Please share your secrets! What mods have you made to your TRX?
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drix
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by drix » Wed Jun 11, 2014 1:09 pm
Hi guys
My clutch passed away today… bite point barely at the end of the clutch lever release/pretty much non-existent, bike overrevving in 1st/2nd/3rd gear (didn't try 4th or 5th) before pulling off ever so lightly (bit like an automatic car

).
A Sigma slipper clutch for everyday use/town riding/maybe an odd track session might be overkill (or isn’t it?) so been looking around a little and noticed this kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SRK009-EBC-Co ... 51bbfffb98
Anyone used it and is it a worthwhile mod? Or should I just get some for some new clutch plates and maybe replace the standard clutch springs with something heavier perhaps? I haven’t opened up the clutch yet so don’t know the extent of the damage/wear.
Cheers
Adrien
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Silver
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by Silver » Wed Jun 11, 2014 2:40 pm
My track bike has been suffering slippage on corner exits for a while now. Fresh oil helps for a few sessions, so i decided to fit some uprated springs to no effect.
I have just fitted an ebc street racer kit with springs and kevlar plates and all seems to be well. Havent done a trackday yet but did a few miles on the road. It cost £107 all in and was cheaper direct from EBC. Good luck with the slipper. Phil (mrdimwiddy) had one and he liked it. I think he sold it on when he broke the bike.
Dave
PS i measured my original clutch plates and they were all virtually new thickness and the springs were the same. Bike is a 95 with unknown mileage.
Just checked your link and that is a kit including the steel plates, whch you prob wont need.
2010 Street triple R 675 Road bike
2018 BMW G310GS
1988 Honda XBR500(converting to GB500 spec)
SZR660 road and track project
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Silver
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by Silver » Wed Jun 11, 2014 2:47 pm
When you do the job, take the little circlip off the top of the operating arm and remove arm out of the way then the case comes off no problems, drain the oil first of course.
2010 Street triple R 675 Road bike
2018 BMW G310GS
1988 Honda XBR500(converting to GB500 spec)
SZR660 road and track project
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drix
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by drix » Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:04 pm
Silver wrote:When you do the job, take the little circlip off the top of the operating arm and remove arm out of the way then the case comes off no problems, drain the oil first of course.
Did an oil change 300miles ago...

can I put the same oil back in? Any specific tools needed? Yup, never done it before...
Cheers
A
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Killerwhale
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by Killerwhale » Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:06 pm
drix wrote:Silver wrote:When you do the job, take the little circlip off the top of the operating arm and remove arm out of the way then the case comes off no problems, drain the oil first of course.
Did an oil change 300miles ago...

can I put the same oil back in? Any specific tools needed? Yup, never done it before...
Cheers
A
I know at least one has actually put the bike on the side and then changed clutch without draining oil

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Tarwetijger
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by Tarwetijger » Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:27 pm
Silver wrote:My track bike has been suffering slippage on corner exits for a while now. Fresh oil helps for a few sessions, so i decided to fit some uprated springs to no effect.
I have just fitted an ebc street racer kit with springs and kevlar plates and all seems to be well. Havent done a trackday yet but did a few miles on the road. It cost £107 all in and was cheaper direct from EBC.
Is it the same kit from the link from Drix' his post (but cheaper)?
Such a kit should do the job I suppose.
Good luck with the slipper. Phil (mrdimwiddy) had one and he liked it. I think he sold it on when he broke the bike.
He did, to me. Not fitted yet.
Just checked your link and that is a kit including the steel plates, whch you prob wont need.
Oh that explains the price difference.
drix wrote:Silver wrote:When you do the job, take the little circlip off the top of the operating arm and remove arm out of the way then the case comes off no problems, drain the oil first of course.
Did an oil change 300miles ago...

can I put the same oil back in? Any specific tools needed? Yup, never done it before...
Some oil drips out, but not all of it. Just make sure to top it up again. Or leave it on the sidestand as Killerwhale suggests.
No specific tools needed, unless you need to remove the basket (or what's it called) too. But for replacing the plates and springs, this is not necessary.
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drix
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by drix » Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:53 am
The side stand thing worked

now let's get it all back in place as it should be

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drix
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by drix » Wed Jul 02, 2014 8:54 am
Right, all fitted back together and worked absolutely fine for about 10miles before the same clutch slip issue appeared again... Bite point is almost at the end of releasing the clutch lever and slip is in all gears.
Will take a look again but any ideas? When I removed the old discs, they were a little oily but didn't really pay much notice, could an oil leak be the cause, esp since new plates/discs worked fine for 10miles?
Thoughts welcome before I default to my local mechanics.
Cheers
Adrien
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Silver
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by Silver » Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:19 am
Adrien, There is oil in there all the time with the bike running. Its not a dry clutch. I wonder if the have a cable issue or maybe the actuator. Check you have the right number of plates/discs.
2010 Street triple R 675 Road bike
2018 BMW G310GS
1988 Honda XBR500(converting to GB500 spec)
SZR660 road and track project
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drix
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by drix » Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:40 am
That's what I thought too abt the clutch being a wet one. What throws me off is that it worked for 10miles fine dealing with full throttle accelerations before reverting back to the problem.
Both clutches, old&new, have the same of plates. Got another cable will try swapping that out to see what happens. What do you mean by actuator?
Cheers
A
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drix
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by drix » Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:37 pm
Well, swapped the cable out and played with the positioning of the operating arm but no luck... went for a spin down the road and bite is still far down the lever release/almost at the end of it. I noticed that on the first spin, the clutch has more grip than after a few rides up and down the road.
I noticed some uneven marks on the outside of the clutch basket though, not sure if this is normal?

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johnktm
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by johnktm » Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:35 am
Have you got little markers on the arm and the clutch cover lined up? lift the arm off the splines and rotate the shaft clockwise until all the free play is taken up,then slip on the arm with the marks lined up.
I did this on my old motor and it too behaved as yours has,all that was required was a readjustment of the cable when the engine was fully warmed up,there should be no real tension on the cable when the clutch lever is released.

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Silver
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by Silver » Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:40 am
By actuator i meant arm. It does sound like getting the arm in right position and cable adjusted correctly. Just a tiny bit of slack with clutch lever fully out. If you dont have any slack you may be pulling a bit of clutch with lever fully out.
All the best. Get it fixed while this great weather lasts!
2010 Street triple R 675 Road bike
2018 BMW G310GS
1988 Honda XBR500(converting to GB500 spec)
SZR660 road and track project
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drix
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by drix » Sun Jul 06, 2014 3:52 pm
All aligns, bit of slack in the cable yet same issue after a few miles... Slip in every gear, from 1st through to 5th!
I've given up so down to local mechanic it is to get it sorted... I wonder what the issue is but feel I may look dumb as it prob is a simple thing!

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Silver
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by Silver » Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:02 pm
Adrien, what oil are you using?, not car oil is it?
2010 Street triple R 675 Road bike
2018 BMW G310GS
1988 Honda XBR500(converting to GB500 spec)
SZR660 road and track project