Ignitech TCIP4 Ignition Maps

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

1 of the trade offs of the cheaper price of 91 RON Dave, less power and higher carbon deposits.
It's good for your lower compression motors like a chainsaw or lawn mower but not the optimum choice for a TRX motor which was originally designed for leaded/super fuel.
Most seem pretty happy running 95.
Let us know how things go Dave.

[nr]

Rather than having to host pictures, you can save the settings as a .ign file, and then just open them in notepad. For example, here's the bits of the config that I just pulled out of mine:

Code: Select all

IGNITECH_KEY   88 TCIP4/TCIP4
<snip>
TPS           698  3411 
RETARD          6 
RPM             1     0 
DWELL            3    30   100    12   100     9 
DUR_DISCHARG    20 
ADV_MAPA        1 
TPSIAP_SENSOR    1 
SERVO_MAPA      0 
ADV_IAP         0     2     5    10    20    30    40    60    80   100 
SERVO_IAP      30    50    60    70    75    80    85    90    95   100 
IAP_SENSOR     55  2305   105  3756 

RPM_ADV      1500  2000  2500  3000  3500  4000  4500  6000  7500  9000 

ADVANCE        12    16    24    32    34    35    36    37    37    36 
               11    15    22    30    31    34    35    36    37    36 
               11    13    19    28    30    33    34    35    36    35 
               10    11    16    26    29    32    33    34    35    34 
               10    10    14    25    28    31    32    33    34    33 
               10    10    12    23    27    30    31    32    33    32 
               10    10    11    22    26    29    30    31    33    32 
               10    10    10    21    25    27    29    30    32    32 
               10    10    10    20    23    25    28    30    32    32 
               10    10    10    19    21    23    25    30    32    32 
            
<snip>

The only thing I've done since fitting the unit is to recalibrate the TPS, which is reflected in the line:

Code: Select all

TPS           698  3411 

From what I can work out, the advance curve looks pretty stock - the previous user of this unit said he'd made some tweaks for economy, which is fine by me. The bike is primarily used for getting to and from work every day, so a few bob saved in fuel can be put towards beer and curry. The rest I'll probably waste.

I'll get this on the dyno some time soon, and try to sort out some before/after comparisons. Ideally I'd like to have a couple of maps, one for commuting, and one for trackdays and the like, where I can trade a bit of economy for a few more bhp. Although I suspect that the two will be close enough to be not worth worrying about.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Pretty pointless putting information up like that without specs of the motor and any modifications, climate etc and type of fuel your using.
Educated guess is your running 91 RON fuel with all that advance removed ???

[nr]

Nope - super unleaded - so that's kind of 97-98-ish RON. Like I said - I just picked the thing up, and plugged it in - I made no changes to it. My thinking was that is was working on another TRX, so it wasn't likely to kill my motor. I just took it for a little whizz, and while it feels noticeably smoother around 3-4K or so, I couldn't really tell the difference from the stock CDI otherwise.

The only other engine related mods are FCR41s, and a crap Renegade system with headers that vary between 43 and 46 mm, depending on which side I'm measuring, and where I'm measuring it :-/

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

These units save the previous 9 maps so If you click on FILE bit of luck who ever had it previously has re-named and saved the current file under another name and not just modified the default map.
If the unit came with the CD supplied you can load the default program back in which has more advance especially in the throttle percentages.
Save the current file too so if you can always go back to it if you choose.
If not you can download the default TCIP4 program from the IGNITECH site too.
Depending on headers and cans the fcr’s will have areas with even more advance because the default map is set up for CV carbies

[nr]

Oh cool, that's good to know, thanks. No sign of any previous files (the map is labelled as the default TDM850 map), but I've downloaded the default TCIP4 software from Ignitech, so I should be able to get to the default map, and go from there. Will be interesting to compare the two. I know the the previous owner had it set up for economy, not performance - which may explain the conservative settings.

Good to know. Ta.

