servicing the trx

boyso20 · Post by **boyso20** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:09 pm

hi all, i am booking my trx in for its 80000km service...yes 80, i've been quoted for valve clearances to be done, oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter and carbs cleaned for Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£300. is this a good price? its at a yamaha garage too.

Post by **phuk72** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:58 am

Personally, I wouldn't trust a main dealer to put petrol in the tank, let alone touch the moving bits of the bike. They are often over priced, have crap customer service and leave your (in their opinion) 10 year old crap bike to the apprentice. Find an independent mechanic is my advice.

But to answer the question at hand ..... have they seen the bike before?

There is a fair bit of difference between simply checking the valve clearances and adjusting them. If they are re shimming then Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£300 is a fair price.

TBH, oil and filters change is straight forward, why don't you try it yourself?

For that matter, checking valve clearances isn't that hard either (although I would recommedn that you don't adjust them unless you are fairly handy with the spanners.

My advice - get a manual and have a go yourself. Start with the easy stuff (and I mean very easy) like air filter change and lubing cables etc.

And if you can't, find a decent mechanic.

Where are you? I'm sure that someone on here can recommend someone.

HolerTogni · Post by **HolerTogni** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:05 am

Hi boyso20!

Glad to see you have made it to our new place.

Congratulations to the 80'000 km - mine has just 62'000 on the clock

Last summer I paid EUR 300,- (approx. GBP 200,-) for valve adjustment (including seals and two spark plugs) also at a Yamaha workshop what I found a reasonable price also compared with what other TRX riders paid for that.

For the remaining GBP 100,- getting the rest of the work done you mentioned seems ok for me - though I have no idea what the workshops on the Island take on average.

Calculating greetings from Munich!

burty · Post by **burty** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:37 am

The parts:

oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, plus a pair of plugs (which should be in your list really), will come to less than Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£100 (probably nearer Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£80). So the other Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£200 ish is labour. Probably 5 hours at main dealer prices. Which sounds about right TBH.

Depending on what it's been booked for, if it's a proper service they should check and lubricate also, cables, swingarm pivot, and suspension linkages.

And depending what other services have been done and when, it should have head bearings should be lubricated every 24000 kms, brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years, front fork oil should be replaced every 24000 kms, or 2-3 years, coolant every 24000 kms (or 2 - 3 years). None of which ever get done.

The cost of a few hours labour makes me cringe. The only times I've ever paid anyone to work on a bike of mine, I've been left with an overwhelming feeling that I've been ripped off. Actually, even for a novice most of those tasks are pretty easy, with the exception of checking valve clearances, or changing shims. But I wouldn't recommend any novice do any work without having someone more knowledgeable that can give some support.

I would echo phuk's point about trying to find a good independent dealer that doesn't charge the earth. There's nothing on a TRX that requires specialist knowledge or tools that is limited to Yamaha.

boyso20 · Post by **boyso20** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:20 pm

thanks to all the feedback on servicing. i've been in two minds what to do and who to take it to. other than the yamaha dealer in my area there's a local motorcycle servicing shop which would, more than likely be a damn sight cheaper.(and its closer) maybe i'll get a quote from them and compare.
i thought valve adjusting was specialist yamaha?
i am in marlow, bucks, if anyone knows of a decent mechanic in the area please let me know.

HansJ · Post by **HansJ** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:31 pm

Just a heads-up, if the non-Yamaha workshop re-shims, make it very clear to them not to over-tighten the camshaft bearings. The cams should rotate easily after assembly, and not be tightened more than stated in the workshop manual (think it's 10 Nm). That's the only "special" with the TRX-engine, otherwise they'll be capable enough.

Red Rex · Post by **Red Rex** » Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:55 am

Welcome Boyso! You've got probably one of the best TRX guys living on your doorstep (Phuk will disagree as a matter of principle!) and I'll wait for him to identify himself and advise your nearest and safest mechanic.
In the meantime I will put in my usual invite for a meet at Fox's Diner one weekend soon to put a face to the name and a 'you-show-me-yours-and-I'll-show-you-mine" session.

