What did you do today? Cobba's rebuild

[dicky]

The TRX is a pretty cool running engine as is.

Damn right it is, that's why we ride TRX's!
If I wanted max HP and min kg I'd buy an R1, but where's the fun in that?

[Rod.s]

An air cooled engine would benefit a fair bit from an oil cooler as the oil takes the heat dissipation role to a greater extent than that of a liquid cold engine ie Ducati engines. The TRX is a pretty cool running engine as is.

And just as important high flow, not for the bearings but to move the hot oil away from the cylinder head and to the sump for cooling (or oil cooler)

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Yes the water cools the top of the motor not the bottom, so the motor is relying on the oil to cool the lower half of the motor.
That includes the clutch, gearbox too.
Another reason why I'm trying a 1 way valve on the engine breather on the current motor.
But that's another story and how this effects inside the crankcases.
As mentioned the oil sender is just a reference point to work from.

Yes I understand your point too Dicky,
no offence but my humorous nature couldn't resist the opportunity mate.
As I mentioned it's all a part of a learning curve for myself and if myself or others learn from what comes out of this, then this thread has served it's purpose.
It's good to see a healthy debate on things I bring up.

Just to clarify
The primary goal here too is not weight loss, it's performance working to enhance each other and if weight loss helps, all the better.
The R1 front end has gained me 2kg, if weight loss was my primary goal, I'd have one of those Spandon alloy frames..

[Rod.s]

Yes the water cools the top of the motor not the bottom, so the motor is relying on the oil to cool the lower half of the motor.

Not quite the full story, water tries to keep a stable temperature in the cylinder head, oil is critical, as it is also used to wick away heat from the head/cams, valves etc, to be cooled in the sump. Over 90% of engine heat is generated in the cylinder head.

The rest of the engine has little requirement for cooling, it runs (without the heat from the head) as cool as a standard car gearbox.

So all cooling is for the benefit of the combustion process.


That includes the clutch, gearbox too.
Another reason why I'm trying a 1 way valve on the engine breather on the current motor.
But that's another story and how this effects inside the crankcases.
As mentioned the oil sender is just a reference point to work from.

Yes I understand your point too Dicky,
no offence but my humorous nature couldn't resist the opportunity mate.
As I mentioned it's all a part of a learning curve for myself and if myself or others learn from what comes out of this, then this thread has served it's purpose.
It's good to see a healthy debate on things I bring up.

Just to clarify
The primary goal here too is not weight loss, it's performance working to enhance each other and if weight loss helps, all the better.
The R1 front end has gained me 2kg, if weight loss was my primary goal, I'd have one of those Spandon alloy frames..

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Thank Rod and Dicky,
So my $1 oil cooler may not be needed, but I can see the oil temp sender will give a temperature reference point to compare how well the ceramic coating internals work and if I'll benefit from putting the cooler inline.
Std motor Vs hi comp ceramic coated

[davamb]

...Another reason why I'm trying a 1 way valve on the engine breather on the current motor. But that's another story and how this effects inside the crankcases....

You might want to have a look at the XS650 reed-valve type breather Cobba, most Commandos are now running these beasties. Certainly improve oil loss due to forming a partial vacuum inside the crank-case and there are claims of a horsepower or two gained due to not having to pump crank-case air.
Not easy to come by I'm afraid, got mine from MikesXS Stateside and shipping cost more than the part!

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

I'll look at that option Dave. At present I have a One way valve is in place and I was thinking on placing the small outlet tube from the catch tank into the exhaust , working on a venturi effect.
Easy fix is the can outlet baffle attachment hole and placing the tube at a 45* angle.

[Rich]

poppet valves are the same principle. The reeds in Mikes valve are similar to those used in the TDM 900 cam cover.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Good reading on oils and pistons

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs ... -tech.html

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Under way on how to make a centreline mark as a reference for dialling in the cams.
After reading Rods suggestion in the 12 / 14mm adaptor thread about dialling the cams on the bench, I thought I'd throw this up for discussion to see if I'm heading in the right direction.
With no real way of getting a reading from the bucket on top of the valve, I'll set up the dial indicator and take a reading from the valve head inside the chamber itself with the head secured firmly on bench.http



If I read 1mm lift on the valve as it's opening, I can then scribe a line on the end of the cam to line up with the outside edge of the cam cap.
I then repeat this and scribe a line at 1mm lift as the valve is closing and line that up with the inside edge of the valve cap.



Now effectively I will have 2 reference points scribed on the exhaust cam end to line up with the corresponding cam cap edge being the 2 values at 1mm lift either side of the cam centreline.



I then repeat this on the inlet cam and give myself the 2 reference points.
Now if I place the head back on the bike, attach the cam chain and then with the timing wheel on the crank, I can rotate the motor till I line up the the first... 1mm scribe line on the exhaust cam(being the valve opening). Note the timing degree..
Then line up the 2nd scribe line with the cam cap (being the valve closing). Note the timing degree.
If I find mid way between the 2 degree readings, this should be my lobe centreline
Once again I need to make a complete scribe line right across the cam end on both sides in line with the cap edges.
This will be my reference point and to get my desired lobe centre angle of 109* on the exhaust, I just loosen the cam sprocket bolts Rotate the crank while I hold the exhaust cam so it does not move till I find 109* and lock the sprocket bolts down.