[nr]

So, this is the default map, according to my software (v88.0) :

Code: Select all

RPM_ADV      1500  2000  3000  4000  5000  6000  7000  8000  9000 10000 

ADVANCE        10    13    16    25    28    32    33    33    33    33 
               10    16    22    31    33    35    35    35    35    35 
               10    24    35    44    45    45    43    41    41    41 
               10    19    32    39    45    47    46    43    43    43 
               10    12    15    25    31    33    32    32    32    31 
               10    12    16    25    28    30    33    32    32    32 
               10    12    16    25    28    30    33    31    33    31 
               10    12    15    25    28    30    32    32    32    32 
               10    12    15    25    28    30    32    32    32    32 
               10    12    15    25    28    30    32    32    32    32 

I'm going to ignore the last column for sure. I'm not sure I fancy seeing what happens to the motor at 10K RPM. But that's a big difference in advance at small throttle openings. The first four rows correspond to 0%, 2%, 5% and 10% throttle opening. Can anyone out there confirm that these values? 47 degrees advance just feels like a big jump from low 30s!

[nr]

Aaaaaaand, answering my own question, from earlier in the thread:

If you look at your std trx 100 point map with the TPS enabled you'll see advance up to 45-47 degrees at 10-15% throttle

A bit of reading, and this is all starting to make sense.

[thechairmann]

I'm new to the forum so please forgive my lack of knowledge on history so fa so please excuse me if i'm playing an old record that no one wants to hear.

My TRX is a bike I bought new back in Feb 1996 and after sorting the handling in a way that I felt suited me, then going out and doing a few track days in 1997 I felt I needed just a little more power. The original PDQ dyno showed me around 74 bhp and 56 ft lb torque.

So, pulling the head and smoothing and matching inlet and exhaust ports, boring out to 60 over size, playing with the airbox intake scoop and cutting 10mm of ends of each header, back on the Dyno I got 85 bhp and 62 ft lbs plus at the rear wheel with those print outs retained from 3 different dyno's. "not just PDQ's"

The bikes still low mileage and circumstances over the last 12 years have dictated lack of use but now, the necessary recommission, ( all fluids, inspection of all hoses, all bearings, replacing tyres, the 2nd replacement battery and a planned pet cock re-build) hopefully the TRX will be back on the road for this year and get used as much, if not more, than my 91 GSX1100G sidecar outfit and my 2008 Guzzi 1200.

Now, the real reason for the above info is, who can I go to for the engine set up, i.e ignition remap and carb tweak as I know the bikes got more to give.

If any one can offer advice it would be great if it went to my email mikewoodley4@aol.com as well as being posted on the forum.

[dandywarhol]

Welcome - sounds like an interesting motor with such little work done to it. what's the header mod Mike?

PDQ still have a dyno shop - it would be good to let them try a few runs with a variety of maps, according to your pipes etc. Mid to high 80s isn't to be sneezed at and very usable.

What handling mods do you have?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

You’ll prob start to chase your tail here if you spend any more money on dyno time which can easily cost $3-500.
You’ve gone as far as possible on the bore at 878ccm.

FCR,s / TDMR’s flat slides and/or Raise compression and set of cams is your next stage in the equation.

Cheapest and easiest mod is to Remove the centre shim from the head gasket.
I’ve used this to gain approx. 0.5 more on the compression ratio from std 10.5:1.
or higher compression pistons like I run on another of my trx’s.

Reground cam profiles cost between $5-800 and flat slide carbies are $1000+ second hand and about $1600 new here in Australia.
So you want to find more than be prepared to spend more and if you want to use it to it’s full potential then spend the same on suspension upgrades too as Dandy questioned.
It’s always fun finding that little more...

But you start to push things from here you want to look at how this will impact on reliability so piston weight begins to come into the equation too.
Perfect example is the JE 878 piston sold by TTS which are still the same compression ratio but 878 and each piston weigh in an extra 48 grams so spinning at 8000rpm that’s a lot of extra stress on the con rod caps.
Another option is lighter wheels which give you less rotating mass, and improve acceleration and braking capabilities as well as manouverability with less effort needed.

[dicky]

My TRX is a bike I bought new back in Feb 1996...

You may have just broken the record for the oldest bike.
The previous was May 1996 from the first Oz shipment, engine no 130 (my bike!)

[Rod.s]

My TRX is a bike I bought new back in Feb 1996...

You may have just broken the record for the oldest bike.
The previous was May 1996 from the first Oz shipment, engine no 130 (my bike!)

Does the frame/engine number start with 130?

[dicky]

Does the frame/engine number start with 130?

Ends with 130, the engine number ends with 055.

[Rod.s]

Does the frame/engine number start with 130?

Ends with 130, the engine number ends with 055.

Yamaha start their sequencing at 100 so that bike is the 30th frame and 55th engine. Numbers up to 100 are used for prototype's test mules etc.