R1 front end handling question???

Post by **Max** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:14 am

twolfe wrote:I'll knock it up today and post it off.

That doesn't sound very responsible. Shame on you!

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:09 am

greg: heh,,, talk about a quick and easy fix.. I sorta went the long winded method... I like your idea actually... such a simple little thing.. The only problem i see with it is the front will be dropped more than i would personally find comfortable. Thats why i went crazy on mine to keep the ride height the same..

Either way, show us final pics when your done.. Good to see other ppls engineering feats !! (or as my mates say "quangineering"... yer.. go figgure)

Post by **Max** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:53 am

Quan-Time,

Being that you're the machinist type around here. I wonder if you've seen my "adjustable dogbones" I made up for mine. Very handy for working out ride height problems and weight transfer at the track.

http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40

I don't think I listed full specs there, but I can probably measure them fairly easily on the bike if you're interested in a set, or perhaps manufacturing them for others here that might be interested.

Post by **Max** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:04 pm

Also, you might want to check my front (and rear, for that matter) maintenance / storage stand for yourself and others down under.

I would recommend using larger diameter, thinner wall tubing. Mine is heavier than it needs to be with the thick wall pipe I had at the time...

http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56

Greg · Post by **Greg** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:09 pm

Quant... I might be being a bit dense (and yes Jak - it has been known!) but it looks to me that your ride height will be affected by the shorter length of the R1 fork leg in any case ...I've just had a closer look at your pic and realised that you've effectively put your spacer under the yoke... neat! I'm assuming that you pushed the TRX stem a little further into the bottom yoke - when mine was assembled the stem was still too long by about 9mm, so I couldn't tighten the head-race nuts. I ended up grinding an old race to the right thickness and using that as a spacer to mount the bottom race further up the stem (did I explain that ok?). That way the threaded section of the stem was in the right place with reference to the top surface of the top yoke. I guess all I need to do now is flip the spacer under the yoke and get a proper washer for the top... Ride height will still drop by the thickness of the spacer though ...

ahhhh second look/thought, those extensions for the handlebars... the forklegs are secured down there eh? This surely leaves you with the top of the forkleg well below the top face of the yoke? ... I guess you've turned up a leedle plug to fill it ...

Nice solution though, although my preference would have been to manufacture an adjustable handlebar mount on top of the yoke... that as Max has seen will prevent the bar/yoke being damaged in the event of an off...

I still wish I could weld Aluminium though

G

Post by **Kevtrx849** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:48 am

If ride height gets to be a problem theres a solution. a company in the states called Traxxion Dynamics make a billet fork extension that screws into the top of the leg allowing you to drop your forks down another 20mm. They are $100 US each but i'm sure you guys with the machinery could knock them out.
They make a good kit too for working on USD units.
CYA, Kev.

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:31 am

greg: yes i have machined my stork slightly to make the top triple clamp bolt on properly.. It did as you say stick out way too much. During the "dry fit" i found this and adjusted accordingly.

Before i pulled the TRX forks out,, i measure from ground to bars / top triple clamp and the bike actually sits identical height now.
Most of the weight of the rider / bike is secured by the bottom triple clamp, the top is for strength and support.. the forks are ~half way up or just above the middle bolt.. Concidering it was originally only one bolt on the top clamp, now its 2ish .. its plenty strong.

i DO have plans to make clipons but this was the quickest method to get me back on the road. As for welding alu,, i DIDNT do any of this welding, currently im not allowed (unionised work shop, and coz im a machinist, im not a welder..) altho i AM a qualified welder and do actually do it fairly often.. Im a contractor tradesman so one month im a machinist, next month im a welder.. Im qualified for high tensile (think "lifting lugs" up to 90t, but i DONT have high pressure vessel,, so im not allowed where i am)..

kev: would you believe i did actually think of that idea AFTER i assembled my forks back together.. and didnt want to reseal the whole things again.. I have the materials and the measurements to make them and almost did.. Such is life.

max: like the adjustable dogbone idea,, simple yet effective.. I made an adjustable one for a kwaka ZX9, yammy R1 and a few tests for the TRX.

As for the front stand.. nice.. ive not even noticed that bolt hole there. I would have however done it slightly differently.

I would have had a spring loaded version on each side. So at rest the pins would be wanting to push towards the centre (or towards eachother) and put a ring on the outside.. when you pull the ring they slide out, but spring back into the frame.. Hope you understand.. Coz if that bar bent slightly, would provide much annoyance to get it in..

I might actually make one now.. cheers for the idea !

If anyone DOES want adjustable dog bones, i can make them fairly easily.. i DONT have a LH tap, but i can easily get one, and eyelets are plentyful around my parts (well, gotta buy em, but i know where a local supplier is.. nice stainless ones aswell) Dont need to measure, i can easily fix that up and make it suit. Ill have a quick hunt around and see if i can find some hex alu, if not. ill just make some.. only take me like 10mins to put hex onto round bar..

Wait till you see my finished dash.. Not the best work ive done, actually its fairly rushed so i can get it on for when i leave for the SBK in PI next week, but with the time ive had, sohuld be good.

And ive got MORE planned after that (providing the missus lets me, we are about to get a house and she is pregnant atm.. so MUCH in life is changing,, if i dont do this now, ill NEVER get a chance !!)

meemo_meh · Post by **meemo_meh** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 8:49 am

when I first did the conversion I found that over the fast-speed rebound bumps it was headshaking quite badly, which quickly brought back memories of an R6 that I once owned..... :-S
since then I had Ohlins internals put in (0.85 springs, large oriface, and more shim stacks). After a few months of getting the suspension right now he handles like a beaut!

Greg · Post by **Greg** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:12 pm

Bloody hell, those fork extenders are lovely!

Post by **Max** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:42 pm

Greg, they only extend the tubes on the front of motorcycles. Don't get too excited.

twolfe · Post by **twolfe** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 12:47 am

Max strikes again

Greg · Post by **Greg** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:02 am

Damn - and I was just about to call the Teutuls over at Orange County lol...

heh-heh-heh.......heh-heh ..."Hey Beavis!.. He was just talking about extending his tube !!" heh-heh

Post by **Max** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:10 am

Maybe this is what you were looking for...

http://proextender.com/

Ridgifumi · Post by **Ridgifumi** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:12 am

looks like some sort of robot reading the paper,or maybe i've just had too many bourbons

Post by **Max** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:30 am

You only use one eye to read the paper?

Definately too much bourbon...