EBC clutch?

[idl1975]

Hello all.

I recently (finally!) resurrected my TRX from long-term storage and am now using it on the road again. This reminded me that when I put it away in 1999 (at 21,000 miles) it was suffering a bad case of Yamaha '90s clutch, probably not helped by excessive youth and enthusiasm. It's juddering when you get to the point of easing it out completely, and I had to wind the adjuster out to keep it engaging fully.

Thinking of swapping out the old friction plates for EBC ones and popping in the heavier EBC springs. Anyone had positive or negative experience with the EBC aftermarket stuff? Does anyone think the basket or the steel plates are likely to need doing? Don't know if they tend to get knackered as I've never changed the clutch on this bike.

Cheers...

[burty]

OK, not TRX.

But I fitted the EBC clutch to my ZRX, and wished that I'd spent the extra few quid and bought OE. IIRC The difference was £50 ish as opposed to £80 for OE.

I'm not heavy handed, and for my use I didn't see any real benefit in the stiffer springs, but I did suffer clutch judder that wasn't present previously.

Personally I've never had a completely satisfactory experience with anything from EBC.

Andy

[idl1975]

Cor, doesn't sound good!

Anyone tried Barnett? Kedo apparently lists their stuff for the TRX, although I think the Barnett site only lists pre-270 degree applications.

[DOBBO]

I ran a E.B.C clutch and springs in an rd 350 lc with no problems.

[Killerwhale]

Cor, doesn't sound good!

Anyone tried Barnett? Kedo apparently lists their stuff for the TRX, although I think the Barnett site only lists pre-270 degree applications.

I run the Barnett KEDO kit and only thing is the left hand gets a good workout!
I actually have an extra set wich i was thinking of putting up on ebay....

[tiny]

I fitted a ebc clutch to a 1998 R1 it slipped from day one when I spoke to ebc they didnt recommend 100% sinth oil,
I paid extra got a yam clutch fitted it, used 100% sith oil and it was spot on. I don't recommend ebc clutch if you use fully sinth oil

[idl1975]

Hello all.

I recently (finally!) resurrected my TRX from long-term storage and am now using it on the road again. This reminded me that when I put it away in 1999 (at 21,000 miles) it was suffering a bad case of Yamaha '90s clutch, probably not helped by excessive youth and enthusiasm. It's juddering when you get to the point of easing it out completely, and I had to wind the adjuster out to keep it engaging fully.

Thinking of swapping out the old friction plates for EBC ones and popping in the heavier EBC springs. Anyone had positive or negative experience with the EBC aftermarket stuff? Does anyone think the basket or the steel plates are likely to need doing? Don't know if they tend to get knackered as I've never changed the clutch on this bike.

Cheers...

Did the clutch replacement yesterday using Wemoto's pattern (OE supplier?) Kyoto friction plates and EBC heavy-duty clutch springs. Principally for the benefit of people doing searches later:

1) The Wemoto pattern friction plates are the spit of the Yamaha originals I removed and I'm not having any problems with adverse clutch behaviour so far (a few miles' test ride).
2) The heavy duty clutch springs are fine for everyday road use. Just, err, noticeably heavier.
3) If you're using the Haynes manual as a guide, it fails to state that you have to remove the actuator arm (the bracket that holds the clutch cable terminator) before you can remove the clutch cover. It suggests that you simply need to unhook the cable terminator from its bracket, freeing the actuator rod from the cable. However, with the actuator arm on, the clutch cover won't clear the frame. You'll want to make sure you have a pair of circlip pliers of the appropriate size on hand (and probably a new circlip).

Other than the above, not sure there is anything useful to add. Based on the original clutch action (after 22,000 miles), I expected a bit of a mess inside. But the basket, friction, and steel plates looked brand spanking. Not a mark on them, and no visible damage to the old friction plates, though I didn't bother getting out a vernier caliper. The condition of the plates also suggests to me that 79 bhp doesn't worry the clutch too much, even if you've managed to shag the friction plates, so anyone planning this job probably shouldn't worry about replacing the steel plates.

Only thing that worried me slightly was that the OE springs had actually worn slight grooves into the 'pillars' that the spring bolts bolt into. Anyone know if Barnett or another company do an aftermarket pressure plate? My brother in law has one in his kit car's R1 engine, and it's very bling indeed.