I put on a Diversion 600 clutch cable, and re-routed the throttle cables to the RHS of the steering head - I disconnected them @ throttle end and lifted the carbs back to move the cables.
Brake hoses have to be longer to cope with tubular bars' extra height and pullback. Consider if you are fitting Bluespots as some have different mounting points for the brakeline. You could *probably* fit Fazer 600 brake lines if you're skint, but it's a 3 line setup and not as good as braided.
If your lines are braided, and you have bluespots fitted, you will need an R1 / R6 master cylinder and brake lever. Standard M/C will feel horrible - too hard to press lever in, believe me! You will also need to construct a way of holding the M/C in place.
Top yoke - not sure about drilling it - looks a bit flimsy for drillholes - would it be better to weld risers on instead? The thought of one breaking off doesnt bear thinking about!
I have an aftermarket top yoke on mine, kindly supplied by BillyBudge, so I'm not in the best position to advise here.
Fairing extension plates - I made my own up using door hinges from B&Q. Just raise fairing 15mm and forward about 30mm. Even so, you will still have to trim your RHS fairing, but only a little if you pick the right bars. I used Renthal Streetfighter 789 bars.
Horn wiring will have to be extended, other wiring is fine with minimal adjustments.
Standard mirrors, which are useless to start with need to be extended MUCH further on the fairing - two or three inches in order to see *anything* behind you.
Must post up a picture of the finished product.... I'll go out to the garage when it stops raining
![Crying or Very sad :cry:](./images/smilies/icon_cry.gif)