Show us your quickshifter setup

[M.V.]

Hmm... interesting. I bought a brake switch months back intending to have a bit of a fiddle around, but it ended up on the Norton!
So where do you buy the dynojet switch from Mick? And normally open or normally closed (or can you program the ignition module to accept either?)

I got the Ignitech switch from Cobba, the Dynojet bit is just the shift rod to mate it all together. There's a push or pull version of the Ignitech switch, pretty sure they're N/O, haven't played with the software yet, not sure about that side of things. I think Cobba still has one of each left

Got the shift rod in the mail this morning BTW, very happy with motospares.com.au!

[M.V.]

Well, it's done & working fine!

Couldn't find any nice threaded rod at Bunnings & I wanted some nuts as well, so I bought some stainless M6 fasteners & chopped em up.

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Pretty easy on the wiring/software side of things, couple of issues on the fitment front.

Speaking of chopping things up...

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This needed to go for clearance for the quickshifter switch. I couldn't put it at the bottom anyway, because the TRX lever has a left hand thread, which would only mount to the Dynojet rod and it meant I also had to cut the left handed thread off the bottom of the stock TRX rod to mate them all together.

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I ended up chopping 2 x section off one end of the Dynojet rod & all 3 off the other, the Dynojet rod ended up under 100mm IIRC, I need to take the last 7.5mm section off still, mostly becuase I didn't account for the locknuts My orignal shift rod adjustment was 210mm overall centre to centre of the pivots, this is 215mm, so not quite where I was before.

So it's working, but I need to source some left hand thread rod or stainless bolts, a new stock TRX shift rod & sprocket cover!

Oh, it's quite fun too

[M.V.]

Oh, on the wiring front, I ran the quickshift wire into the Ignitech harness for a bit more support, the wires for the QS switch are pretty fine.

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It's pin 16 & 19, 16 is ground, the switch is N/O.

I'll get a proper water proof connector to place in line at some point so I can unplug the QS if necessary, could even install an on/off switch if you wanted.

[M.V.]

Quick update: I was jumping out of second gear on the 1-2nd change at high RPM, OK up to about 5K, but after that it grabs, then jumps out as the revs rise. I adjusted the lever a little, but still doing it...

What cut time are people running? I think I need to make it a little longer to allow for 1-2 change. Every other gear is fine, but the stock cut is probably on the quick side for my gearbox.

Other than that, can't wipe the smile off my face! So fun & sounds amazing. Mostly wasted on my commute though, I need to get out for a proper ride soon.

[davamb]

Mick,

Bunnings sells these little turnbuckles. They're stainless and have one LH and one RH M6 thread.





Maybe of use?

[M.V.]

Yeah, perfect Dave, I'll grab one next time I'm in Bunnings. Thanks!

[M.V.]

OK, took the kill time out to 140ms, 1-2 change is no no problem, but higher gear changes are a bit clunky, will try 110-120ms next & also lower the gear lever a little, I think it's slightly higher than it used to be.

The time between shift function is interesting, if I can get a nice compromise between kill time & 1-2 shift working, theoretically, you could get into a nice RPM range, shift & hold you foot on the lever, the ignition would then cut every x seconds (whatever you dialed in)... Pretty good for drag racing or the old stop light GP I'll play around with that next.

I also lowered my limiter down to 8200, I haven't hit it at 8500, even hitting neutral with a missed 1-2 shift at full noise...

[Con Rod]

the jumping out of gear between first and 2nd is most likely due the wear on that gear, edges being rounded.

a longer kill time with give it more time to engage the gear properly as you say, but in higher revs you will also find a great loss of engine momentum so the change wont be as smooth at with say a .80ms cut.

The challenge is finding a compromise.

Personally I am inclined to use the clutch for first to 2nd to limit wear on that gear, obviously those are the gears which will see most wear

Also, obviously good quality synthetic oil will help,

you could also look running a little leass advance at the point where you shift from first 2nd to soften it up a little

[M.V.]

the jumping out of gear between first and 2nd is most likely due the wear on that gear, edges being rounded.

a longer kill time with give it more time to engage the gear properly as you say, but in higher revs you will also find a great loss of engine momentum so the change wont be as smooth at with say a .80ms cut.

The challenge is finding a compromise.

Personally I am inclined to use the clutch for first to 2nd to limit wear on that gear, obviously those are the gears which will see most wear

Also, obviously good quality synthetic oil will help,

you could also look running a little leass advance at the point where you shift from first 2nd to soften it up a little

I was thinking the same thing, but I lowered the gear shift lever a little lower than before & took the kill time back to 100ms, all good on the 1-2 shift.

I think because the switch itself has some play, I need the lever a little lower than previous.

[Tarwetijger]

Edit: sorted.

[dandywarhol]

Interesting thread. I guess it has to be a compromise on the lag time due to the narrowing up of the gear ratios as you get to a higher gear - what would be smooth for 2-3 shift would be clunky for 4-5 shift being closer ratios

I don't get alextrx850 bit about blipping the throttle on upshifts - you'll surely end up with a slower shift waiting for the revs to drop before the dogs synchronise their speeds

[Tarwetijger]

i've yet not been able to go out for a test drive yet.
The switch seems to move more heavily than actually changing the gear, is this normal?
Otherwise this would mean the ignition is interrupted AFTER upshifting?
Ah well I will try for real first.

[dandywarhol]

The angle of the shiftlever to the rod looks wrong - the angles at both ends should be close as possible to 90 degrees. The way it is you'll need more movement to upshift than you would at 90 degrees. The effort to change will also be different

[alextrx850]

Interesting thread. I guess it has to be a compromise on the lag time due to the narrowing up of the gear ratios as you get to a higher gear - what would be smooth for 2-3 shift would be clunky for 4-5 shift being closer ratios

I don't get alextrx850 bit about blipping the throttle on upshifts - you'll surely end up with a slower shift waiting for the revs to drop before the dogs synchronise their speeds

I don't have a quick shift Dandy.
Just wondering how the quick shift would affect the gear changes when in the lower gears ,..say from the standing start to say 80kph.
I've manually ( quick shifted ) in the lower gears and found it quite clunky....4th and 5th, much better.
Just that the gear ratios seem wider apart in the lower gears compared to engine rpm than up at higher road speed.

Another thing seen that makes me wince, is the first gear jab that some riders do to engage first gear at lights.
Maybe ok with a Harley.

[Tarwetijger]

The angle of the shiftlever to the rod looks wrong - the angles at both ends should be close as possible to 90 degrees. The way it is you'll need more movement to upshift than you would at 90 degrees. The effort to change will also be different

Yes i noticed. I wanted to try reversed shifting and bought a pull sensor. So now i just have to.
I Will experiment with different rod lenghts and I could try the original rearset too.