Racetech Emulators

[beltandbraces]

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Hi all.
this is my first post here, hello.
To date I may have been guilty of 'undersharing'!
Am working my way through sensible mods on my 97 TRX.
Have thus far completed :
Blue spot front caliper and master cylinder conversion.
Oil pressure warning light.
Nitron street shock.
Max Torque cans.
All the above thanks to sage advise from the forum.
Have Forks apart and damper rods with a pal who is poised with his brazing torch.
The Race Tech info mentions the TRX in relation to brazing oil holes at the top of the damper rod. At this point it gets unclear as Japanese and Euro bikes are different in the damper dept.
The guy I got the emulators says leave the larger hole below the red split clip, braze the 4 smaller holes above.
This seems to contradict other advise I can find any where on the forum.
My damper rods have a smaller hole further down the rod.

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Do I get the larger hole below the red clip brazed????

[Snod Blatter]

I can see why he would say that, the red plastic ring acts as a seal (I believe?) so anything below that is okay, just more holes. But then I never understood why there is a small hole needed on its own a little further down. Does the big hole line up with the rebound adjuster turney thing?

[dandywarhol]

It's been a few years since I fitted a set but from memory, braze up all the rebound holes (4 different sizes or make up a steel ring to block off the holes) and the small lower hole which is the compression damping hole. Drill a 2mm hole close to the original rebound damping holes you just brazed up (or leave one of the holes unbrazed if it is 2mm) and that is for your new rebound damping - change oil weights to alter the rebound damping to suit. The emulators control compression damping in 2 stages - high and low speed damping dependant on the speed of the fork travel

[beltandbraces]

Yes, Snod Blatter when you turn the rebound adj small holes appear in view through the larger hole that is below the red plastic ring.

So far its clear to me that the 4 small holes above the red plastic ring need brazed or otherwise closed off.
I intend to leave the existing 2mm hole further down where the damper rod is a smaller diameter. This is as per race tech info.

Still not clear as to what to do with the larger hole?
All the Racetech sectional drawings show no holes at the damper rod head!
Dandy warhol, can you remember what you did?

Sorry for posting the same pis 3 times!

Thanks all

[dandywarhol]

I'll have a look at my Info at the weekend and try to jog the memory cells

[beltandbraces]

Very good of you dandywarhol, you're a gentleman!

[Snod Blatter]

Is there another seal on the inside of the stanchion that separates this rebound hole from the compression holes then? In any case, if the small hole really is for rebound then surely you'll want to block the larger hole too, otherwise your rebound will be too fast. The thing that I noticed most from fitting emulators was actually the slower rebound, it's glorious - worth getting it right.

I can't help you out with any special information though, I went the cheaper DIY way and made it up as I went along from scraps of info here and there.

[Excalibre]

You need to remove the rotating drum from inside the top of the damping tube, it has a clip that holds it in place. You'll see three different size holes in it that line up with the large hole when you adjust the damping. Damping set to 1 will be largest hole, 4 will be no hole at all. These holes plus the hole further down on the narrower part of the tube provide the rebound damping.

Remove the red ring prior to brazing otherwise it will melt (put it back on later).

Braze all 4 of the small 'detent' holes AND the large hole.

Do not braze the small rebound hole lower down on the narrower section of the damping tube. Now you effectively have your rebound damping set to 4. If you want softer rebound damping, drill an appropriately sized hole near the existing rebound hole (I drilled mine directly opposite it). I selected a bit size that was in-between the 2 and 3 damping holes on the rotating drum. In other words my set up gave me a damping setting equivalent to 2 1/2.

You know to drill extra compression damping holes at the bottom of the tube? These holes effectively bypass the damping tube arrangement to allow the emulator to provide compression damping.

Good luck!

[beltandbraces]

Thank you Excalibur,
All is now clear, I'm looking forward to feeling the benifits of my emulators.
Much appreciated.

[dandywarhol]

Thanks Excalibur - all coming back to me now.

Also ESSENTIAL to round off/deburr the additional holes drilled at the bottom to stop the oil "shearing" on the sharp edges

[Excalibre]

You're welcome chaps.

You'll love the emulators. Of all the things I've done to my bike, the emulators and Racetech springs have been the biggest improvement.

Cheers

[Rane850]

Hello, ? have now TSS valves in my hand but not yet disassembled forks.
I am wondering with these rebound adj holes, why to weld them close, why not to leave that adjuster sleeve in its place and put it close position?

[dandywarhol]

Because the oil won't get past the inards into the emulator on the compression.
Been there with that one

[Excalibre]

Hi,

I couple of us hijacked the thread below awhile ago and discussed emulators in detail, including answering your question.
The discussion starts about half way down page 6.

http://www.trx850.com/phpBB_forum/viewt ... 1&start=75

Cheers

[arrivisto]

The forks on my first TRX seemed fine, but my second TRX wasn't quite right, so I got PDQ at Maidenhead to install some RaceTech cartridge simulators. At the same time, they fitted new fork springs and set up my (standard) back suspension to suit me. It was quite pricey, but worth it. I won't say it's like riding on air, but now the suspension does what it should and the bike handles beautifully and neutrally. I'm hoping soon to buy my third TRX, a nice one with low mileage, and when I get it, I'll swap the emulators onto the new bike.