TRX Restoration Project

[Con Rod]

Hi Paul,
How did the gauze filter look inside the sump and the dry sump . I found a quite a lot of gunk inside the tank on this gauze filter when I pulled my motor down and a long stringy piece of silicone about 3" long on the other down the bottom.

I have not had the oil tank off since I did the rebuild so thats 2 years now, but I suspect it would be fine. I will have a look though and let you know.

Regarding the dry sump I will also have a look.

[Con Rod]

Work has continued on this.

Valves came out of the head and I cleaned up the exhaust ones to go back in





The inlet valves have been replaced with new ones and lust as well really. You can see from the photo below, this is one of the inlet valves and clearly the face has scalloped out. As mentioned by others, clearly the valves dont stretch, the valve faces wear away



This is one of the new inlet valves for comparison



With the valves out I cleaned up the head ready for the exhaust and new inlet valves to be lapped in and installed with new valve stem seals




then is was on to the valves

[Con Rod]

I had my new inlet valves and the requisite tools for lapping them and the exhaust valves in





Lapping the valves in:




then installed the valves with the new stem seals and some moly

[Con Rod]

with that job done I turned by attention to the barrels.

I used a Flex-hone to hone them, which worked a treat. For oil I just used some 5w 30 oil I had for the car. Basically just a case of oil up the flex-hone, oil up the barrels and hone. I used a battery drill as the lower RPM made it easy to get a good cross hatch. Took at of about 25 second honing time

this is the hone. I gave it a good coffering of oil before I started


In this picture you can see the top cylinder is done, the bottom is not


Both cylinders honed




Measured up everything and all well within spec with the exception of the intake valves

I have new rings to go on the pistons then just have to put everything back together

[dandywarhol]

Good pics - especially the inlet valve! 4 out of 6 of mine had minus zero clearance at 9500 miles!

Thoroughly scrub the honed barrels with soapy water and dry off with clean white rags until the rags are still clean. These honing tools work well but leave deposits on the bore.

[Con Rod]

Good pics - especially the inlet valve! 4 out of 6 of mine had minus zero clearance at 9500 miles!

Thoroughly scrub the honed barrels with soapy water and dry off with clean white rags until the rags are still clean. These honing tools work well but leave deposits on the bore.

Thanks for the tips, they are back on the engine now, but yes I thoroughly cleaned them after honing

[Con Rod]

Ok, so progress report on this is the bike is now back on the road.

I mentioned on another thread I think that the new valves went in with the shims that came with the bike new. So all the 186, 182 etc original shims. Pretty impressive manufacturing tolerances from Yamaha and pretty much confirms no wear on the valve seats.

Other than that I painted the barrels and the head as they were looking a bit worse for wear.



Went back together pretty much without issue except for me damaging the wires for the stator but got that sorted and have been running it in pretty hard. Did my first oil change after about 150km and the oil was murky with metal dust from the bed in. 2nd lot os oil has been in there now for about 70km and is staying much cleaner, will change it again at 500km.

Load of compression and running beautifully



When I was putting it back together I notice my neutral switch has 3 wires comming out of it but only one is used, for the neutral light. The other 2 work for 4th and 5th so I decided to make use of them and added a yellow and blue LED, which come on for 4th and 5th respectively. A bit pointless but just felt like fettling.

[Dav]

Bike looks great

[Rod.s]

Looking like a new one!

[dandywarhol]

Do these contacts restrict the max speed in 4th and 5th on the imports?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

No that's on the speedo and works in with you ECU.
There's a magnet on a disc that is positioned on the taco needle axle and another 2 magnets positioned at 0kph and 180kph.
When the magnets align on 0 or 180 kph this sends the signal to the ECU for the limiter to come into play.
So even if you try to disconnect your speedo cable , with the needle at 0kph , the limiter still kicks in..
Being the inquisitive type , I had a spare 180kph import speedo and pulled it apart to find out.
Find a 300kph speedo from a yzf750 dash or a trashed Trx one and put that in.

[dandywarhol]

Thanks, I just remembered, some years back, when I fitted a TRX engine to a TDM, the TDM had 3 wires to the one wire on the TRX (UK model).

Do you know why they are different?

[Con Rod]

my motor is a grey import but the rest of the bike is Australian delivered so could be that it is used on the grey import bikes.

My old bike a Yamaha Zeal had an overdrive light which was triggered in 6th by an extra contact on the neutral switch.

To be honest I just put it down to sharing parts across models

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Makes sense being a parts bin model..

[davamb]

To be honest I just put it down to sharing parts across models

But only the grey imports had the 3-contact switch?