I realised you don't have one Alex - I was wondering why you blip on the upshift. Blipping will slow down the shift and make it clunky Blipping the throttle on the downshift smooths out the change.alextrx850 wrote:I don't have a quick shift Dandy.dandywarhol wrote:Interesting thread. I guess it has to be a compromise on the lag time due to the narrowing up of the gear ratios as you get to a higher gear - what would be smooth for 2-3 shift would be clunky for 4-5 shift being closer ratios
I don't get alextrx850 bit about blipping the throttle on upshifts - you'll surely end up with a slower shift waiting for the revs to drop before the dogs synchronise their speeds
Just wondering how the quick shift would affect the gear changes when in the lower gears ,..say from the standing start to say 80kph.
I've manually ( quick shifted ) in the lower gears and found it quite clunky....4th and 5th, much better.
Just that the gear ratios seem wider apart in the lower gears compared to engine rpm than up at higher road speed.
Another thing seen that makes me wince, is the first gear jab that some riders do to engage first gear at lights.
Maybe ok with a Harley.
Show us your quickshifter setup
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- dandywarhol
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Re: Show us your quickshifter setup
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
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Re: Show us your quickshifter setup
I bought a used push/pull as i always only downshift up....i set mine up so it only works on full throttle pulls. But as i have a TDM900 box i just blip it a bit in traffic anyway...900 box so much smoother!Tarwetijger wrote:Yes i noticed. I wanted to try reversed shifting and bought a pull sensor. So now i just have to.dandywarhol wrote:The angle of the shiftlever to the rod looks wrong - the angles at both ends should be close as possible to 90 degrees. The way it is you'll need more movement to upshift than you would at 90 degrees. The effort to change will also be different
I Will experiment with different rod lenghts and I could try the original rearset too.
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Re: Show us your quickshifter setup
I bought a used push/pull as i always only downshift up....i set mine up so it only works on full throttle pulls. But as i have a TDM900 box i just blip it a bit in traffic anyway...900 box so much smoother![/quote]
Comes,down to finding style I guess, if I am in a relaxed state and slow in shifting up, the engine revs fall to below required for the new higher gear.
Must emphasise ..relaxed gear changes tho.
When the crazy eye is in,..no upward throttle blips.
Downshifts always blip.
Still reason that a quick shift might not be good up shifting when In the lower gears tho..
Comes,down to finding style I guess, if I am in a relaxed state and slow in shifting up, the engine revs fall to below required for the new higher gear.
Must emphasise ..relaxed gear changes tho.
When the crazy eye is in,..no upward throttle blips.
Downshifts always blip.
Still reason that a quick shift might not be good up shifting when In the lower gears tho..
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Re: Show us your quickshifter setup
Comes,down to finding style I guess, if I am in a relaxed state and slow in shifting up, the engine revs fall to below required for the new higher gear.alextrx850 wrote:I bought a used push/pull as i always only downshift up....i set mine up so it only works on full throttle pulls. But as i have a TDM900 box i just blip it a bit in traffic anyway...900 box so much smoother!
Must emphasise ..relaxed gear changes tho.
When the crazy eye is in,..no upward throttle blips.
Downshifts always blip.
Still reason that a quick shift might not be good up shifting when In the lower gears tho..[/quote]
Gotcha I also agree with not using one in lower gears, especially 1 - 2. Too easy to hit neutral.
When I raced Yamaha LCs, I wired the kill switch into the horn button and full throttle shifted from 2 - 6 by pressing the horn as I eased on the gearshift - worked fine until the scrutineers checked everyone's horn worked to make sure the bike was stock proddy . What they failed to miss were some bikes with expansion chambers welded inside the stock silencers
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
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Re: Show us your quickshifter setup
Well said Dandy,
As I've read from other sports bike blogs, that trying to force the gears into uneven rpm and mesh patterns will likley in time bend the shift forks, if not damaging the gears themselves.
Each to their own.
As I've read from other sports bike blogs, that trying to force the gears into uneven rpm and mesh patterns will likley in time bend the shift forks, if not damaging the gears themselves.
Each to their own.
- Excalibre
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Re: Show us your quickshifter setup
Love this forumdavamb wrote:Mick,
Bunnings sells these little turnbuckles. They're stainless and have one LH and one RH M6 thread.
Maybe of use?
I picked up one of these from Bunnings for my Quickshifter setup and it did the job perfectly.
Looks great too, no one can believe it's an off-the-shelf gizmo from a hardware store.
Black '99: Race Tech fork springs/emulators, R6 Shock, FCR41's, Modified airbox with K&N filter, Omrae carbon mufflers, R1 brakes, Toby steering damper, and;
Black '01: unmodified, 100% original, and;
'95 Import: Track Bike - too much to list
Black '01: unmodified, 100% original, and;
'95 Import: Track Bike - too much to list