Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

I thought I would start this thread as at least two members have spoken of forearm, wrist or finger pain involved with riding their TRX`s and using the clutch specifically.
Excuse the cut and paste from another reply in another thread but here`s my ideas on this:

Go for a hydraulic conversion. Utilise say a ZZR1100 slave cylinder, anything can be done if you want to do it enough (within reason).
One of the Dutch sidecar racers has made a very nice hydraulic clutch actuator for his 1190 `something` XS650 based outfit motor and the clutch action is as light as a feather, he used a small scooter brake caliper and modified it to suit his needs.
For the TRX clutch cover an outrigger would need making but the actuating rod is dead centre of the cover, piece of wee wee to the right engineer.
You could even go for one of the Hymex units, here`s one for the SR4 and 500`s by my old favourite company Venhills:

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Magura_Control ... RSION.html

Not an arm and a leg now is it, not for a more comfortable experience anyway.
In fact looking at this Fazer 6 one it might well do for a TRX too:

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Magura_Clutch_ ... _ROAD.html

You need to ascertain the travel required and the bracketry, nipple type etc.

Alternatively buy just the slave cylinder, make your own brackets, use your own master cylinder and plumb it in and Bobs your aunties husband!

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Magura_Control ... INDER.html

Its on the to do list Mince

Dave E

Well it would help with the forearm issue you experience for sure Dave.

Saw this one a while back at evilbay...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

I have a few jobs to do on it this winter, cosmetic and pratical!

Dave E

Another outlet:

http://www.in-chains.co.uk/motorcycle/O ... ERSION.htm

Mincehead wrote:Another outlet:

http://www.in-chains.co.uk/motorcycle/O ... ERSION.htm

i would be concerned all the work fitting something onto the middle outer of the clutch might come undone if the machine simply fell ..however if one of these could be fitted to still use the existing lever system [at the cable linkage] it wouldnt affect the asthetic features and the clean lines of the clutch cover..otherwise fit a modded actuator from another bike into the inside and run the hydraulic line down the lever shaft...

Yes agreed, although it involves more engineering it could still be done by anyone competant.
The retrofit hydraulic actuating system will definately be the best way to go though, it`s simply working out the travel required and perhaps repositioning the actuator / bracketry.

A lad I know who builds lot of very trick special made a hydraulic clutch conversion for his Fireblade street fiighter by converting a small rear brake Brembo style master cylinder into a slave cylinder by blocking of the resivoir feed hole then forcing the fluid into the outlet of the cylinder which then pushes the `actuating rod` out, he may of turned the seals around, It worked very well.

Yep can be simply done in this way too, although you are somewhat limited by travel.
Think how much stroke is on a rear master cylinder, certainly no more than 30 to 40 mm I would have thought.
Mind, that`s plenty enough to lift a clutch drum if the supporting bracketry, leverage and adjustment was worked out carefully. Oh and obviously the actuating lever would need to be reversed as a TRX clutch operating arm is pulled, not pushed.

sorry guys, but I have had a feww berrs and after reading this , I would say the best operation for a easy clutch is to simply HTFU!

HTFU? Spell it in an alternative way if it`s on the raunchy side or I won`t be able to read your reply from here.

Sorry Mince, it is Aussie slang for ( Harden the fuk Up)

On a positive note here is what I would fit if you wish to go the soft clutch option: Like as suggested above, and it is amazing how the price varies...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magura-Hydra ... 45fc313eec

How about one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EASY-CLUTCH-M ... 2c5aae008d , some MX clutch levers have 2 or 3 different positions for the cable to fit into to change the pulling force needed

Yep that`ll work too and a much cheaper fix. Simply works by utilising pulleys to multiply the lever force on the cable.