Steeringbar conversion

CULater · Post by **CULater** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 12:16 am

I did a conversion on my girls TRX replaced the clip-ons for a LSL Superbike steering bar. The TRX steers so much quicker now it's scary

Good thing it isn't my bike, coss it wouldn't be good for my health!

See the complete story (in pics) here:
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Su ... ouw%20TRX/

Lada.s · Post by **Lada.s** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 1:36 pm

and what clutch cabel? is needing longer or can be used standart?

Shifty · Post by **Shifty** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 2:06 pm

I had the same conversion and I changed to a clutchcable from a XJ900.
Standard one will be just a little to tight imo.

burty · Post by **burty** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:16 pm

I have a similar conversion and had a new clutch cable made that was 70mm longer.

CULater · Post by **CULater** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:13 pm

LSL says that you can use the standard clutch cable, i had to reroute it behind the headstock. I didn't like it at all, it had no slack at all, so i replaced it with a clutch cable from a Diversion. You can also use a TDM cable!

burty · Post by **burty** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 9:52 am

CULater wrote: You can also use a TDM cable!

I was told that, so I bought one, and it was nothing like the TRX cable at the clutch end. I ended up selling it on ebay.

CULater · Post by **CULater** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:08 pm

Like i've said, i used a Diversion cable, but "they" told me that a TDM cable was also suitable.

Apparently it isn't so then?

mark1971 · Post by **mark1971** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 10:04 pm

has anyone tried using the riser blocks that you can buy where you have to drill through your top yoke? i've been looking into buying some as i'm stripping the front end off my bike.

Cheers Mark

Barknmad · Post by **Barknmad** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:10 am

I've just drilled the top yoke and bolted with no problem (between the web).
For a clutch cable, I took my old one down to the local bike shop who used my ends a built a new inner and outer for $25.

JACKO · Post by **JACKO** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:43 pm

Hi guys
You can get clamps which clamp arround your fork legs so you dont have to drill the top yolk, but some of them look a bit crap (just rough castings painted black). I have had some machined from billet, if anyone has access to Autocad i could e-mail drawings. Should be posting some pics of the finished job when i can get round to getting some longer brake lines.

Jacko

CULater · Post by **CULater** » Wed Nov 22, 2006 11:21 pm

These clamps?

mark1971 · Post by **mark1971** » Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:29 pm

busters sell raask raisers that clamp over top of fork legs but i was thinking that the bars won't clear the adjusters on the tops of the fork legs as the bar mounts are in line with the centers of the clamps.

Mark

earywig · Post by **earywig** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:13 pm

Actually, you wont need a copy of Autocad, do a Google search of AutoDesk Volo View which will enable you to view the drawings - and it's free

P.S. Jacko, could you pm me the drawings please?

Earywig.

dillthedog · Post by **dillthedog** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:22 pm

dont know if this helps i bought a proper conversion kit for mine when it arrived on the bottom of the yoke in the casting it has the letters fz6 worth a try maybee

burty · Post by **burty** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 2:33 am

Yep, my ABM yoke has FZ6 printed on it too.