wheel bearing removal

[youngone]

Can anyone give me any advice on bearing extraction. I have the wheels out and rotors off. Having read one or two posts I was expecting to be able to go straight onto the bearing with a drift. However the tube between the bearings does not feel like it wants to move and I am looking at a pretty steplless bore right through. Thanks

[trixynut]

The spacer tube has some movement all round it to enable it to move to the side so you have a small ledge of bearing to get a drift onto.
My guess is the bearings either side are trapping the tube, so try and yank one out a few mm and then move the tube and give it a bash.
Bearings are bitches!

[Rich]

Get a rawl bolt that is the same size as the inner of the bearing, put it in, tighten it up and tap it out from the reverse side.

alternatively if you have access to a welder:

take the cage off the bearing balls and remove the inner race and balls, then run a ring of weld around the outer race where the balls go. Wait for weld to cool and the outer will probably fall out on its' own.

[Rod.s]

Don't forget to replace the rear sprocket carrier bearing at the same time often forgoten

[Wombat]

Get a 12 - 18" piece of smooth reo steel rod. On one end either machine or angle grind a step about 15mm long so the end of the rod looks like a half moon.
Insert the rod thru the axle so it sits on the inner ring of the bearing and tap away.

Friend who's a machinist showed me that and its cheaper than buying a bearing puller. You're not gonna use the old bearings anyway so doesn't matter if they get damaged.

Another tip I found with wheel bearings (tried this on the Guzzi) was that if the face in the wheel casting gets worn where the bearing sits (meaning that you put the bearing in and the outer casing is able to rotate by itself [happened to me]) Use a smear of blue Loctite on the outer face of the bearing and that will hold it tight in the wheel casting until you remove it again

Bob