Rough Rider

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twcomp
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Rough Rider

Post by twcomp » Fri Mar 31, 2017 12:13 pm

I had the valve clearances checked (44,000km) by the shop a couple of months ago. Rode it intermittently for a few 100kms then about a 4 weeks ago it started running poorly - symptoms sounded very similar to the emulsion tube syndrome.

Installed the keystar tubes and needles and replace all the associated gaskets and o-rings.

Took her for a test run and was running better but still not excellent. Then all of sudden got a couple of bangs, a few farts, some darkish smoke from the RHS pipe for about 10 seconds then off she went as good as ever.

However, now she runs really poorly between 2-4000rpm, ie lots of surging.

Any pointers in which direction to look?

Cheers,
Mike

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Re: Rough Rider

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Fri Mar 31, 2017 12:20 pm

Start at carbies and look at the air cut off valve cover, ( the white plastic disc on the side of the carbies) as these perish and leak air and a common issue with the trx now as they age gracefully.
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twcomp
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by twcomp » Fri Mar 31, 2017 12:36 pm

cobbadiggabuddyblooo wrote:Start at carbies and look at the air cut off valve cover, ( the white plastic disc on the side of the carbies) as these perish and leak air and a common issue with the trx now as they age gracefully.
Thanks cobba. Will have a look.

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Overlord Neil
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by Overlord Neil » Fri Mar 31, 2017 10:54 pm

If the carbs don't solve your issue, might be worth getting the cam cover off and checking the cam timing is good. I had my valve clearances checked by a 'good local garage' only to be handed my testicles on a plate.

From my own bitter experience, its quite easy [if you are unfamiliar with the quirks of the TRX] to get the valve timing horribly wrong, whilst thinking you are doing it 'correctly', basically follow the service manual.
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twcomp
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by twcomp » Thu Apr 06, 2017 8:51 pm

twcomp wrote:
cobbadiggabuddyblooo wrote:Start at carbies and look at the air cut off valve cover, ( the white plastic disc on the side of the carbies) as these perish and leak air and a common issue with the trx now as they age gracefully.
Thanks cobba. Will have a look.
No luck with the covers. Man that LHS one is a bastard to get to.

The problem is right on 2500rpm. Light acceleration and it doesn't miss a beat. Anything more than half throttle and it coughs and splutters and then takes off as if nothing happened. Idles well.

Could it be timing like Neil suggested? I know if I take it back to the shop I'll get all sorts of BS.

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Overlord Neil
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by Overlord Neil » Thu Apr 06, 2017 10:44 pm

I picked mine up from the shop, having been assured that the guy had 'test rode' it and it 'went like a dream'.... large hairy sphericals

Its actually ran like a jar of nails. Fine with dainty acceleration, but give it a handful then nothing until about 4,000 rpm then it would take off. The big thing i noticed was that the rear wheel would lock up if you were riding spirited, which i thought was odd at the time.

I was convinced at the time it was lean mixture and assumed the carb boots were cracked and had been 'disturbed' during the valve clearance check. What i should have done, was take it straight back to the f=garage and get them to ride it again. Kick up a fuss and tell the guy to ix it or be sued.

Take my advice; if its not running right and its not been that long since you had engine work done, take it back and get them to 'fix' it. They won't like it but fukem.
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:12 am

Can you remember what position you placed the needle circlip and what size main jet??? 140???
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twcomp
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by twcomp » Fri Apr 07, 2017 7:48 am

cobbadiggabuddyblooo wrote:Can you remember what position you placed the needle circlip and what size main jet??? 140???
The needle circlip was in the middle of the three grooves. I didn't get the size of the main jet, left it as is, but I do have the various replacements from the Keystar repair kit.

I'm thinking I'll take it back to Team Homo Virgina. Neil's got me spooked. I've only done about 50km since they did the valves.

