Not sure if I have to bother about this: After standing a couple of weeks the engine takes a good while to start.
It's not the battery. Last time I had to crank the engine twice for a good minute or a little more.
Could this be related to the valve clearances (<20'000 km)?
Hard starting after neglect
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madivi
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Hard starting after neglect
(My profile is still as stock as my Trixie is, this might change)
- HolerTogni
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Re: Hard starting after neglect
Hi madivi!
I have a similar starting behaviour - but on my CX 500 Euro.
What helps is emptying the float chamber (at best before you won't ride it for such a long time - if you know that beforehand).
If this helps you, too, then maybe your carburetor gaskets need to be changed because after a couple of weeks the volatile components of the fuel escaped from the float chamber and the remaining rest is not really ignitable anymore.
Guessing greetings from Munich!
I have a similar starting behaviour - but on my CX 500 Euro.
What helps is emptying the float chamber (at best before you won't ride it for such a long time - if you know that beforehand).
If this helps you, too, then maybe your carburetor gaskets need to be changed because after a couple of weeks the volatile components of the fuel escaped from the float chamber and the remaining rest is not really ignitable anymore.
Guessing greetings from Munich!
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madivi
- TRX-Enthusiast
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 9:56 pm
Re: Hard starting after neglect
Thanks TogniHolerTogni wrote:Hi madivi!
I have a similar starting behaviour - but on my CX 500 Euro.
What helps is emptying the float chamber (at best before you won't ride it for such a long time - if you know that beforehand).
If this helps you, too, then maybe your carburetor gaskets need to be changed because after a couple of weeks the volatile components of the fuel escaped from the float chamber and the remaining rest is not really ignitable anymore.
Guessing greetings from Munich!
Have you got any simple idea how I can interrupt the flow to the carbies?
The petcock (?) has no OFF position.
Moreover do you add anything to the fuel during wintertime to reduce oxidation in the tank?
(My profile is still as stock as my Trixie is, this might change)
- HolerTogni
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- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:14 pm
- Location: Germany - Munich
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Re: Hard starting after neglect
Hi madivi!
A simple way to interrupt the flow to the carbs is to install this (like i have):

I installed it in a quite long loop between the fuel tap and the fuel pump since the original fuel tube is very short.
Don't worry - at Hein Gericke it is delivered only in black although the pic shows a white
A more sophisticated way (as a few members of the German TRX forum did it) would be installing an electromagnetic valve which cuts the flow - connected to the ignition circuit it would at the same time act as an immobiliser* (and you couldn't forget to disconnect the quick disconnect coupler). Most of them installed it betwen the fuel pump and the carbs near the carbs.
And no, I don't use any additives in the fuel during winter time - until the bio ethanol percentage is not above 5% it is not neccessary (but above it would be 'cause ethanol is hygroscopic and therefore a steel tank could rust despite full of "fuel"
).
Connected greetings from Munich!
Edit:
* of course with a hidden switch or so
As I noticed that you might be the "madivi" also hanging about in the German TRX forum:
This is the thread to the Pierburg electromagnetic valve
A simple way to interrupt the flow to the carbs is to install this (like i have):

I installed it in a quite long loop between the fuel tap and the fuel pump since the original fuel tube is very short.
Don't worry - at Hein Gericke it is delivered only in black although the pic shows a white
A more sophisticated way (as a few members of the German TRX forum did it) would be installing an electromagnetic valve which cuts the flow - connected to the ignition circuit it would at the same time act as an immobiliser* (and you couldn't forget to disconnect the quick disconnect coupler). Most of them installed it betwen the fuel pump and the carbs near the carbs.
And no, I don't use any additives in the fuel during winter time - until the bio ethanol percentage is not above 5% it is not neccessary (but above it would be 'cause ethanol is hygroscopic and therefore a steel tank could rust despite full of "fuel"
Connected greetings from Munich!
Edit:
* of course with a hidden switch or so
As I noticed that you might be the "madivi" also hanging about in the German TRX forum:
This is the thread to the Pierburg electromagnetic valve
- idl1975
- TRX-Enthusiast
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- Location: Surrey
Re: Hard starting after neglect
Excellent suggestions. Failing that, simply pull the appropriate fuel hose off. The tap won't gravity feed fuel unless you set it to "prime", so you won't/shouldn't get the contents of the tank all over your bike/floor.
If you're patient and comfortable with the idea, it might be an idea to do a carb rebuild, assuming it hasn't been done recently. As Togni says, it seems like there may be an old float bowl gasket at work there, as mine has sat for similar amounts of time and starts without extended periods of cranking. Most TRXs are old enough now that original hoses and gaskets in the fuel system are due for throwing away.
Of course putting things into perspective, the bike is working fine so no need to do anything other than ride it I suppose.
If you're patient and comfortable with the idea, it might be an idea to do a carb rebuild, assuming it hasn't been done recently. As Togni says, it seems like there may be an old float bowl gasket at work there, as mine has sat for similar amounts of time and starts without extended periods of cranking. Most TRXs are old enough now that original hoses and gaskets in the fuel system are due for throwing away.
Of course putting things into perspective, the bike is working fine so no need to do anything other than ride it I suppose.
madivi wrote:Thanks TogniHolerTogni wrote:Hi madivi!
I have a similar starting behaviour - but on my CX 500 Euro.
What helps is emptying the float chamber (at best before you won't ride it for such a long time - if you know that beforehand).
If this helps you, too, then maybe your carburetor gaskets need to be changed because after a couple of weeks the volatile components of the fuel escaped from the float chamber and the remaining rest is not really ignitable anymore.
Guessing greetings from Munich!
Have you got any simple idea how I can interrupt the flow to the carbies?
The petcock (?) has no OFF position.
Moreover do you add anything to the fuel during wintertime to reduce oxidation in the tank?
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'04 Aprilia Tuono Fighter
'00 Scooby Sport Wagon
'76 TY250.
'04 Aprilia Tuono Fighter
'00 Scooby Sport Wagon
'76 TY250.
