After a couple of weeks and 2500km clocked up, I wasn't quite happy with the set up and new there was more but I was chasing my tail.
My own stupid fault really as I broke a golden rule and changed too many things at once.
So back to the std TRX riders seat (not the repadded std riders seat I have or the other tail/seat section)
Then back to std footpegs (not the rearsets) and within a few KM's I find the result I was looking for.
I took a few measurements and after shuffling through notes, I realise I had acheived exactly what I wanted to start when I first sat down and thought about how I would approach the frame/suspension about 2yrs previous.
Measurements get the clip ons 20mm further forward and 30mm lower than std.
Rake on the front being 23.5* compared to 25* std. with forks 14mm through the trees and 5mm shorter dogbone to just lift the rear 15mm higher.
Once on level ground and I have a 0 point of reference, I took athe angle of the front forks via another gadjet in Rod's bag of tricks on the shelf.
Riding position and ergonomics was screwing around with what I originally set out to do with the modifications to frame and suspension, so now it's a matter of finding the peg clearance I need that's comfortable enough on my long legs without changing the nature of the bike as is..
Now I have the stability and manoverablity I was chasing in through the flip flops and through the mountain ranges plus the solid stable feeling through fast sweepers.
Before I started this rebuild around 15mths ago I had the same set up on std 41mm emulator forks (14mm) and dogbones (-5mm) R6 shock and was quite happy with the handling characteristics of the bike.
Now I've gained a much better feel just with suspension upgrades and the effortless nature with the lighter wheels.
As a comparrision
I tried running 10mm shorter (yzf750) dogbones a couple of years ago with the forks at std height and found it steered effortlessly but lost out in the fast sweepers with the bike moving around and starting to get a little unsettled once over 140kph and though the R6 shock felt a little firmer something was missing and didn't quite work right.
For those choosing to play with the handling, I would advocate trying the 177mm c to c dogbones and 14mm extra forks through the trees, run a 70 series tyre on the front for a really good compimise, giving improvements without sacrificing too much in stability.
I was really impressed too with Rod's TRX set up now with new tyres and his clip ons upside down and on the opposite fork giving a slightly more upright riding position on the std TRX850 set up.
It has me curious now what characteristics change for those who have gone with an R6/R1 tail conversion apart from estetics.
With a couple more thousand k's planned on these Michelin Pilot powers in the next few months, it will be time to look at tyre choice as a Xmas present and how that will effect things...
It will be nice having new rubber with a new motor inplace too...
That's a story in itself as today I popped in to see my mechanic and after finishing off the head .
Next mission is to pull the springs off the valves once again and fit lighter springs to check all clearances using a dial gauge and he will get back to me with a figure on the thickness of copper head gasket that will give me the optimum squish and clearance with the valves, as he said just incase I hit a netural and it gets a big rev all shall be good ..
So this will give me a little more time to play with the couple of gearboxes I have on the way....