Ignitech TCIP4 Ignition Maps

[Killerwhale]

1 other thing before you go, ask yourself what you want to tune the bike to do.
Good example...
A timing curve for the economy orientated riders who want the most MPG will have a much more advanced map due to the nature of their throttle response they would use.
Just look at the amount of advance you see on 10-25% throttle on the TPS program.
Apart from all that, its not rocket science but just common sense really to the fundamentals of ignition timing.

Hi Ho Silver away

Hey Silver, if you find the max degrees gimme a shout and i will do likewise.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

As per previous page post...
10*base at 1,150rpm and you have 40* of advance as measured on the spare rotor I have. So static advance is 8* to 48*
Hump is 52mm long and each degree is about 1.25mm with an outside circumfrence of 460mm .
The three lines counterclockwise on your rotor are TDC marked with T beside the line , 8* static( start of your hump and the 3rd line is your 10* base.(at 1,150rpm)
I know my TDC mark is true as proven via measuring TDC on my rebuild.

_________________
laughter is the best medicine

[Silver]

So static advance is 8* to 48* (or 45* advance from your 10* base)

Thats what i was after! thanks.
All the rest was too complictated for my old brain.
I need to sort the fuelling out before i go anywhere near the ignition.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Good approach, sorting fuelling first. As too lean or too rich slows the burn rate down.
That's one of the reasons the economy maps run more advance, to accommodate a leaner fuel mixture.
All in jest by the way with the hi ho..

[dandywarhol]

The faster the mixture burns, the less advance is needed - simples. The end result is maximum downforce on the piston crown at around 15 after TDC. Think of standing on a pushbike pedal at TDC

Maybe we're going off topic as the OP poster alluded to

It will still be a great thread though - at the moment I'm unadjustable - can't get the drivers to understand the feckin' USB/serial lead!

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Download the drivers directly from the Ignitech site

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/stahnout

[dandywarhol]

Download the drivers directly from the Ignitech site

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/stahnout

Job done - I was being a technophobe!

Difficult to say how it compares as I've spent all winter on a Honda Dylan 125 scoot but it "feels" happier at town speeds, pulls cleanly from 2,000 rpm in 4th and without complaint around 2200 in 5th. Not saying that's how I ride, just testing the

Does anyone have a ignition curve from a stock ignition unit?

[Killerwhale]

Hey!
What times do yall have on your kickshifters??
I find that on full blast it´s good but on small thottle it´s a bit harsch.
Think i´m at 150ms now, anyone found the sweetspot??

[dandywarhol]

What are your thoughts on using a brake light switch attached to the gear linkage to trigger the quickshifter input?

[Killerwhale]

What are your thoughts on using a brake light switch attached to the gear linkage to trigger the quickshifter input?

I know that there are a brand wich uses hallsensors for the lever to indicate the present gear, so anything would be possible i think.
Go for the setup wich are easiest and rugged to last..

[dandywarhol]

I was just thinking outside the box. Brake light switches are pretty rugged . What I'm trying to find out is, does the Ignitech just need a signal which can be time set on a PC, regardless of how long the signal is applied for? In other words, if a switch was attached to the gear linkage so that the contacts closed when the linkage moved, would that be enough to trigger the Ignitech into taking over and setting a predetermined ignition millisecond cutout?

Hope I'm making sense

[Killerwhale]

I was just thinking outside the box. Brake light switches are pretty rugged . What I'm trying to find out is, does the Ignitech just need a signal which can be time set on a PC, regardless of how long the signal is applied for? In other words, if a switch was attached to the gear linkage so that the contacts closed when the linkage moved, would that be enough to trigger the Ignitech into taking over and setting a predetermined ignition millisecond cutout?

Hope I'm making sense

For sure!
The ign takes the signal and wait for the amount of time set, then you also set the settle time.
Heard of a QS wich broke on a racing straigt giving a constant signal, almost made a crash.
Can´t remember what settle time i used but it feels ok....

[dicky]

A decent quick shifter will have a programmable cut time as well as a 'settle' or lock out time.
The cut out time is simply how long the ignition is cut for.The lock out time is how long the QS unit must wait after the switch has returned to normal state before it can be activated again.
The cut time should begin when the switch activates and will not be able to trigger again until after both the cut out time and the lock out time have elapsed.
The biggest problem with many quick shifters is that there is always contact bounce from the switch, the activation is never a single on/off transition but always a series of them.
If the QS unit is a cheap and nasty piece of shit, the contact bounce will make the cut out time longer as it will keep cutting the ignition until switch stops bouncing
This would probably only a few ms for a good quality microswitch but with a poor quality switch it could be considerably longer.
The lock out time, if it is even present, ensures that the system will not keep cutting out if the switch actives again too soon (the switch can bounce when opening as well as closing) or of the switch fails and stays in the active state.
A brake switch only has to turn on a light bulb. No-one cares if the light flickers a few times as it turns on or off.
Personally I would not use one for a QS unless I knew that the QS unit could deal with what is probably a really shitty switch signal.
Just because I wouldn't use a brake switch doesn't mean that they can't work. Lots of people do use them.

I should add that the TCIP4 has both cut out and lock out timers.
Cut out is set via Clutch Master Time
Lock out is set via Clutch Master Pause
You can set the activation of the cut out to be by normally open switch (which closes to earth when operated), or by a normally closed switch (which goes open circuit when operated) via Clutch Master/Clutch Master Inv.

[davamb]

...A brake switch only has to turn on a light bulb. No-one cares if the light flickers a few times as it turns on or off...

Typical switch bounce will be all over in around 50mS max (I've written enough contact debounce algorithms in my time) so you're not even going to see it, whereas, as you say, it might annoy the hell out of the shifter.

[dandywarhol]

Thanks for the info folks, interesting stuff.