Post by **phuk72** » Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:53 am

The only bit I disagree with is probably

boyso20 · Post by **boyso20** » Sat Apr 07, 2007 1:37 pm

thanks redrex, i'm definately up for a blast to foxes diner in the coming weeks.
i eagerly await the advice of the nearest and safest trx mechanic in my area.
the next thing is....my speedo cable broke on the way home today, it snapped off down near the wheel. Anybody know if this an easy fix, and would i be able to attempt it myself.
thanks

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Sun Apr 08, 2007 2:51 am

Valve adjustment isnt the black voodoo that many ppl think it is.

When you take the rocker cover off, you get some feeler guages between the cam lobe and the bucket (little cover thing that goes over the valve and springs) and write down results and do to each one. This requires the engine to be turned over by hand, not a huge issue (put in gear, roll the back tyre on a stand can do the trick).

Once you have your results, compare to what the gap SHOULD be and re-shim accordingly.. That is the "hard" part as it requires taking the cam out and fiddling a bit.. If you are unsure, get a damn mechanic to do it.

As for oil / air filters, do it yourself.. Helps you learn about the bike while you are at it..

Also dump the radiator fluid and put a full new batch in while you are at it.. You will see the radiator drain plug on your right hand side, down the bottom of the engine.. The part that the black hose connects to, theres a little hex head bolt.. Unscrew that and it begins to drain..
Make sure you undo your radiator filler cap before doing this, else it will take forever and a day.

Depending on the colour that comes out (should be fairly bright green, not "murky" in any way.. Ill top it back up, start engine, and then dump that lot aswell as to "wash" out any more gunk, and on the 2nd refill us that as my "real" top-up.

Make sure you have a few containers laying around to keep the spare fluids.. Once you have done it all, you can pour the old fluids into the empty bottles (or some spare 2litre coke bottles) and dispose of them properly. DONT FOR THE LOVE OF GOD POUR THEM DOWN THE DRAIN !!! Many recycle depot's take it for free as a service. Coz im a tradesman we have our own waste chemical bins at work, so i just take it to there, pour it in, and a truck comes once every so often, and cleans it out..

anyway, goodluck.. Any dealer will be safe.. A genuine yammy dealer will give a warrenty, but prolly cost more coz they will use "authorised" fluids / parts.. But any "specialist" bike mechanic will prolly have these parts stock anyway. Will be a touch cheaper, or in some cases more expensive, but my opinion, a better piece of mind.

Find a local bike club, ring them, say "what mechanic do all the locals use ?" you will find the best that way.. cost more, but WELL worth it.. and only cost you a phone call to find out

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EDIT
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As for your speedo cable, can you take a pic and post it ? so we have an idea where it broke ? it COULD just be the thread, which can be fixed.. if its "proper broke" then you might need a new speedo drive.

boyso20 · Post by **boyso20** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:16 pm

heres a pic of the speedo cable. about 3 inches of cable inside snapped off at the bottom.

cheesie · Post by **cheesie** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:41 pm

my speedo cable came loose last week and the inner fell out Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£10 for a copy Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£20 for gen yamaha one did your inner brake if not I have the outer still if you want it

boyso20 · Post by **boyso20** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:36 pm

i assume the inner is the actual wire cable? this is what broke on mine.

trixynut · Post by **trixynut** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:33 pm

Boyso,
This is a common problem: they let water in which sits at the bottom of the cable inside the sleeve and rusts it through a few inches up. I got a new pattern one for mine from somewhere like M and P mandp.co.uk or demon tweeks.
dave.

Doyle171 · Post by **Doyle171** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:05 pm

Common problem and an eay fix just re-attach it. If you have slim fingers you might not even have to remove the fairing.