R1 Forks - Impulse Buy

burty · Post by **burty** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:02 am

I agree with the sentiments about the R6 master cylinder. It gives far better feel, without compromising the braking ability of course. Well worth doing IMO.

tz250w · Post by **tz250w** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:26 am

Or... (drum beating...)

You could pop for a brembo radial and forever wonder why (and how) you ever rode with anything else.

Peter850 · Post by **Peter850** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:37 am

Any more along on the R1 front end yet Olputt?

Peter850 · Post by **Peter850** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:03 am

Well come on man , what's the update then!

Olputt · Post by **Olputt** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:19 am

G'Day Pete,

Not much to report - It's been put on the back burner for now.

The guy sent the pad clips but now I need to find some pad shims (Grrrr)

All my spare cash is going towards Conveyancing. We've bought a property at a place called Wyangala, near Bathurst (36 Acres of High Country) Settlement is due for 12:00 today

I've not even cleaned the bike since Phillip Island

Post by **Max** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:09 am

Olputt wrote:G'Day Pete,

Not much to report - It's been put on the back burner for now.

...

I've not even cleaned the bike since Phillip Island

SLACKER! Priorities man... Priorities!

Peter850 · Post by **Peter850** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:09 pm

Good work getting your own dirt bike track you lucky boy. When you get back to the front end job would you please keep a list of stuff you needed AND the prices so that others here in Oz can relate. It's great to hear about the Pom and Euro storys too, but the stupid prices we pay here are not even in the same ballpark ( something about being at the bottom of the world and blaa blaa blaa) with our northern friends.Cheers.

Olputt · Post by **Olputt** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:39 am

G'Day Pete,

If you want to start your shopping list I paid $500 for the forks and $112 for the calipers - both Oz ebay items. The forks are in great condition and came of a 91 mod R1. The forks have been re-valved and sprung with K-tech stuff but I have no idea how they will perform with the weight of a TRX.

I'll let you know what the rest costs as it comes to hand.

And as for the private dirt bike track - I took delivery of a brand new 75cc thumpstar (knockoff) a month before we settled. (my boys new pride and joy)

cheap_trix · Post by **cheap_trix** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:49 am

Hey Nick!
I didn't know you had kids.

As for the R1 calipers, I bought bluespots and master cylinder off evilbay 6 months ago but havn't installed them yet. The thought of fully draining the fluid and then filling from scratch is a bit daunting. Any tips guys?
I would really like to get braided lines to install at the same time but they aint cheap. Guess I can always do it later.

Olputt · Post by **Olputt** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 3:58 am

Bleeding brakes is simple enough.

Before you start, find yourself an orchy bottle and a piece of rubber hose (NO this is not a bong building class) The hose you are looking for needs to be of soft rubber, clear (to see the fluid through) and the right diameter to fit snugly over the bleed nipple on your calipers. Make a hole in the lid of the bottle for the hose. Put one end of the hose firmly over the bleed nipple and the other end in the juice bottle through the hole in the lid. (Tip ÃƒÂ¢Ã¢â€šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Å“ make another small hole in the lid to let the pressure out of the bottle, otherwise the build up of pressure in the bottle from the bleeding process will spray fluid all over the place)

Now for bleeding,

1. Remove the reservoir cap and fill with fluid (keep an eye on your fluid level throughout the process as if it empties you will be pumping air into the lines and will need to start again)

2. Using a ring spanner, loosen the bleed nipple

3. Fully engage the front brake (brake fluid will pass from the bleed
nipple into the juice bottle via the rubber hose)

4. Tighten the bleed nipple

5. Release the front brake

6. Replace Reservoir cap

Repeat steps 2 to 5 until the fluid coming out is free of bubbles, and then repeat a few more times just to be safe.

Post by **Max** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:09 am

I might add that it's best to apply pressure to the brake lever before loosening the nipple and closing it before you reach the end of each, and especially the last stroke. Otherwise, you run the risk of letting air back through the nipple.

cheap_trix · Post by **cheap_trix** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:41 am

Thats all pretty straight forward but is it the same procedure if you are starting from scratch, with no fluid in the lines and calipers at all?

Olputt · Post by **Olputt** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 5:51 am

Yes - Just takes a bit longer and a fair bit of brake fluid. I did mine when I put the braided lines on and it was straight forward enough. In most cases if you do stuff up the air will rise back into the master cylinder anyway and you may notice a drop in fluid level. If this happens just give them another quick bleed.

Don't think it makes any difference which side you start on. What do you think Max

Post by **Max** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 6:07 am

Don't think it matters... You still have to get all the air out anyhow.

The quickest way is to have a suction bleeder to draw the air and fluid through.

If starting from scratch, and you haven't yet tightened the lines on the master cylinder end, it helps to bleed that first. With the the master cylinder banjo bolt finger tight, give it a few pumps, loosen the banjo and repeat a few times then tighten it up and start the proceedure. Make SURE you have something to catch any fluid dripping (a rag) and give it a good wipe down (and hose down when you're all done) if you drip any. It WILL eat paint.

cheap_trix · Post by **cheap_trix** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:20 am

Max wrote

if you drip any. It WILL eat paint.

That was one of my concerns.
Would it be easier if I removed the whole lot in one go and do the change over on a bench?
The R1 calipers and master cylinder came complete with the lines intact. Its a pitty that the hose to frame brakets are different. could of just bolted them on. But I guess that the lines are a different length too.