Fresher... Softer...

[Rod.s]

The "gotta-have" carb setup yet to be mentioned is a pair of Keihin 41mm flat-slides' to replace the CV's. Basically a bolt-on 10 hp. They'll liven things up no-end on a stock motor. Quite a few of us run those.

From there you need to go inside. 878 overbore kits are popular.Generally speaking, to get 90 hp or better, it needs custom ground cams and headwork, which typically moves the power to a higher rev range. The fun factor for most TRX fans is in the great mid range torque. Most prefer 85 grunty hp than 95 peaky ones. Then there's the engine longevity issues to counter... stock internals will last forever this side of redline, but were never meant for 10000rpm.

That said, I myself am in the "peaky" category and will happily remain so (even if I do miss the oh-so-easily throttle wheelies)

Pardon for jumping in ahead of Rod; the Ignition units that cobbadiggabuddyblooo sells are programmable. Everyone who's bought one so far raves about the smoother running and better response. (Note to Cobba': I'm still saving for mine mate! Need a new front tyre & a battery first! )
Mate the ignition is awesome, you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner!

If there's one thing to know about a TRX it's this: WATCH YOUR OIL

………………….what he said

This is oh so true, "Most prefer 85 grunty hp than 95 peaky ones" these engines just love to rumble, so if you are riding mixed roads, city streets and a bit of track work the way forward may be to take advantage of the grunty torque.

Rod

Which ever way you go, a full service of the standard motor is the first step, then go from there. Simple things like a correct engine oil flush and new oil can make a world of difference.

Come on over and take my standard (except K&N and Cobba Ignition) bike for a ride, you'll be surprised how well it boogies

[pbear62]

re: the worn emulsion tubes mentioned earlier .....

I had the fuel smell & poor economy happening - after much info from the guys on here I sorted mine out with the
Factory Pro tubes BUT used genuine Yamaha needles. Fuel range went from 200km to approx. 320/340 on a tank.

Andy

[wreckage]

Wow... I can't believe how helpful and friendly you guys are. My head's swimming with all the great info. already. Thank-you all so much.

It seems to me that the first order of business is to fix my over-the-top fuel consumption. Would you all agree that the suggested carby kits from Motorcycle Spares Warehouse is the way to go, or should I try the "Factory Pro tubes BUT used genuine Yamaha needles." suggested by pbear62? Maybe both?

Another thing is that I may have been gypped on buying the bike... It was sold to me as 1999 model but I suspect that going by the paint job it's actually 1996.
I can't seem to find much on the web re. differences between the models. Is there a page I could visit or can I tell from the engine/frame numbers, etc.?

Cheers again!

[Con Rod]

the compliance plate on the frame will tell you the month and year of manufacture.

If it was a grey import it is not uncommon for places like Sumoto to be a bit deceptive and pace of the compliance date as the manufacture date

the Keyster kits from MotorcycleSpareWareshouse are great, have all you need to completely refurbish the carb

[Dav]

Just get the flatslides..you'll do it eventually anyway...the power and the sound is intoxicating

[wreckage]

Being the grunty-loving type, I'll go the replacement carb kits, ignition and air-filter route initially.
Can anybody recommend a reliable place to order Yamaha parts in Brisbane? I'm after a few things like the mythical K&N air filter, rear disc pad spring-clips, and a fork dust seal.

Rod.s... can you point me to this ignition system that's for sale? I can't find it. I'll also need stem head bearings in a few hundred klms. but that's not important yet.
Is Team Moto Yamaha a good place to order parts from?

Also, with the carb kits from http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/ , is the silver thing pictured the needle jet? How come it's not brass, and should I use it or keep the standard ones if not worn?

Ahh... the joys of being mechanically ignorant.

Oh... came across this new Inline Twin UK forum if anybody's interested: http://inlinetwin.co.uk

[Rod.s]

Being the grunty-loving type, I'll go the replacement carb kits, ignition and air-filter route initially.
Can anybody recommend a reliable place to order Yamaha parts in Brisbane? I'm after a few things like the mythical K&N air filter (ebay), rear disc pad spring-clips, and a fork dust seal.(All from Ebay)

Rod.s... can you point me to this ignition system that's for sale? I can't find it (it's sold, you have to be quick http://www.trx850.com/phpBB_forum/viewt ... 33&t=10537). I'll also need stem head bearings in a few hundred klms (clean and refit). but that's not important yet.
Is Team Moto Yamaha a good place to order parts from?

