Had a dyno run last friday to check fueling on the FCR's Appears i had been going wrong way on the mains. Going richer instead of leaner. second trace below.is still slightly rich at top end with 158 main.
I didnt have a smaller main to try so i ordered a 154 to fit later on and that will do me.
Should be somewhere near or just slightly rich.
There would be a printout but i keep getting....."Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached."
Anyway it made 73.4hp at rear wheel which is approx 87.6 at crank i beleive. Thats ok.
Its std engine with ignitech, large bore headers and 2-1. FCR 41's. K&N pod filters.
Dave
Dyno run
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Mincehead
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Re: Dyno run
Hmmm, it`s not THAT good, my stock motor gave 88.1 at the wheel with FCR`s and some VERY short carbon cans on stock headers. Mine was rich too, running 70 mains if I remember correctly. 
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Kenny
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Re: Dyno run
You must have a problem somewhere as my std one with scorpion cans and K&N made 76 at the wheel on a Dynopro dyno.
My bike maybe a dinosaur but it still has some bite & has a mighty roar.
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Mincehead
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cobbadiggabuddyblooo
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Re: Dyno run
The 150 mains still run rich on most TRX's unless you live in those colder denser air climates like Killer.
Go back to the 150 and dropping down to a 145-147 is not unusual either.
Most fall into this trap. The FCR's are set like the std Trx carbs and run rich to start as a safe guard.
Even with the std 150 main and all the work to my motor, 13.5-13.7 was the fuel/air
155 got me down to 12.8-13.
Advice given to Alex to drop to a 145 with his FCR's and projection comp system gave him improvements.
But here is the difference to be aware of
Density is affected by temperature, altitude and humidity and bars metric pressure and few point.
Humidity is different to relate humidity too.
So if you work at sea level as a reference, the UK isn't really that much different to Australian east coast. The top half of Australia is dry air 6-9mths but 3 months of humid weather actually makes the air less dense during summer.
The UK isn't really that different to the weather in the lower half of Australia and for 6 - 9 mths of those aut/winter/spring months with colder temps may raise the density but remember if there is moisture in the air with a bit of rain your prob back to square 1 again if some of that evaporates when falling.
So if you set your jetting now in your colder months on a dry day, come your summer track days you'll find your 154 main now will be too rich again in summer.
May be an idea to just keep the std 150 jets handy for summer.
The barametric pressure, temp and humidity should be recorded on your dyno result for a reference so you can adjust accordingly.
Don't be surprised if you lost 5-6 hp due to your over rich carb setting.
Go back to the 150 and dropping down to a 145-147 is not unusual either.
Most fall into this trap. The FCR's are set like the std Trx carbs and run rich to start as a safe guard.
Even with the std 150 main and all the work to my motor, 13.5-13.7 was the fuel/air
155 got me down to 12.8-13.
Advice given to Alex to drop to a 145 with his FCR's and projection comp system gave him improvements.
But here is the difference to be aware of
Density is affected by temperature, altitude and humidity and bars metric pressure and few point.
Humidity is different to relate humidity too.
So if you work at sea level as a reference, the UK isn't really that much different to Australian east coast. The top half of Australia is dry air 6-9mths but 3 months of humid weather actually makes the air less dense during summer.
The UK isn't really that different to the weather in the lower half of Australia and for 6 - 9 mths of those aut/winter/spring months with colder temps may raise the density but remember if there is moisture in the air with a bit of rain your prob back to square 1 again if some of that evaporates when falling.
So if you set your jetting now in your colder months on a dry day, come your summer track days you'll find your 154 main now will be too rich again in summer.
May be an idea to just keep the std 150 jets handy for summer.
The barametric pressure, temp and humidity should be recorded on your dyno result for a reference so you can adjust accordingly.
Don't be surprised if you lost 5-6 hp due to your over rich carb setting.
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