I want my TRX to go faster

[sadmansteve]

I had the same problem with my Falco, too much weight on my now 54 year old wrists. However I would never go down the streetfighter route as some do to combat this, I absolutely hate the look of them. I fitted a set of Heil-bars which keeps the stock fairing and makes the riding position on the wrists more comfortable. Did the same to my SV1000s. Now its just the mood which dictates the choice of which one I ride and not how much discomfort I put up with!

[stevepeanut]

I shattered my elbow through the joint, and its caused problems with the nerves right up my arm. If I am on a bike where I am leaned onto the bars, when weight pushes onto the fleshy part where my palm meets the bottom of my thumb, it sends a huge pain right from my hand to my elbow. The TRX is the only bike where I am can have a faring and slightly dropped bars, but ride without pain. There are not many bikes I can ride that have clip ons or dropped bars, most of the time I have to have flat bars unless the odd bike like the TRX comes along where you are not pushed onto the bars.

[dandywarhol]

I would like a Tuono, always thought they were a good bike, but I am very put off by Aprilias. I paid £2250 for my Falco, and the starter sprag failed and screwed the engine. A few months later I broke the bike out for spares and got less than £1000. When the Falco was working right it was an amazing bike, but it was so tempremental, it was like flipping a coin, heads it will fire up and ride like a dream, tails it will make odd noises and not start, the clocks will change from miles to kilometers.

If my arm and hand werent bad, I would just go and buy a SP1.

Surely the problem with the sprag is the battery wasn't charged fully - bit of a problem in these colder northern climes. I'm not saying it is an excuse - a higher output battery would sort the issue out. I've always fancied a Tuono as a hooning tool

[stevepeanut]

I would like a Tuono, always thought they were a good bike, but I am very put off by Aprilias. I paid £2250 for my Falco, and the starter sprag failed and screwed the engine. A few months later I broke the bike out for spares and got less than £1000. When the Falco was working right it was an amazing bike, but it was so tempremental, it was like flipping a coin, heads it will fire up and ride like a dream, tails it will make odd noises and not start, the clocks will change from miles to kilometers.

If my arm and hand werent bad, I would just go and buy a SP1.

Surely the problem with the sprag is the battery wasn't charged fully - bit of a problem in these colder northern climes. I'm not saying it is an excuse - a higher output battery would sort the issue out. I've always fancied a Tuono as a hooning tool

The sprag fell to bits in the engine. I discovered afterwards that if the battery is low you should never ever attempt to start the bike. I did try and start it lots of times with a nearly flat battery, thats what killed it. It used to fire up ok, then every week the bad noise got worse and worse untill the sprag gave up and would never start again, even with a new fully charged battery.

[Yoozy]

I might possibly be the forums biggest Ape nut [i don't know everything but I'm keen ]. I've had a few and found them all to be completely reliable as long as you gen up on them. Particularly the charging and starting. They all have to have a good battery, preferably a Yuasa and nearly always kept on a tickle charger. You need to sort the connections out on the charging system as they fur up or even melt, so most do away with the connectors and solder the joints or even put solid pieces in.
Nearly everything mechanical from 99-05 is swappable on all litre bikes so spares are plentiful. I liken the Falco boys to you lot on here, all potty about modding them and obsessive for gaining knowledge Theirs a good crown on AF1 and Ridersite. I even reckon the earlier engines with the black clutch covers are better than the newer ones. Sounds like you were unlucky Mr P and I bet nearly everyone on here has had at least one lemon.
I bought this one off a bloke who slid it down the road and buggered up the fairings and did it up over one winter, then crashed it into the back of a Nissan Micra so had to do it all again. I loved it and had my biking Nirvana on it one long weekend in Scotland and like a dick sold it.



It used to be silver. Anyroad, when I've finished dicking about with the TRX I'm getting another Falco and doing it again to keep.

