Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Hi all!

I am new to this site and also to working on bikes.
So all of this may sound very stupid but,

I was wondering if any one had fully written up a brake conversion to blue (or gold) spots.

I have seen there is alot of chat on the topic. But there is still gaps in my knowledge.

For example: Do I need to get the R6 discs when I change to blue spots? What year blue spots will match (is it anything prior to radial mount)?
Will I need to change the Master cylinder ?

Any and ALL help is really appreciated!

Hi Tommy, and welcome .

It's a long time ago now but as far as I remember,it's just a case of unbolting the std calipers and bolting in the blue spots.Std discs are fine,R6 discs don't fit a std Trx wheel. The only issue I recall is the brake line cranked ends to fit the R6 calipers. The R6 calipers will have much more "feel" if you also use the R6 master cylinder.

Good luck with the conversion.

Mark.

Evenin
I have blue spots on both my trx and they are std on my 9er.
I have used R6 masters on the trx with braided lines from R6 '03 to '04
With success.
Good luck

Just unbolt the standard calipers and bolt on the blue-spots. Yes, the end connection banjo's are angled differently but it's no big deal. I made a couple of spacers to go under the brake line guides , but I'm like that. Braided lines make a difference to the feel and performance too. I still have the standard master cylinder which seems perfectly good for road use.
Folks will say that properly set up standard calipers & pads are all you need , but I found the change to blue-spots an immediate improvement (by about 150%)
Nearly forgot ... the most important thing is to make sure you bleed the system properly !!

.

Kayla's business (Projection Components) can supply those bolts at a fraction of that cost

Mark.

Moved the thread to a more suitable section of the forum

I've had my Blue Spots on since '07 and hardly a problem. (R6 '03)
Matched up with Kayla's titanium bolts and carbon look HEL braided lines to a std TRX MC.
The only problem you will find is your bike gets covered in brake dust as the Blue/Gold/Silver Spots don't have a cover on them like the std Sumitomos

Bob

Yes, bloody things work so well but
Are so damn dirty

.

I fitted a complete 02 R6 brake set up lines and all to mine. Very small amount of messing around with mounts but easy otherwise.

MM

Hey, Thanks to all of you who replied!
So much good information. Sorry I have been away for a month and had no chance to reply until now.

So if I go the way of braided lines (I am leaning that way.)
Do I use TRX ones or R6 ones? Will the only difference be length?

Thanks again.

Tommy.

Specify WHAT you need to a GOOD brake line manufacturer:

http://www.venhill.co.uk/

You won`t buy better, custom made and the highest of quality.

Okay so I can't work out (much at all )
What the differences would be between the r6 braided lines and the TRX ones..
&
Weather to buy a new r6 master cylinder or a second hand one?

Can some one clear this up for me?

I am replacing my whole front brake system because my TRX one has about and inch of leverage on the leaver before the brake engages at all. After which the brakes work fine I just end up with the leaver on the bar before full brakes are engaged.

Things I have checked;
leaver settings. -the best one still leaves me with an inch of 'no brake' before engage.
I have bled and bled and bled the brakes, NO air. & the slack or 'no brake' doesn't feel like air being compressed.
my brake pads are slightly worn - no where near enough to account for the slack.
I have bought and installed a new TRX master cylinder kit with no improvement.

All I can think of is that there is ALOT of give in the lines I have.

But I still want to replace the master cylinder just because I don't want to just put lines and calipers on and find I have the same problem.

Can ANYONE help me
PLEASE

Kind regards,
Tommy.

The stock TRX calipers ain`t too good to be honest, they`re adequate but the difference between them and the blue, silver or gold spots is like night and day!
The calipers from the later R1`s and 6`s are simply more rigid.
I reckon you have some micro air bubbles lurking in your system. Try pulling the lever back to the bars as hard as you can, release a bleed nipple just enough to allow the lever to come to rest hard on the grip then cable tie the lever there for 24 hours with the reservoir cap off to allow any micro bubbles to rise back to the top of the system.
DO NOT forget to tighten the bleed nipple though.