Runs on one

[marmyr]

Hello Trixie fans
This is my first time out here
I own a -97 which is running on one cyl.
Sometimes it's runs perfect and sometimes not.
I've checked ignition so i thinks it's carburetor problems.
what's the usual problems on these carburetors ?

I would be very grateful for your help on this matter!

[Red Rex]

Suffered the same for a long time. Mine was constantly oiling up the RH plug (on the camchain side, the one that's a bugger to get out !).
New plugs solved the problem for a while but the eventual cure was a carburettor overhaul with new emulsion tubes, needles, jets etc.

[scottish Bloke]

I have had the same problem in the past.. turned out to be a broken wire between the cdi and the ignition coil.. i repaired it but more recently bought a second hand wiring loom as the original was past its best.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Just to correct you on 1 point ..
It’s a TCI ( transistor cool ignition ) not a CDI.( capacitor discharge ignition )
They work on 2 totally different principals.

[scottish Bloke]

Thanks I did not know that.. so it just sends a signal to the coil to fire it ?

[dicky]

A slight misspelling (but that wouldn't be Cobba if it was all correct) it is usually Transistor Coil Ignition, or sometimes Transistor Controlled Ignition.
It works by using a high power transistor inside the unit to switch the power on/off to the primary coil. With a constant current flowing through it the coil does nothing (other than get a bit hot!), but if you interrupt the current then it causes a large voltage change on the secondary coil which is what makes the plug spark. TCI's are very simple and stable, no parts that degrade over time (or at least not compared to CDI's)
Here endeth the lesson.

back to the original post.... you may have noticed that the replies have quickly turned to electrical problems, not carburetor problems.
This is probably due to the age old adage that 99% of carburetor problems are caused by the ignition (and no surprise, but the opposite also holds true).
These bikes are getting old and as with us things stop working properly.
It's well worth the peace of mind to go through the electricals to completely eliminate the usual suspects before pulling the carbs apart.
New plugs (of course you already did this), swap the plug leads around, even swap the coils around. It's probably worthwhile replacing the plug leads and caps while you're in there, maybe even the coils, they can be had for only a few bucks (at least here in Oz, I can get a brand new coil, lead and cap complete for less than $50).
If you do decide to pull the carbs apart LiteTek make a viton seal kit for the TRX carbs that is well worth the money (considering it costs very little and is excellent quality!)
Emulsion tubes and needles are covered in many threads, beware of replacing the needle as aftermarket parts often have a very different taper, making tuning a nightmare.
The RHS air-cut valve cover can perish and crack causing an air leak into the carbs. They can be had from Kedo.
All rubber parts are beginning to perish, worth replacing them while parts are still commonly available.