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Overlord Neil
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by Overlord Neil » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:31 pm

Sorry twcomp, didn't mean to spook you, but I'd certainly start by going back to the company that did the work. I wish I had, I've cause myself all kinds of grief, but I have learnt a lot... the hard way!
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by trixynut » Fri Apr 07, 2017 3:14 pm

Always start with the easy stuff before getting into the engine.

TPS set right?
Dirty fuel?
Fuel starvation? Kinked pipe when you put the tank back on?( would be ok on mild throttle but not enough fuel if you give it a fistful.)
New tubes put in right/not sticking?
etc.

twcomp
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by twcomp » Sat Apr 08, 2017 1:04 pm

trixynut wrote:Always start with the easy stuff before getting into the engine.

TPS set right?
Dirty fuel?
Fuel starvation? Kinked pipe when you put the tank back on?( would be ok on mild throttle but not enough fuel if you give it a fistful.)
New tubes put in right/not sticking?
etc.
Did the TPS check and its right on 4000.
Checked all the hoses and they look ok. I'm pretty sure that fuel is getting through. It pulls nice and hard from 4000rpm.
When you say tubes, do you mean the emulsion tubes? I thought they can only go in one way. Where would they stick? They seem to seat pretty well when I put them in.

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Re: Rough Rider

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Sat Apr 08, 2017 2:04 pm

Look at the pilot curcuit on the carbies and float levels. Double check the vaccum rubbers on the top too while at it. Meter your battery too during start up and running. May be worth while checking the earth mounts too. There is 1 up by the coils and another on top sump. Clean your fuse connectors and look at the starter relay to make sure your getting a good clean health spark.
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twcomp
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Re: Rough Rider - Back in action

Post by twcomp » Fri Oct 13, 2017 2:02 am

Hey all.

Had some issues with logging in so I've been AWAL for a bit.

Thanks again for all the info. Bike's running sweet all through the rev range now. The culprit? I think it was a gunked up jet. I did have the carbs out of the bike for a bit waiting for the emulsion tubeys to show up. Anyways, gave every thing a good soak and clean, chucked it all back in. Again, I got a few more spits and farts before she was away - does smell a little rich though, so something else to play with.

So now... Well I did a track day and all was good, however, as the day went on there was definitely an issue with the front brakes - juddering, very soft feel on the heavier braking sections.
The bloke I bought the bike off changed out the rotors and pads just before I bought it. I checked for warping and run-out, all sweet. Check the calipers. Holey Moley! The RHS pads are wearing in a V shape. Three of the four pistons are seized. Really seized, like not budging. Lever pressure - no good. Air compressor - no good. I've got a pressure calibration pump which goes to 2000KPa+ no good.

Any bright ides on how to get these puppies out? Youtube has a few ideas but they only work on single sided calipers, not duals.

If not sounds like a perfect opportunity to go to blue spots.

Thanks

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Re: Rough Rider

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Fri Oct 13, 2017 4:38 am

Just go to blue/ silver/ gold spots .
Give the discs a good clean and scrub the old pad material off them with some 400 grit wet n dry.
You won't corrupt your new pads with the old material plus you'll have an uneven build up due to the piston issue.
Clean the rotor buttons to by placing a bolt through the rotor buttons that hold the disc to the carrier and make sure they can spin. They can clog up with brake dust. Tighten the nut and bolt up and that will allow you to spin the button.
Semi floating discs like the std ones will move but can have a little resistance and look more like a rivet.
Fully floating should spin freely and have a c shaped Spring clip to retain the button in place plus the disc will move laterally on the button.( hence fully float ).
Clean the caliper and Pistons with brake fluid and a tooth brush as some other solvents/ cleaner will impact on the integrity of the piston/ calliper seals.
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dicky
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Re: Rough Rider

Post by dicky » Fri Oct 13, 2017 6:53 am

Second Cobba suggestions.
It's not worth the trouble to try and 'fix' the standard front calipers, they were never good and never will be.
Any of the brakes from R6/R1 up until the change to radial calipers are a straight bolt on replacement.
Make sure to get the master cylinder as well, you need the 14mm bore to get the correct feel.
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