oil filter housing bolts

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oil filter housing bolts

Postby billy budge » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:38 pm

eh up to you all

just after a general opinion on what people do with the 6mm bolts when reinstalling them in the oil filter housing.

local yamaha dealer suggests 10nm but it feels horrible around 5nm, like they will strip at any moment. i usually just nip them up but always had a slight oil weep there even with new o rings??

whats the verdict then??

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Postby youngy » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:40 pm

just done mine at the spec in the manual which is 10nm. Know what you mean though - didn't feel very comfortable with it.

Might even be worth investing in new bolts in case they've been overtightened in the past and stretched.
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Postby PhatVR6 » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:58 pm

I wouldn't even dream of torquing up a 6mm bolt into alloy.

just do what feels right.
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Postby Kevtrx849 » Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:11 pm

I use a socket on a screw driver type handle and just do them up as tight as i can. Never had a problem in 7 years and never replaced the O rings either. Thats about 15 filters in that time and not one leak. 8)
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Postby burty » Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:44 pm

Never feels right doing them up to 10nm. I do them as tight as I dare and no more.
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Postby twolfe » Thu Jun 21, 2007 12:02 am

Just do them up till the leak stops. I have had the unfortunate experience of trying to do them up to 10nm, when SNAPPO. Like Martin says new bolts might help if you are unsure. I think mine had been stretched by previous owner/mechanic so I didn't realise until it was too late.
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Postby Shifty » Thu Jun 21, 2007 8:57 am

If its possible use threadends instead of bolts.
The wire end can stay and you can easily remove the housing by loosen the nuts instead of the bolts.

So you save the alloy thread.

Just a thought but maybe not possible due to the space ya have.
With the XT600 theres space enough, its a great solution for things you have to remove often.

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Postby Doyle171 » Thu Jun 21, 2007 1:14 pm

It's like walking on egg shells.. i didn't dare go as far at 10nm
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Postby billy budge » Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:47 pm

Thanks chaps

Tightened them up as far as i dare, roughly 7nm, and no weeps as yet.
While im here could anyone tell me how i go about posting pics of my bike on this here forum please.

Reckon ive got a chance of making it on trx of the month!!

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Postby phuk72 » Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:58 pm

join a free photo hosting site like http://www.photobucket.com

upload your photo from your pc

paste the img tag into a post
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Postby Quan-Time » Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:13 am

as a few ppl said, DONT torque up 6mm bolts into alloy.. its just... its not smart...

if you have a new gasket and got everything cleaned and ready... tighten "finger" tight.. meaning, put a socket on the bolt, tighten is as much as you can.. then tighten it between a quarter and half rotation.. thats gonna be close to 6nm right there. and thats plenty.

On many old cars (i just heard the audience gasp !) they used to advise X nm torque + 90deg.. that helped eliminate bolt stretch... until they realised they can just replace the damn bolts with new ones.... duh.
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Postby billy budge » Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:25 am

Cheers phuk, i will give that a try as soon as i get the decent ones uploaded to my pc.

Quantime - please believe me when i say that the 7nm was just a guess mate, there was no way in hell i was going anywhere near those bolts with a torque wrench.
As you say i did fingertight and then half a turn more, then called it a day.
Just for peace of mind i will replace the bolts next time around.
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Postby Quan-Time » Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:54 am

you wont get bolt stretch,, you will get thread stretch... meaning, you will never strip the bolts, but you will strip the alloy thread in the casing.. changing bolts wont do shit difference.. however.. you CAN go stainless as it tends to "bite" alloy well and yer.. holds tight.. but honestly, i wouldnt bother..
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