Throttle Tube.

[Trx envy]

Just wondering if anyone has switched to a quicker or progressive throttle tube . Would any dirtbike tube work? Seems like a cheap way to get a bit more rideability.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

I use a 06 R6 throttle tube assembly. It’s a 60* throttle action compared to the 82* std.
You need the whole assembly due to the larger cable attachment wheel on the tube.
The thing is the trx has CV carbies std so doesn’t matter how fast you open the throttle because manifold vacuum dicates how fast the slides lift.
Unless you have FCR’s or TDMR’s carbies.

[Con Rod]

The thing is the trx has CV carbies std so doesn’t matter how fast you open the throttle because manifold vacuum dicates how fast the slides lift.
Unless you have FCR’s or TDMR’s carbies.

That's a very interesting point I had not considered.

After spending so long getting to know and tuning the standard carbs and am very reluctant to change them. I like how they perform at the moment but naturally, a bit more urgency would be nice....your point is a good one in this respect. I have already tuned them pretty well both in the carbs and with the ignition. The slide would be a limiting factor.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

I’ve always questioned if the 95 import carbies with acc pump fitted ran a lighter spring or less preload on the spring so the slides opened a little faster.

[Trx envy]

Cheers. Might keep my eye out for a complete assembly. Any model R6 would be ok? Its not so much about snapping the throttles open quick as having access to full throttle range without having to clock my whole right shoulder to get some sweet WOT. So do the FCR's have a tendency to bog with ham fisted throttle inputs?

[spiritedride]

Hi Trx envy, I have FCR41's on one of my TRX's , I don't use an airbox ( just a foam sock filter ) also programable ignition and free flowing mufflers. No issues at all with bogging down just instant response from about 3000 rpm in any gear.I suspect the ignition unit helps to avoid this problem. Just be mindfull that there is no choke function which may give issues starting on a winters morning in Melbourne.

[Trx envy]

Cheers SR, good to know. So just give it a couple twists before starting yeah?

[spiritedride]

I use the 2 twist method for hot or cold starts but even on a winters morning in queensland it takes a few attemps,it is still getting air which it doesn't want in the mix.

[dicky]

Cheers. Might keep my eye out for a complete assembly. Any model R6 would be ok? Its not so much about snapping the throttles open quick as having access to full throttle range without having to clock my whole right shoulder to get some sweet WOT. So do the FCR's have a tendency to bog with ham fisted throttle inputs?

If they are set up correctly and you don't get too ham fisted at low revs they work great.
The accelerator pump is the biggest thing to be careful off, it squirts fuel down the throat when you twist the throttle.
If the pump is not set up correctly you can flood the engine at low revs by opening the throttle too fast.

[Trx envy]

Sounds good. Are they hard to set up? They are advertised as coming set up and ready to go out of the box.
Also there is the tdmr40 for another option.. bit priceyer.. i believe can be a bit more finnicky to get right?
I believe they have a choke and more adjustability on the acc pump.
I pretty much have no carb tuning experience so the most noob friendly option would be the go

[dicky]

Sounds good. Are they hard to set up? They are advertised as coming set up and ready to go out of the box.
Also there is the tdmr40 for another option.. bit priceyer.. i believe can be a bit more finnicky to get right?
I believe they have a choke and more adjustability on the acc pump.
I pretty much have no carb tuning experience so the most noob friendly option would be the go

If you have no idea what you are doing then you'll probably screw it up.
Cobba has some good starting settings for FCR's for road use.

I still have to ask, if you don't know what the FCR's are going to do (apart from a magical, marginal increase in HP), and you are not going racing, then why do you want them in the fist place?
CV carbs are fitted to most non-FI bikes for a reason, coz they work really well on the road.
No argument that direct slide carbs and accelerator pumps are not better for instant response, but unless you're on the track you don't really need it.
I've got FCR's on the FZR1000 and they are a pain in the arse to keep tuned and make rapid riding on the road a very twitchy affair but on the track at PI I wouldn't want anything else.
I put FCR's on my TRX for a few months but they've been sitting in a box for the past 10 years as I preferred the CV's for road riding. I'm a big fan of smooth = fast, so I don't like the twitchy response.
But it's your money, so just do what you want.

[Trx envy]

Cheers Dicky. That puts it into perspective. I was just going off all the glowing adulations on here about how its an extra 15hp and amazing response and economy and cure cancer.
Might save my hard earned moneys and just enjoy the bike. More power is always welcome but not if it detracts from the useability.

[spiritedride]

Hi Trx Envy, I take Dickys point about cv carbs being smooth,but my FCR equipped bike is just as everyday useable as my standard TRX.( apart from cold morning starts ),The Kehins have rollers on their slides to prevent the motor vacuum from making them sticky and their is absolutely no hesitation at all.The flatslides allow me to enter a corner in a higher gear and get good drive on exit with more revs in hand,when i'm on my standard bike I have to use the gearbox much more to keep the revs up or not much happens when you twist the throttle on exit.If you were using your bike for daily commuting I wouldn't bother with them but if you want a more lively motor for general road use they are worth their cost.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Cheap easy fix that will give you better response , low end power and no carb mods and take you 1 afternoon in the garage.
Buy some Hylomar sealant for head gaskets, whip the head off the bike, remove the 2 brass rivets from the head gasket.

Next thing it remove the middle 0.5mm centre shim and clean up the 2 outer spring sheets.
Re-coat with Hylomar blue and no need to rivet the 2 sheets back together as the 2 locating spacers that slip over the head studs centre the head gasket sheets.
This will bump up compression to 11:1.
Both head gasket and cam cover gasket are re usable so the only cost is the sealant.

Make life easier too by checking the clearances and writing them down.
When the cams are out, look at the shim values under each bucket on each valve and write them down too.
If clearances are ok they should still be ok when you bolt the head back on.
This info will make things easier next major service and if any clearance has closed up, you’ll be able to work out the appropriate replacement shim straight away.

[Trx envy]

^fuk yes.