oil filter housing bolts
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- billy budge
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oil filter housing bolts
eh up to you all
just after a general opinion on what people do with the 6mm bolts when reinstalling them in the oil filter housing.
local yamaha dealer suggests 10nm but it feels horrible around 5nm, like they will strip at any moment. i usually just nip them up but always had a slight oil weep there even with new o rings??
whats the verdict then??
cheers.
just after a general opinion on what people do with the 6mm bolts when reinstalling them in the oil filter housing.
local yamaha dealer suggests 10nm but it feels horrible around 5nm, like they will strip at any moment. i usually just nip them up but always had a slight oil weep there even with new o rings??
whats the verdict then??
cheers.
speeding?......me?.......with my reputation?
- Kevtrx849
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- burty
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- Shifty
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If its possible use threadends instead of bolts.
The wire end can stay and you can easily remove the housing by loosen the nuts instead of the bolts.
So you save the alloy thread.
Just a thought but maybe not possible due to the space ya have.
With the XT600 theres space enough, its a great solution for things you have to remove often.
Cheers
The wire end can stay and you can easily remove the housing by loosen the nuts instead of the bolts.
So you save the alloy thread.
Just a thought but maybe not possible due to the space ya have.
With the XT600 theres space enough, its a great solution for things you have to remove often.
Cheers
- billy budge
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- phuk72
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join a free photo hosting site like http://www.photobucket.com
upload your photo from your pc
paste the img tag into a post
upload your photo from your pc
paste the img tag into a post
- Quan-Time
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as a few ppl said, DONT torque up 6mm bolts into alloy.. its just... its not smart...
if you have a new gasket and got everything cleaned and ready... tighten "finger" tight.. meaning, put a socket on the bolt, tighten is as much as you can.. then tighten it between a quarter and half rotation.. thats gonna be close to 6nm right there. and thats plenty.
On many old cars (i just heard the audience gasp !) they used to advise X nm torque + 90deg.. that helped eliminate bolt stretch... until they realised they can just replace the damn bolts with new ones.... duh.
if you have a new gasket and got everything cleaned and ready... tighten "finger" tight.. meaning, put a socket on the bolt, tighten is as much as you can.. then tighten it between a quarter and half rotation.. thats gonna be close to 6nm right there. and thats plenty.
On many old cars (i just heard the audience gasp !) they used to advise X nm torque + 90deg.. that helped eliminate bolt stretch... until they realised they can just replace the damn bolts with new ones.... duh.
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- billy budge
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Cheers phuk, i will give that a try as soon as i get the decent ones uploaded to my pc.
Quantime - please believe me when i say that the 7nm was just a guess mate, there was no way in hell i was going anywhere near those bolts with a torque wrench.
As you say i did fingertight and then half a turn more, then called it a day.
Just for peace of mind i will replace the bolts next time around.
Quantime - please believe me when i say that the 7nm was just a guess mate, there was no way in hell i was going anywhere near those bolts with a torque wrench.
As you say i did fingertight and then half a turn more, then called it a day.
Just for peace of mind i will replace the bolts next time around.
speeding?......me?.......with my reputation?
- Quan-Time
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you wont get bolt stretch,, you will get thread stretch... meaning, you will never strip the bolts, but you will strip the alloy thread in the casing.. changing bolts wont do shit difference.. however.. you CAN go stainless as it tends to "bite" alloy well and yer.. holds tight.. but honestly, i wouldnt bother..
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