This is a quick example of what I mean using a white marker to give you an idea ;
You can see the 2 smaller scribes that lines up with each respective cap end and a complete scribe line all the way across for the lobe centreline reference .

Repeat the same process for the inlet cam till I have my centreline at 105*

Looking at the cam and trying to place a degree wheel directly onto it to give me a reference may be difficult with no threaded end to fit it to.
The centre of the cam on the sprocket side has a hole in the centre 4.5mm deep with no thread ..
the cam sprocket bolts won't work as they disappear down into the chain galley.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Some info on the old staple bluespots used from late 90's early to 02 and the gold/silverspots used from 03-07.
You can see from the photos the difference in colour on the pistons.
The blue spots utilise a stainless piston and the later model gold/silver spots use an alloy piston with a Teflon coat.
The reason behind the change in piston being the Teflon coating being a friction reduction coating to try to alleviate the pistons binding or sticking to the seals.
I constantly found the blue spots would leave the pads dragging around the disc.
Never bad enough for the pads bind to the disc but just enough to drag themselves around the disc to slow rotation of the wheel with the front wheel in the air when doing a little cleaning/maintainence.

I'll post the weight differences shortly


BLUE SPOT CALLIPER



GOLD SPOT CALLIPER
You can see the difference in colour on the pistons

[Trixed]

Agree with that Cobba as the silver spots I have on the Japanese trx have never bound up and bite/ release is very clean. Don't quite get the same release from blue spots. Are u putting silver spots on yours?

Have u got ur master cylinder yet?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

I have a pair of silver and gold spots so depends what dress I'm wearing on the day so they match my earings
There will be one pair up for grabs soon.
Not stressing on a master just yet as the axial jobbies working just fine for now, but I've always got an eye out.
I'll need to sus out clearance with the fairing bars set up.
I'll just be glad to get myself mobile as I'm still waiting on fork bushes from yamaha... (6 weeks and counting )
Then pick up the pistons from Comp coating and have the crank balanced when I remove it later this week.

[Trixed]

Gee u r too fashionable these days !

I know someone that may have a 19 mm radial gsxr1000.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Good tutorial on radial master cylinders and the way they work in relation to their numbers too.. Eg ..19x18 -19x20

http://www.oppracing.com/pages/articles ... cylinders/



The following models are listed as having ø14mm bore/piston axial master cylinders:

Yamaha
XJR1300SP('99) (EU)
YZF-R1('98-'99)(EU)
YZF1000R Thunder Ace('96-'99)
YZF-R7('99)(EU)
YZF-R6('99-'99)
YZF600R Thunder Cat('97-'99)
FZS600('99)
Diversion 600('92)
SRX600('87-'97)
SR500('78-'84)
Diversion 400('91)
XJ400/E/D('80-'81)
SRX400('87-'99)
SR400('78-'84)
RD400('76)
ZEAL 250('91-'94)
FZR250('86-'88)
TZR250('86-'88)
RZ250('81-'82)
TDR250('88)
SRV250/S('92-'96)
TZR125('87-'94)

Honda
X-4('97-'99)
CBR1000F('89-'92)
CB1000SF/T2('92-'97)
VTR1000F('97-'99)
PC800('90)
NR750(RC40)('92)
CBR600F('86-'90)
BROS600('88-'90)
CB400SF('92-'98)
CB400SF Vr-S('96)
CB400SF Vr-R('95)
CB400Four('97-'99)
CBR400RR('90-'99)
CBR400R('86-'87)
BROS400('88-'90)
RVF400(NC35)('94-'99)
VFR400(NC30)('89-'93)
VFR400R Pro Arm('88)
VFR400R/Z('86-'87)
CBR250RR('90-'99)
CBR250F Hurricane('87)
NSR250R('88-'99)
CB125T('84-'90)

Suzuki
GSXR-1100('89-'92)
GSX1100F('88)
TL1000S('97-'99)
GSF750('96-'99)
GSXR-750W('92-'94)
GSXR-750('88-'91)
GSX750E('80-'83)
RG500r('85-'87)
GSX-400R('86-'87)
GSX400X Impulse('86)
RG400r('85-'87)
GSX400F('81-'83)
GT380('72-'78)
GSX-250R('87-'89)
GF250/S('85-'86)
RGV-250r('96-'99)
RG250r('85-'87)

Kawasaki

Z900 SuperFour('72-'75)
Z750RS('73-'75)
ZEPHYR 400x('96)
Xanzas('92)
ZXR400/R('91-'99)
ZX-4('88)
GPZ400R('87)
GPZ400R('85-'88)
FX400r('85-'87)
GPZ400F/FII('83-'85)
Z400GP('82)
Z400FX(W-DISK)('79-'82)
EX-4('94-'95)
Eliminator 400(C1/CX)('88-'89)
Eliminator 400('89-'90)
ZXR250('89-'99)
GPZ250RII('88)
KR-1('88)
KR250/S('84-'85)

Update 4 Dec, 5:30pm

Triumph
TT600
Sprint ST