tR1x

[davamb]

A productive day so far:





So far, so good. Got to reconnect the brakes and bleed them. Tyre is rubbish, but have a new one to put on it, see if I can get that done next week. Needs a mudguard - will see if I can source a replica on eBay. Won't have a speedo (R1 has an electronic one) but will use the GPS or fit a bicycle computer (I recently fitted a cateye Velo7 to the Norton to get a trip meter) until I can get an axle made up that will take the TRX front wheel and thus speedo drive. Might at least be able to pootle around the block by the end of the weekend though!

With much thanks to M.V. and Stu.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Lookin good Dave, and a suprising cheap upgrade now days..
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151242373913 ... 1438.l2649
Might find you'll have to take a couple off mm's of the inside of the fork bottom to fit the drive and weld a small lug to locate the drive unit.
I chose not to go down this route tho so RH leg is still std R1 and went for the digital dash option..
The bloke who did the work on my conversion had a longer 17mm axle in his parts bin,what from I don't know and used that with a sleeve and a nut on the end when he modded my R1 front to fit. (a similar set up as the rear axle)

[davamb]

Thanks Cobba, if you get a sec can you give me a pic of your brake line routing please? I'm not perfectly happy with how I've got mine set up.

Also, how close did you find the initial settings? I looked up weights some time back and IIRC R1 and TRX were pretty similar, but I'm guessing weight bias might be a fair bit different.

Finally (well - for the moment anyways) is there a copper sealing washer on either side of the banjos at the slave cylinders, or only on one side. My guess is two have been lost along the way.

[alextrx850]

Thanks Cobba, if you get a sec can you give me a pic of your brake line routing please? I'm not perfectly happy with how I've got mine set up.

Also, how close did you find the initial settings? I looked up weights some time back and IIRC R1 and TRX were pretty similar, but I'm guessing weight bias might be a fair bit different.

Finally (well - for the moment anyways) is there a copper sealing washer on either side of the banjos at the slave cylinders, or only on one side. My guess is two have been lost along the way.

Copper washers on both sides of the banjos Dave,..oddly enough, I've used the old copper washers collected over time..to the right hand oil drain bolt for a good no leak seal.

[davamb]

Thanks Alex. Quick trip to Wonthaggi to SuperCheap on the black taxi (back of shot), I had some new copper washers. Ground down to fit and then annealed (along with the original ones) to dead soft. Within 5 minutes I had a decent lever. I'll let it sit for a while and then purge again tomorrow. Have to dash up to the big smoke and do some hardware shopping anyway today (will I be able to bring back an internal bifold door in the MX5???)

Wheeled her out and gave her a quick wash down. Even just doing that I can tell the stoppers are freakin' dynamite compared to the old bog-stockers. Front end definitely lower, may have to consider riser bars, but that's a long way off yet. Will have the fairing back on tomorrow and something done in the way of an ignition switch and then - road trials!!!



Gotta clean up that shed...

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Weight of the forks and trees and bars for the TRX came in at 10kg and the R1 set up came in at 12kg.
The billet trees I had made to the same offset as the trx plus I've stepped the top one down to accommodate for the shorter R1 forks to get me back to original height.

I haven't addressed the brake lines yet but I can see I'll have to spend a little time to find a happy medium there. The std forks had that groovy little brake hose holder that bolted to the fork but the action of the forks allows that to be a constant length from caliper to fork mounting point.
where as now it's all upside down.
I found with the 1.5" riser bars I put on because this brings the bars forward and inwards of the forks, I've had to remount the brake reservoir as it would foul the fairing bracket and mod the fairing bracket for the clutch side.

Do you know what year the R1 was that your front end came off ???? as 98-99 had more travel at 135mm not 120mm as per later models and the TRX plus the legs where a bees dick thinner too on those 98-99's, this is why they had a tendency to under steer out of the corners when back on the gas.
02-03 had the same offset as the std TRX



Good score for someone..
Those R1 forks and trees, blue spots and rear blue spot calipers went for $400 on e bay...

