Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Please share your secrets! What mods have you made to your TRX?

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Killerwhale
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Killerwhale » Thu Feb 27, 2014 10:06 am

dandywarhol wrote:Painful butt plug?
Painful?










:lol:
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Tourqe-a-holic

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dicky
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by dicky » Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:32 pm

To expand on my possibly too cryptic previous reply...

A screw is a fastener that is torqued by the head and mounts into a pre-threaded hole or created its own thread in pre-drilled hole or even creates it own hole and thread (ie self tapper)
Nothing at all to do with how much of the shank is threaded. (good wood screws are not threaded all the way to the head)

A bolt may be torqued by the head but is also torqued by a nut attached to the threaded part of the shank.

Many 'bolts' can be used a screws, ie mounted into a pre-threaded hole.
Some screws can be used a bolts, just put a nut on the end and "hey presto, it's a bolt!"

A coach bolt is a good example of the difference. It can not be torqued by the head and must be used with a nut.

dicky
<probably wrong>

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dandywarhol
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by dandywarhol » Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:50 pm

Sigh......................
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by andyaber » Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:21 pm

But can you tell the difference between Stork margerine and Pepsi cola?

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cycloneranger
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by cycloneranger » Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:48 pm

andyaber wrote:But can you tell the difference between Stork margerine and Pepsi cola?
They make margerine from storks!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
Keep calm and topp up the oil

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Rod.s
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Rod.s » Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:24 pm

dicky wrote:To expand on my possibly too cryptic previous reply...

A screw is a fastener that is torqued by the head and mounts into a pre-threaded hole or created its own thread in pre-drilled hole or even creates it own hole and thread (ie self tapper)
Nothing at all to do with how much of the shank is threaded. (good wood screws are not threaded all the way to the head)

A bolt may be torqued by the head but is also torqued by a nut attached to the threaded part of the shank.

Many 'bolts' can be used a screws, ie mounted into a pre-threaded hole.
Some screws can be used a bolts, just put a nut on the end and "hey presto, it's a bolt!"

A coach bolt is a good example of the difference. It can not be torqued by the head and must be used with a nut.

dicky
<probably wrong>
Now you are getting carpentry and engineering confused :wink: What you have said is potentially correct but does not apply in this case. In carpentry there are a wide and varied number of fasteners that are used for specific purposes, these have little or no use in engineering, although i have bough bikes over the years that are held together by them :?
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Tarwetijger » Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:16 pm

Tarwetijger wrote:Paintwork almost done. This is what it will look like. 8)
Rest of the engine is black.
Image
Changed my mind. :roll:

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Before
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After
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Gave it a good clean before fitting the engine back.
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by alextrx850 » Sat Mar 15, 2014 12:32 am

Did the Samco hoses come with the clamps ?
Looks good the silver barells and cam cover, ever thought of clean shaving the fake cooling fins?...something different.

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Tarwetijger » Sat Mar 15, 2014 8:58 am

Yes but is was a €€ option. The clamps are heavier and bigger than the originals.
The fins on the cilinders are sanded blanc! On the head I thought the color difference would be too little to make sense.

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Tarwetijger » Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:18 pm

Finally: ready for a test drive!

Image

The engine runs well, the handling was terrible... because the tires were still let off for the trackday of last year (about 1.3 bar was left). Inflated them and everything went well!
But... (yes there is a but), I fitted an oil pressure switch light, the Eisi kit, I had it for a long time. The light started to flicker at tick over while the engine was warming up. Man, this really makes me nervous! The banjo bolts I used, had bigger holes than the original bolts that came out. But this shouldn't make to much of a difference. The switch is on the banjo bolt on the cil.head, so almost on the end of the oil-circuit.It reminded me of the inlet cam that turned heavily (see the beginning of this topic) went I took the engine apart. I will have a look for an oil pressure gauge instead of the switch, so I will know a little more.
Any thoughts on this? What are the experiences from others with the Eisi kit?

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(engine not running on this pic).

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by spondontrx » Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:34 pm

Hi Tarwe , glad to hear she's running
I think there's a reason for the special banjo bolts in the feed line to the cilinder head , if the holes are bigger there's less pressure in the line . causing to much oil to the head (and your warning light to go on) and less elsewhere.
I don't know if it could cause any damage or not ,but I would change that (or at least one off the bolts)

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Tarwetijger » Fri Mar 28, 2014 6:35 pm

Thank you for thinking along Theo.
It is easy to try the other bolts of course, so that's what I will do.
Also ordered an oil gauge and 20w50 oil. I'll see what happens. :roll:

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by cobbadiggabuddyblooo » Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:39 pm

8) up and running again .. Good to here mate. Nice finish on the motor to give it its own character . Did you ride it hard to bed those rings using all that low/ midrange torque for the 1st 20 min???
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by Tarwetijger » Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:13 am

Thanks.
Image

About running in, I am not so sure. There is a lot of discussion online, I dont want to start here another one. On one hand I want to be very gentle, on the other hand it is almost impossible, to stay under 3000 rpm if you want to go along in normal traffic.
And of course I am just curious how it accelerates :oops:

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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works

Post by dandywarhol » Sat Mar 29, 2014 12:32 pm

In my opinion, don't treat it too gently or you'll end up with glazed bores and oil consumption. Short bursts of acceleration (but not full load) initially then build up the load to bed the rings in.
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white

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