Fitting Dynatek DC3-1 coils and HT leads / Ignition Leads

[Con Rod]

Fitting Dynatek DC3-1 coils and new HT leads

I fitted new coils and HT leads last night, it was reasonably straightforward, although I do still have some work to do to fabricate some brackets.

I would it would be helpful to add some information here for anybody looking at doing this modification.

This information is probably available across a number of other posts but in the interest of making it a little easier to find I thought I would add a new thread.

I will add some pictures later


What do you need?

• Dynatek DC3-1 coils
  HT Lead
  Terminals and rubber boots to connect to the coils
  or ready-made HT leads with boots and terminals
  Some ally or other material to make brackets for the coils

If you buy a set of Dynatek DC3-1 coils as I did, they ship with the coils and some ring connectors only.

So in addition to the coils you will need to get some HT leads and terminals to connect the leads to the coils.

The HT leads terminate of the coil end with a terminal and rubber boot and at the plug end they screw into the existing plug cap

You can either buy a metre of 7-8mm copper core HT lead and separately buy some terminals and rubber boots and then make your own leads, or you can buys some ready-made leads with the correct terminal on the coil end and cut them to length. That way you already have the coli end of the lead sorted and you just screw the other end into the plug cap.

I have added links to the parts required at the end of this post.

How do you fit them?

There are a few ways to fit the coils and I know others have done it slightly differently. I used the existing wiring loom but you can also run a new wire from the battery via a relay for the coils. Cobba has previously provided instructions on this. I also mounted the coils in the existing location, again others have done this slightly differently. This is what I did:

1. Remove the old coils and leads.

• Remove the tank and air box to give you access to the coils. You will probably find it easier if you unplug a lot of the wiring connectors in this area to give yourself some space.
  Un bolt the old coils from the frame and unplug the spade plugs connecting to the coils
  To remove the coils from the leads hold the lead and twist the coils counter clockwise, the leads will unscrew and you can put the old coils aside
  Unbolt the brackets at the bottom of the radiator and move the radiator forward so you can get at the spark plug caps.
  Remove the plug caps and wires. The wires have been disconnected from the coils so you should be able to pull them out of the bike.
  Pull off the rubber boot from the plug cap, hold the HT leads and turn the plug caps counter clockwise to remove them from the HT leads.

2. Connect the leads and test fit the coils

• I bought ready mad leads with the correct terminal on the coil end. Connect this end to the coils and cut off the terminal at the plug end. Don’t worry about trimming to the correct length yet
  Offer the coils and leads to the bike to find the correct mounting position. There are 4 existing brackets. 2 for each coil. The new coils are larger than the stock coils so you won’t be able to fit them to the existing brackets. I connected them to existing coil bracket at the front of the frame with the leads pointing outwards.
  I then mounted them diagonally so the coils slope downwards towards the back of the bike.
  You will need to make a bracket to hold the back of the coils but don’t worry about that yet
  Once you are happy that you have a suitable position to mount the coils remove them and the leads from the bike.

3. Wire and mount the new coils

• The existing connectors are spade connectors. The new coils use ring connectors
  Cut off the existing spade connectors, trim the wire insulation and crimp on the new ring connectors. There is also an earth connection. You do not need to change this.
  Connect the new ring connectors to the coils and mount the coils to the bike. Connect the connectors for the left coil to the left coil and the right to the right but either risk connector can go to either terminal on the coils.
  Mount to coils to the frame, ensuring you connect the earth as it was on the old coils.

4. Cut the HT leads to length and connect the plug caps

• You should now have the coils mounted to the bike, the coils wired to the loom and the HT leads connected to the coils
  Chase the HT leads down to the cam cover where they will connect to the plugs caps. Make sure the wires are not going to foul and the cooling fan or anything like that
  Mark the length you need for the leads and cut them to length
  Put the rubber boots from the pulg caps onto the leads and then screw on the plug caps. Then pull the rubber boots into place.
  Connect the plug caps to the plugs.

5. Make brackets for the back of the coils

• I used a piece of card to make a template bracket that would connect from the existing rear coil mounting bracket to the back of the coils
  I then used the template to make a bracket out of some 1.5mm ally and mounted it in place.

6. Put everything back together

• Reconnect all of the wiring connectors you unplugged to give yourself space.
  Put the airbox and tank back on
  Start the bike.

Coils
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dynatek-DC3 ... 100623.m-1

HT Lead
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/7mm-HT-Ignit ... Swf-VWX-M1

HT Terminal and rubber boot
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IGNITION-LE ... SwcLxYGegU

Made up leads
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Produc ... om=1021579

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Cool bananas Paul, you should be able to open up the plug gap over 1 mm now

[SDN]

What improvement to they give, is it noticeable?

[Con Rod]

yes marked improvement in running. smoother across the rev range and cleaner plugs

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Definitely more responsive down low when taking off or in traffic .