up and just as importantly removes most of the 'snatch' in slow manouvering, roundabouts etc. Otherwise changing to a bigger rear- 41 or bigger is preferred by many to the 16/39 option- will give the desired effect of lower overall gearing. Side benefit is better acceleration. This cool gearing calculator posted by earywig will tell you what you get from the different options: http://www.xs4all.nl/~ator0437/gc/
As for the fuelling i've not heard of this problem. You should be able to flick from 'on' to 'res' at the first signs of starvation and be powering on within seconds. I'd start by checking the fuel tap for grunge but I'm sure the clevor trevers here have other (even better) suggestions.

burty · Post by **burty** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 2:16 pm

If you run out of fuel, and empty the carbs as a consequence, it can take a while for enough fuel to fill the float chambers sufficiently. It can take fair bit of cranking in my experience. I think this may be due to the fact that the fuel has to be pumped to flow.

Best approach has to be not to run out of fuel in the first place. Switching from On to Res at the first stutter, or sooner, can be done on the move.

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 6:59 pm

it is my understanding that if you turn the fuel tap to prime this should fill the carbs without the need to run the engine or is this not correct

Post by **Max** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:36 pm

As long as the fuel level is higher than the carbs' float bowls.

burty · Post by **burty** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:23 am

Max wrote:As long as the fuel level is higher than the carbs' float bowls.

Which it may well not be if you have run your fuel level low enough to have to switch to reserve.

In any event, the pressure due to the head of fuel is going to be minimal. I'll bet that without cranking, it would take a while.

Simple Answer: Don't run the bike that low on fuel

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:39 am

burty wrote:I would describe the brakes on my TRX as having a wooden feel.

I'm running Bluespots, braided lines and an R1 master cylinder. The master cylinder made a big difference in feel over the TRX master cylinder. Feel is excellent, and they are far more effective than the TRX standard calipersm but it does feel like the pad/disc interface isn't making the best of it.

I just fitted a set of brakes from a new FZ1 (master cylinder, hoses, calipers (silver spots)

and pads). To be honest I can't believe the difference over the standard m/c and calipers! Brakes now feel solid, much more effective. Glad I made the switch.

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 1:48 pm

did the same to mine some time ago ,but the std master cylinder is 5/8" which is a bit to big and the std master cylinder on the R1 is 14mm and this is the size you need with blue spots have a look on the HEL BRAKES web site there is loads of info there

Killerwhale · Post by **Killerwhale** » Sun Mar 04, 2007 2:02 pm

rjen wrote:
burty wrote:I would describe the brakes on my TRX as having a wooden feel.

I'm running Bluespots, braided lines and an R1 master cylinder. The master cylinder made a big difference in feel over the TRX master cylinder. Feel is excellent, and they are far more effective than the TRX standard calipersm but it does feel like the pad/disc interface isn't making the best of it.
I just fitted a set of brakes from a new FZ1 (master cylinder, hoses, calipers (silver spots) and pads). To be honest I can't believe the difference over the standard m/c and calipers! Brakes now feel solid, much more effective. Glad I made the switch.

Interesting! Much hassle to fit??

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:18 am

Killerwhale wrote:
rjen wrote:
burty wrote:I would describe the brakes on my TRX as having a wooden feel.

I'm running Bluespots, braided lines and an R1 master cylinder. The master cylinder made a big difference in feel over the TRX master cylinder. Feel is excellent, and they are far more effective than the TRX standard calipersm but it does feel like the pad/disc interface isn't making the best of it.
I just fitted a set of brakes from a new FZ1 (master cylinder, hoses, calipers (silver spots) and pads). To be honest I can't believe the difference over the standard m/c and calipers! Brakes now feel solid, much more effective. Glad I made the switch.
Interesting! Much hassle to fit??

