Ignition Coils

[knumbnutz]

Hello All,
Anyone use different ignition coils from standard ?
On my ol Guzzi I used Dyna3 coils, but after some years, they shat. I changed to Bosch GT40R coils and the bike ran beautifully... still does.
Since i am at rebuild stage and I have to move the coils or at least rebuild the mounts as they have broken off, I am wondering if anyone has used better coils like the GT40Rs or something ?

regards Neil

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

If using a TCIP4 programmable ignition, you have the option to use what ever ohm coils you choose.
The program automatically recognises dwell time needed to suit the ohmage of your coils or you can manually set them to long for coils over 2 ohm or
short for coils under 2 ohm.

[knumbnutz]

thanks Brian, I take it the TCIP4 is the ign sys I got from you then ?

[Killerwhale]

thanks Brian, I take it the TCIP4 is the ign sys I got from you then ?

I use dynatek 3

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Yep sure is.
Have a look at the program disc and open the file that looks like a spark plug.
Opening the program takes you to the miscellaneous tab.
Top left has rev limiter and clutch master/quick shifter switch function adjustments.
To the right of that is the SENSOR function adjustments to turn on your TPS.

The middle section of the tab is for your dwell settings.
AUTO makes life easy ....

The bottom section is for your input allocations.
Being a twin cylinder INPUT 1 is used and INPUT 2 is not used. ( its activated when using multi cylinder bikes like R6-R1 and alike)
Input 1 is set to blocking as your clutch/q-shifter switch functions are not needed unless initiated by you if you choose to use this function.

Click through the tabs ( misc, bike, advanced map, ) and familiarise yourself.
Advanced map has its own 2D 3D tabs and give you your program maps and (10-100 point programming. 10 with NO TPS sensor, 100 points with TOS initiated.

There is another file there on the disc that is a manual on the ignition and gives you a basic run down on functions.

[SDN]

Is there any discernable difference using different coils? -

What is the cot of a decent set of aftermarket coils?

Can see why you might do it if your original coils had failed, but otherwise?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Try running the power to the coils via a relay straight from the battery.
You get full voltage from the battery routed using a 15 amp cable through the relay and straight to the coils.
I found I was getting 14V at the coils compared to 12v.
I also run DC-3 dynatec coils and it allows you to run a larger gap too.

[SDN]

OK with all that Brian, but what was the difference? did the bike feel stronger, pull harder, give more power?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Unfortunately Simon,
All was done right from the start of the rebuild so no comparison on the std coils.
But simple logic and the maths to it will contribute to a gain.

So you get your fueling right, your timing right and the best spark to ignite this within the chamber, you'll find the optimum power from the elements you have within your motors combustion chamber.
Personally I can't see the sense in not having the 3 of these vital elements at optimum as your only robbing yourself of power.

Even if you stick with the std coils, you'll gain by a relay set up and full voltage to the coils.
A decent $10-$15 relay with a fuse, a little 15 amp wire and a couple of terminals and a little soldering and you've found a gain.
All this action going on within your combustion chamber is happening in mili seconds.
Throttle response and low-mid revs is where you will feel the gains.

It's a bit like comparing 91 octane fuel or running 95-98.
The std trx loom is a cheaper option and just a simple way to feed power to your coils at the expense of performance.
You can run 11.5-12v to your coils with the std loom set up and have a weaker spark or shove 14v up it's date hole and go from 90% of the coils potential to 100%.
The coils are in a nice cool position getting plenty of fresh air so I cant see heat being an issue due to the extra voltage because ultimately they are designed to take the full potential anyhow.
Remember the coil lead is nearly 20 yrs old and simply unscrews from the coil. Put in a copper core lead and get 100% potential from your coil to the plug while at it. (your std TRX plugs are resistor plugs so no issue with RF.)