I can bore you shitless about me Tuono know if ya like

[sadmansteve]

Like Yoozy said. Lots of info on the AF1 site. First thing you need to do on the Falco is solder the connections from the regulator, fit a decent battery and junk the 50amp solenoid. I fitted a 100amp item from a YP125 Yamaha Majesty, straight swap and no more starting woes. Like the TRX a very underrated bike and lots of fun.

[QuickDraw]

junk the standard headers - they are very restrictive (big curve at the head)

I'm interested in this take phuk. Do you mean the restriction is straight after the ports? I've heard that the restriction is due to insufficient bore further down as the gas cools and slows. The reason I ask is that I'm thinking about getting myself a little inverter/TIG (was a sheetmetal worker a long time ago) and building a custom set. I was going to butcher a set of originals for the flanges and first bend.

[Kobo1]

...or you could try one of these...

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/ ... 6%2099.htm

A set of risers would fix the racer crouch if it's too much but look at those specs....Quick, light and great susp. and brakes...You'd be laughin'...

Kobo

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

I think the first bend may be a bit of a bad point to start . I've heard this raised a few times. Look at the bend and the way a pair of Akrapovic or over pipes and you can see the curves not quite as tight. If you need a template of the Akrapovic I'll be on the road again in a couple of weeks. I can come up for a ride one day and we can whip it off and you can get some dimensions if you like.

[phuk72]

Mine was ran up 79bhp at Dynobike in Malton, and I was told that was at the wheel, stock motor with carbon race cans. I think I will definately change the gearing first and see how that goes.

He's having you on

Bearing in mind that Yamaha quoted figures of 77bhp (at the crank) when the TRX was launched (and that was probably inflated), at best you would get 72bhp at the wheel. End cans ain't gonna give you that.

My dyno charts started at circa 70 at the wheel and ended up at 102.3 after spending LOTS of money.

[phuk72]

....................or get a Tuono

The Superduke is a better bike IMHO and if it was my money I'd be getting that or maybe a Buell 1125CR over a Tuono.

[phuk72]

junk the standard headers - they are very restrictive (big curve at the head)

I'm interested in this take phuk. Do you mean the restriction is straight after the ports? I've heard that the restriction is due to insufficient bore further down as the gas cools and slows. The reason I ask is that I'm thinking about getting myself a little inverter/TIG (was a sheetmetal worker a long time ago) and building a custom set. I was going to butcher a set of originals for the flanges and first bend.

It's not a take - it's fact The sharp bend at the head completely fecks up gas flow so no matter what you do after that you will still stop the motor from breathing properly.

If you look at any decent aftermarket pipes, you will see how smooth and shallow the curve is vs standard pipes. Once the gas is out of the motor, then it's about how it flows and there are many variables - bore, length, taper etc - which can affect performance.

This R&D is why Akra pipework will always give you the biggest outright power gain - not necessarily where you want it with a twin but .....

[stevepeanut]

Mine was ran up 79bhp at Dynobike in Malton, and I was told that was at the wheel, stock motor with carbon race cans. I think I will definately change the gearing first and see how that goes.

He's having you on

Bearing in mind that Yamaha quoted figures of 77bhp (at the crank) when the TRX was launched (and that was probably inflated), at best you would get 72bhp at the wheel. End cans ain't gonna give you that.

My dyno charts started at circa 70 at the wheel and ended up at 102.3 after spending LOTS of money.

It must be me thats mixed up then. Paul up at Dynobike is a sound bloke and has set up all my bikes over the years.

[phuk72]

I wouldn't get too hung up over it - dyno figures / charts are only really relevant for willy waving (did I mention I've got one with 102.3 bhp on it )

The important bit is that you use them for before and after comparisons and to ensure the AF is right

[QuickDraw]

Thanks phuk For sure if I'm going to make some, I prob'ly want to make sure they're right first go!

If you need a template of the Akrapovic I'll be on the road again in a couple of weeks. I can come up for a ride one day and we can whip it off and you can get some dimensions if you like.

That'd be awesome cobba'! We prob'ly might not even need to drop them off. Sing out when you're heading up this this way. I'll make sure I've got gas in the barby.