Fresher... Softer...

[wreckage]

TRX_Seat_Sm.png

Got my seat re-upholstered today. Fantastic! Hopefully longer rides won't leave me with that 'gotta stand up now' feeling.

[Snod Blatter]

That is interesting, let us know if it's any better over distance! Did you get the plastic base moulded a bit to help or is it still flat underneath?

[wreckage]

Hello, Snod Blatter.

The job was done by an old friend who does nothing but bike seats now, but in the past would upholster anything. the base hasn't been modified at all and I've been assured that there is a thick layer of 'top quality', firm foam topped with a thinner, slightly softer foam layer all encased in a premium-quality basket-weave vinyl. He advised that the ride would be somewhat firm for the first 1000 km and will soften up after that. There is about 1" increased height which is fine by me as I have long legs.

This is my first TRX and I must say that in my advancing years (58) I'm bloody lovin' it! I bought the thing on eBay (Australia) only a month ago and got a great deal. For two of those weeks I was very ill with a bad 'flu and this past week I've been away for a little holiday so not much riding has been done, unfortunately.

I hope to have some good chats with you guys 'n' gals re. the TRX and will most likely have many questions. I already have a couple, like what are the ideal jetting sizes for the standard carburetors (I have a fair lag, well, really a large jerk, between throttling on and off), and what do I need to do to get this oft-heard-about 100 hp out of the things?

Anyway.. I hope to find some interesting info here. G'day to you all.

[Snod Blatter]

Standard is fairly ideal if a bit rich, freer flowing cans and an air filter are a good match for it. One thing to watch out for with the fuelling is the emulsion tubes wearing oval and feeding too much fuel at low RPM, maybe 3K down. This can be pretty bad by 20K miles and very noticeable by 30K, the Dynojet stuff in mine is getting bad after only 10K! If it has sat around a long time though it may just be slightly blocked jets, it may get better with use.

100BHP is quite a target, anyone sane would buy an R6 (or whatever) for similar money and much less hassle, but you can always do it if you feel the need.

[alextrx850]

A few of us about in Brisbane Wreckage, might have a look at your chain adjustment if the power is snatchy on or off the throttle as well.

[Rod.s]

Buy a set of carb kits and rebuild them (very easy to do), fit a K&N filter, Cobba ignition and ride and enjoy

rod

[dicky]

The quickest and easiest way to get 100HP from a TRX is to take it to the local Yamaha dealer and trade it on an R6.
Not that I would recommend doing that. I love my TRX.

[wreckage]

Standard is fairly ideal if a bit rich

I am finding that there is a constant smell of petrol when near the bike. I have had a good tune-up but no jetting or dyno work, and am only getting about 190 klms around town before I have to resort to reserve. What sort of mileage do you reckon I should be getting? 10 k's per litre doesn't sound good to me.

freer flowing cans and an air filter are a good match for it.

it came with DanMoto mufflers. I've heard conflicting reports about them, but generally they're 'OK' for the money.

the emulsion tubes wearing oval and feeding too much fuel at low RPM

i haven't consulted the service manual yet and have no idea what these 'emulsion tubes' are yet.

100BHP is quite a target

Saw this in Wikipedia ; "In 2014, Steve Cooper wrote of the TRX: "Very much the thinking man's sports bike, this slightly oddball twin is beginning to reach cult status and for good reason; with a little work it's possible to see a genuine 100bhp..."

anyone sane would buy an R6

Bite your tongue! Sanity is over-rated.

Thanks for the tips!

[wreckage]

A few of us about in Brisbane...

G'day, alextrx850. Good to know... I may be in touch. Nah... it wasn't the chain. That's the first thing I adjusted. My bike mech. reckons it's jetting.

Cheers.

[Rod.s]

Standard is fairly ideal if a bit rich

I am finding that there is a constant smell of petrol when near the bike. I have had a good tune-up but no jetting or dyno work, and am only getting about 190 klms around town before I have to resort to reserve. What sort of mileage do you reckon I should be getting? 10 k's per litre doesn't sound good to me.

The fuel smell is most likely coming from you petrol tap, under the tap the main out let hose is a push in alloy "L" piece and ofter come loose after some fettling.

You should get 280k's ish till reserve IF you're needle is on the middle clip, up to 400k's if you drop the needle one clip.

freer flowing cans and an air filter are a good match for it.

it came with DanMoto mufflers. I've heard conflicting reports about them, but generally they're 'OK' for the money.

All aftermarket mufflers are an improvement over the original. Some better than others, tune to the muffler and air filter fitted.

the emulsion tubes wearing oval and feeding too much fuel at low RPM

i haven't consulted the service manual yet and have no idea what these 'emulsion tubes' are yet.

They are what the fuelling needle slides into to control the amount of fuel delivered at different throttle openings

100BHP is quite a target

Saw this in Wikipedia ; "In 2014, Steve Cooper wrote of the TRX: "Very much the thinking man's sports bike, this slightly oddball twin is beginning to reach cult status and for good reason; with a little work it's possible to see a genuine 100bhp..."

Posable at a $$$$ so the question is why? 100HP are you racing it touring or just got hold of you dick (tong in cheek)

anyone sane would buy an R6

Bite your tongue! Sanity is over-rated.

Thanks for the tips!

[Rod.s]

For the carb kit…….

http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au

[wreckage]

Buy a set of carb kits and rebuild them (very easy to do), fit a K&N filter, Cobba ignition and ride and enjoy

rod

G'day, Rod.s

Do you mean just standard Yammie kits from a dealer? Will this fix the throttle lag and the 'emulsion tubes' problem mentioned above?

Can you advise who might stock K&N filters and Cobba ignitions in Brizzo, and why I might need them?

Cheers.

[dandywarhol]

I found the combo of Yamaha needles and Factory Pro emulsion tubes to be good. The FP needles taper is probably more suited to track use. FP needle at the top



http://www.factorypro.com/

[Rod.s]

Buy a set of carb kits and rebuild them (very easy to do), fit a K&N filter, Cobba ignition and ride and enjoy

rod

G'day, Rod.s

Do you mean just standard Yammie kits from a dealer? Will this fix the throttle lag and the 'emulsion tubes' problem mentioned above?

Can you advise who might stock K&N filters and Cobba ignitions in Brizzo, and why I might need them?

Cheers.

PM sent………

[QuickDraw]

The "gotta-have" carb setup yet to be mentioned is a pair of Keihin 41mm flat-slides' to replace the CV's. Basically a bolt-on 10 hp. They'll liven things up no-end on a stock motor. Quite a few of us run those.

From there you need to go inside. 878 overbore kits are popular. Generally speaking though, to get 90 hp or better, it needs custom ground cams and headwork, which typically moves the power to a higher rev range. The fun factor for most TRX fans is in the great mid range torque. Most prefer 85 grunty hp over 95 peaky ones. Then there's the engine longevity issues to counter... stock internals will last forever this side of redline, but were never meant for 10000rpm.

That said, I myself am in the "peaky" category and will happily remain so (even if I do miss the oh-so-easily throttle wheelies)

I see Rod.s has sent you a PM. Those Ignition units that cobbadiggabuddyblooo sells are programmable. Everyone who's bought one so far raves about the smoother running and better response. (Note to Cobba': I'm still saving for mine mate! Need a new front tyre & a battery first! Who knows. Maybe the easy throttle-wheelies will come back! )

If there's one thing to know about a TRX it's this: WATCH YOUR OIL