[Stu99]

Lookin' good Dave.

[davamb]

Ok, can anyone tell me how the steering lock/ignition switch is retained to the top triple clamp and how to remove it? Looks like some kind of gigantic rivet!

And M.V. you able to shed any light on what year R1 this front end came off?

Thanks guys.

[alextrx850]

It's a snap off security bolt Dave, cars have them as well, originally there would have been a bolt with a thin waist...you tighten the bolt till it snaps off leaving what you see now,,...best thing is its a low tensile steel, so if you can get the vise grips to it (generally not tho)...otherwise drill it out then remove the thread with pointy nose pliers...easy as the ignition assembly will now be gone.
Refit the lock with a normal Allen bolt as its a common metric thread.

The next challenge will be how the fairing fits to the turning arc of the clip ons..
I had woodcraft clip ons for my yzf front,....a thought is that if the angle or fitment is not good to the fairing.......try swapping sides and turning the clip ons over....that way you will have a different drop angle ., and maybe a better acceptance to the fairing.

[davamb]

Much thanks Alex, yep managed to drill them out to discover they're just funny loctited bolt thingies. I intend to make an adapter plate for the top triple clamp and regain a steering lock - even though it's not likely to be as robust as the original installation.

Then with the assistance of various cable ties I managed to get it all ship-shape and nabbed the GPS out of the car for a speedo (waaay too many cops down my neck o' the woods for the long weekend, taking no chances).



Went for a brief fang in my local roads to see how it all feels. Pretty damn solid in fact. More weight on the 'bars, but not uncomfortable. Could easily raise them by 3cm or so before clocking the fairing. Might look into risers or first as you suggest Alex; see if anything's to be gained in swapping them around.

First up is that front tyre though, ancient bald bakelite. Not very confidence inspiring. It's a 120/70ZR17 Dunlop Sportmax, but my spare newy is a 120/60. Bugger.

My my, those brakes are something else eh wot? Such an improvement! What a revelation. No excessive dive to go with it, just feels fine with way more to give if needed.

Now the handling; such a transformation - you put it where you want it on the road and it just does it. Simple as that. Perfectly stable and no drama whatsoever. Rides very well over bumps, good compliance there. The steering though, it's not talking back to me much, feels a little "wooden", dunno how to explain, I'm not a racer. Might just be something to get used to, might be the tyre or the current settings - who can say. Needs to be properly setup for static sag before anything else.

So that's about it for the weekend, need to put my feet up for a couple of hours. Will do some more sorting and tidying up during the week. Thanks for all the help guys. Keep you posted.

[alextrx850]

When you get a mo, could I have the height from the concrete to the fairing chrome fastener bolt directly behind your TRX fairing sticker....with the machine vertical ?
Comparison to my YZF set up.
Cheers.

[davamb]

Hi Alex,

I can't take the measurement unless it's on the rear paddock stand as there's no-one to hold the bike vertical while I measure it. This will raise the measurement point a little and I observe 712mm off the deck in this case. I could measure both sides when on the side stand and give you an average too if that's of any help.

BTW, anyone want to buy a brand new, unused 120/60ZR17 Pilot Road 3 set?

[M.V.]

Looking good Dave! The gold spot calipers are a good thing, aren't they?

BTW, anyone want to buy a brand new, unused 120/60ZR17 Pilot Road 3 set?

Haha, bad timing! Got my PR4's last week, but it's still up on stands because I decided the amount of notching in the headstem bearings really was too much

IIRC, the forks are 02-03, but I don't think there's much difference in the years, apart from triple tree offset

[davamb]

Need the year for the mudguard MV, dunno if that changed over time (the forks seem to have), but will be useless if I buy the wrong thing. Might have to go to the wreckers...

[M.V.]

Need the year for the mudguard MV, dunno if that changed over time (the forks seem to have), but will be useless if I buy the wrong thing. Might have to go to the wreckers...

Ah, I see. I'll check mine tonight, it's definitely an 02/03. Unless Stu says otherwise...