Yep "Team low blow" will take your money, Try cobba first as he has some parts left over from his rebuild

Also, with the carb kits from http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/ , is the silver thing pictured the needle jet? Yes How come it's not brass, (design..either the tube or the needle need to wear, the kit is just perfect to use as is) and should I use it or keep the standard ones if not worn? use the whole kit

Ahh... the joys of being mechanically ignorant.

Oh... came across this new Inline Twin UK forum if anybody's interested: http://inlinetwin.co.uk

[Smithers]

If you have been previously riding a multi, then the TRX does seem jerky, ie. if you abruptly close the throttle down when coming up to a round about the engine braking is very pronounced ....took a while to get used to it.... They tend to shudder at low revs when you put on the gas, due partly to a light crank assembly. I've improved this with a combination of tuning, keeping throttle cable slack to a minimum, a smaller front sprocket (16T) and the addition of a flywheel weight.... a disc attached to the rear of the flywheel which adds an extra 10% weight .... not much, but makes for better down changes, slightly more tractability and doesn't effect overall performance....intended to make it a little heavier but my box of steel offcuts didn't cough up a thick enough piece to machine .... quite content that it didn't in retrospect. The difference between a 96 and 99 is not much. My son has a 1999 and it does not have a gear whine and changes gear better (that could be oil)... my 1996 has the often heard gear whine of earlier models, especially in 3rd. That could be one clue to age. The gear whine is not due to wear, it's something to do with backlash or tooth involute shape.... not sure........congratulations on your buy, it's a brilliant bike that you can keep making even better.

[wreckage]

Thanks, Smithers.
You guys have some great tips but most of you seem to be out-and-out mechanical geniuses! Alas, I'm just a tinkerer and am feeling nervous about even attempting to install carburetor kits. I'll give it a go, though - I'll just have to do the research and make sure I'm prepared, although I have been told 'it's easy'.
I must say my biker enthusiasm couldn't have been far under the surface 'cause now I have the TRX you can't wipe the smile from my face.

20 years without owning a bike and just stoking the flames every now and then by riding mates' bikes should not have happened! I'm a very happy chappy.

Thanks again for your hints and tips!
Cheers.

[craybait]

Well wreckage,
Have now had my trx 3 years,first 2 not so good ,jerky snatchy ,left pipe red.
Had an expensive dyne tune, worse still and disappointing HP. Then with forum help had a mobile older yamaha mechanic put a keyster needle /tubes in, much better then 6 months later [ was away from Perth] putt a 'cocky' ignition kit and it is a new bike, much too the surprise of an old cynic,one week ago I put the over racing exhaust on [also sourced from cocky ] and it is now a very quick machine.The exhaust has only changed the note and it runs leaner and from 4000 to 7000 it is a bit scary, than the 2 into1and akro muffler I had on.
In summary suggestions1.Keyster kit
2.cocky ignition[made a much bigger difference than 1]
3.Note before 1 and 2, I had fitted a k& n and a free flowing exhaust
Don't waste 2 years!!!!!

[dandywarhol]

Any details on this cocky fella? Cheers

[wreckage]

Any details on this cocky fella? Cheers

I think he might mean cobbadiggabuddyblooo http://www.trx850.com/phpBB_forum/membe ... ile&u=1504, but I could be wrong.

Cheers.

[dandywarhol]

Sussed that thanks - and got a unit delivered today. Cheers

[wreckage]

the compliance plate on the frame will tell you the month and year of manufacture.

G'day, Con Rod.

As per the below image, the only thing I can find that hints at the year of manufacture is the Noise Test sticker.
Under IDENTIFICATION it has 4UN-1, 4UN-2.
According to the information from a TRX manual (bottom image), the 1996 model is 4UN1 so I'm assuming I was given incorrect information when I purchased the bike.
Oh well.. caveat emptor, as they say.

Does anybody know if there's a way of ascertaining the year of manufacture from the Model label under the pillion seat? I'm guessing the 'B' is for colour...



Cheers.

[Rod.s]

It's the X/XX number on the left of first plate, Month/year