oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:03 am
Oh No! Ive just found a thick head of oil in my water header tank! theres no water in the oil but lots of oil in the water!http 
You'll be busy for a bit then. Page 1 of 2
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:23 am
Oh fek ! You'll be busy for a bit then.
You'll be busy for a bit then. Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 7:35 pm
And to cap it all I found a nail in my newish back tyre! so all to bits is is then!
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:13 pm
head gasket ,, not cheap ,, but on the bright side if its using oil do the stem seals while its in bits 
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:28 pm
Any possibility that it`s the oil seal behind the water pump folks?
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:35 pm
Im goin to start ripping it apart tommorow, an I'll keep you informed! Anyone got any tips for me as this will be the first time Ive pulled a TRX to bits, Ive got the haynes an factory manuals but would appreciate any hints!Mincehead wrote:Any possibility that it`s the oil seal behind the water pump folks?
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:39 pm
An inspect me whining 3rd cog likewise check on the emulsion tubes should really do valve clearances while its apart, Im sure I'll find some more jobs when I get her open, she has done nearly 40000 miles!steve speed wrote:head gasket ,, not cheap ,, but on the bright side if its using oil do the stem seals while its in bits
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:44 pm
Have you heard of this before then Mincehead?Mincehead wrote:Any possibility that it`s the oil seal behind the water pump folks?
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:46 pm
Experience told me to use the yamaha factory manual rather than haynes...Banger wrote:Im goin to start ripping it apart tommorow, an I'll keep you informed! Anyone got any tips for me as this will be the first time Ive pulled a TRX to bits, Ive got the haynes an factory manuals but would appreciate any hints!Mincehead wrote:Any possibility that it`s the oil seal behind the water pump folks?
If you need a new head gasket give me a holla and you can have one half price...
But if there is a blow out you should probably skim it a bit so it won´t happen again...
Watch out when you tourque down the inlet cam as there have been a few wich has pinched and spoiled camgear as a result.
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:52 pm
Cheers for that killerwhaleKillerwhale wrote:Experience told me to use the yamaha factory manual rather than haynes...Banger wrote:Im goin to start ripping it apart tommorow, an I'll keep you informed! Anyone got any tips for me as this will be the first time Ive pulled a TRX to bits, Ive got the haynes an factory manuals but would appreciate any hints!Mincehead wrote:Any possibility that it`s the oil seal behind the water pump folks?
If you need a new head gasket give me a holla and you can have one half price...
But if there is a blow out you should probably skim it a bit so it won´t happen again...
Watch out when you tourque down the inlet cam as there have been a few wich has pinched and spoiled camgear as a result.
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:58 pm
I recommend picking up some cheap sandwich bags,you get 30 or more for a little over a quid,then bag components as you start to strip it down.
I write on the bags with a permanent marker so as not to mix anything up,ie,right or left cylinder,inlet or exhaust valve collets etc,etc.
Valves can be put into a sheet of cardboard(push the stems through)then you can write which is which next to it,NEVER mix married components,accelerated wear or breakages are very likely if you do.
A good clean down prior to disassembly is a good idea too,as is a good quantity of clean,lint free rags.
A solvent/light lubricant such as WD40 is very handy as well,often something will move a little then grab up again,a quick squirt and move the item in both directions will often see it free up again.
There`s a parts list on here(sure somebody will point the thread out for you
)you can download it,print it off etc,very handy.
And don`t use ill fitting tools or worn screwdrivers etc,many a good bolt or screw has been `fooked` by old,worn or stretched tools.
And lastly,be methodical and don`t rush yourself,nice and calm,do it sensibly and I`m certain it`ll all go fine.One thing you can expect to find is the coolant stub being a mother fooker to get out of the head,you may find it corroded in and a 1/2" socket extension will fit nicely into it to enable you to `persuade` it by rocking it back and forth.
My original was so pickled it actually holed when I tried to remove it and my bike has only done just shy of 20,000 miles.
And remember,if you get stuck with anything,wash your hands,sit at the pc and ask for advice/guidance from us all.
I write on the bags with a permanent marker so as not to mix anything up,ie,right or left cylinder,inlet or exhaust valve collets etc,etc.
Valves can be put into a sheet of cardboard(push the stems through)then you can write which is which next to it,NEVER mix married components,accelerated wear or breakages are very likely if you do.
A good clean down prior to disassembly is a good idea too,as is a good quantity of clean,lint free rags.
A solvent/light lubricant such as WD40 is very handy as well,often something will move a little then grab up again,a quick squirt and move the item in both directions will often see it free up again.
There`s a parts list on here(sure somebody will point the thread out for you
)you can download it,print it off etc,very handy.And don`t use ill fitting tools or worn screwdrivers etc,many a good bolt or screw has been `fooked` by old,worn or stretched tools.
And lastly,be methodical and don`t rush yourself,nice and calm,do it sensibly and I`m certain it`ll all go fine.One thing you can expect to find is the coolant stub being a mother fooker to get out of the head,you may find it corroded in and a 1/2" socket extension will fit nicely into it to enable you to `persuade` it by rocking it back and forth.
My original was so pickled it actually holed when I tried to remove it and my bike has only done just shy of 20,000 miles.
And remember,if you get stuck with anything,wash your hands,sit at the pc and ask for advice/guidance from us all.
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:27 pm
Thanks MH
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 9:47 pm
I`ve not`personally` heard of the TRX water pump spindle seal doing this but my MuZ Skorpion seal went(SZR660/XTZ660 motor).Yamaha only list the pump as a unit,I rebuilt mine utilising a suitable O ring in behind the rotary lip seal and it`s been fine ever since.
Yamaha wanted around 200 quid just for a water pump assembly!
Yamaha wanted around 200 quid just for a water pump assembly!
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:06 pm
Waterpumpb seal might be a culprit. I think the one from an YZF 750 might be the same, and sold separately. I can check tomorrow, or do a search here.
What KW says about cams is def true. Even if torqueing the bolts to 10 Nm, this might be too much. Check that the cams run freely, and use Loctite for the bolts. Lube excessively with moly/oil mix, and be sure oil is coming from the tellhole on LH head before firing her up after the rebuildand You'll be fine!
What KW says about cams is def true. Even if torqueing the bolts to 10 Nm, this might be too much. Check that the cams run freely, and use Loctite for the bolts. Lube excessively with moly/oil mix, and be sure oil is coming from the tellhole on LH head before firing her up after the rebuildand You'll be fine!
Re: oil in header tank
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:08 am
Cheers for all of your advice chaps, could anyone point me in the right direction for the parts list MH mentioned, Im off to me mates fully equipped garage after breakfast to start the rip down, wish me luck!!