Not really. Took me about 3hrs. Calipers were bolt straight on. Hose mounting had to be changed as the hose mounting piece (hose splitting part) is different to the original setup. This is now mounted to one of the horn mount holes with the horn mounted on top. Hose t-piece sits tidily under the bottom of the steering head.
The worst part was the master cyl with integrated 'coffin type' resevoir has an integrated mount for a mirror. This mirror mount had to ground back to allow enough room for the switchgear and throttle. I really wanna tidy that up a little but that's a job for another day. The throttle body also had to be twisted around a little more on the clip-on so that the thottle cables can route in front of the 'coffin'.
Obviously the coffin type resevoir doesn't look as trick as the race type cylinder but it does give a very clean look.
I can post pictures if anyone is interested?

John M · Post by **John M** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 3:56 am

rjen wrote:
Killerwhale wrote:
rjen wrote: I just fitted a set of brakes from a new FZ1 (master cylinder, hoses, calipers (silver spots) and pads). To be honest I can't believe the difference over the standard m/c and calipers! Brakes now feel solid, much more effective. Glad I made the switch.
Interesting! Much hassle to fit??
Not really. Took me about 3hrs. Calipers were bolt straight on. Hose mounting had to be changed as the hose mounting piece (hose splitting part) is different to the original setup. This is now mounted to one of the horn mount holes with the horn mounted on top. Hose t-piece sits tidily under the bottom of the steering head.
The worst part was the master cyl with integrated 'coffin type' resevoir has an integrated mount for a mirror. This mirror mount had to ground back to allow enough room for the switchgear and throttle. I really wanna tidy that up a little but that's a job for another day. The throttle body also had to be twisted around a little more on the clip-on so that the thottle cables can route in front of the 'coffin'.
Obviously the coffin type resevoir doesn't look as trick as the race type cylinder but it does give a very clean look.
I can post pictures if anyone is interested?

Bring on the pics rjen- always up for something new!

Triton · Post by **Triton** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 4:29 am

FZ-1 calipers are simply "bluespots" with silver instead of blue anodising on the piston caps. The standard master cylinder stuff is interesting - Rjen have you information on it (bore size, leverage ratio etc)?

Incidentally, the best 'feel' I've experienced with a TRX is with standard Sumitomo calipers with braided lines and SBS sintered pads. However lap times tell the truth and the bluespots are stronger over a string of laps as they don't fade as much. Interestingly, for road use I'm putting the originals back on - they've just been rebuilt.

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 4:52 am

Triton wrote:FZ-1 calipers are simply "bluespots" with silver instead of blue anodising on the piston caps. The standard master cylinder stuff is interesting - Rjen have you information on it (bore size, leverage ration etc)?

Yeah they are silver "bluespots". Seeing as my TRX has silver frame/engine then it looks a bit better than blue "bluespots" IMO.

No other information on it I'm afraid. Standard 2006 FZ-1 kit is all I know.

Pictures coming tomorrow.

Post by **Max** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:34 am

I still think my "Brembos" look better.

Triton likes his Sumitomos because they look like REALLY OLD Brembos.

Triton · Post by **Triton** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:58 am

Bayliss 38. Haga 32.

And the winner is? THE OLD FART! On a freakin' OLD Duck against an ultra-modern four-cylinder piece of guano made by?

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YAMAHA... sheeze. Senior moment over, don't hit me Max!

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:59 pm

There you go. In my rush this morning I forgot to take a pic of the mounting of the t-piece hose split. D'oh!

As you can see there still needs some tidying to be done of that remaining half of a mirror mount. I'll probably grind it right off and then re-spray.
While I had the throttle body off I gave the clip-on a good clean and a WD40 treatment. I did the same to the end of the throttle cables and the cable routes. The throttle was very free, easy and well lubed before but this WD40 treatment has improved things. It seems to have given the ability to make more subtle throttle actions, the engine responding to the very smallest of adjustment of the throttle. This really seems to help urban riding thru' traffic.
Still getting used to the brakes. They seemed pretty fierce for my commute this morning but I'm sure it's just a matter of mental adjustment. Maybe I could WD40 my brain as well?