Tarwetijgers Winter Works
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cobbadiggabuddyblooo
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
If you use dandy's equation ,then your within 3 grams..
Std piston/rings/gudgeon 391gms and rods 462grams
JE piston/ rings/ gudeon 412 gms and Carrillo rods 409gms
The influences of more mass on the end of the rod, hopefully I'll find out in a few days.
Std piston/rings/gudgeon 391gms and rods 462grams
JE piston/ rings/ gudeon 412 gms and Carrillo rods 409gms
The influences of more mass on the end of the rod, hopefully I'll find out in a few days.
laughter is the best medicine
- dandywarhol
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
......................and I'd take the 3 grammes off the piston - 3 grammes becomes a helluva lot more @8000 rpm
Handy vid on balancing rods..............plenty scope on the Carillos for removing meat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLpiF0E0EJU
Handy vid on balancing rods..............plenty scope on the Carillos for removing meat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLpiF0E0EJU
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
- Tarwetijger
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
Still waiting for parts, I altered the rear light. Not flush with the rear fairing, like some do, but just deeper placed. I also changed the fender/battery holder as the japanese spec leaves no room for a U-lock, and the european spec fender/holder has specific holes and clamps for it. Left japanese model original and right (modified) european. I also put some sticking aluminiumfoil inside the light to get better reflection. The light originally just has some gray paint inside. I tried it in the dark garage and the difference is obvious!

Okay the official reason is waiting for parts but the unofficial reason is I felt a bit reluctance to get on with the engine.
Truth is, all the parts are here. So, I told myself don't procrastinate and go!!
The problem with the cil.head, where this topic started with, it not solved yet. I asked in a motorbike shop if they can help me with it. But all I got was that they just would get some sanding paper, fit the cam again to try if it will turn freely, sand, fit, etc. So I made this special head grinding tool. I wandered for over an hour at the D.I.Y.shop to look for something that is almost 25mm in diameter. The stick of a broom was close, but made of wood so not evenly shaped. Then I found some multi housekeeping tool from LEIFHEIT... Slightly less than 24,5 mm, perfect!
Grind to length, stuck some sanding paper on it with double sided tape and the diameter becomes astonishing close to 25,0 mm.

The left side is to sand all bearing surfaces, right side to do the two spots I suspect to be the problem, after some bungling with plastigauge.
And then I have to figure out how I am going to paint the cilinders and head. Both were black, but the paint has come off and look awfull. I thought about getting all paint off and use them just blanc. But I am never getting that all evenly shiny, I think that would look weird. So back to black or maybe anthracite, like the valve-cap (what is it called) and the Yamaha logo on the right side of the engine, on the clutch cover. That could be nice. I haven't decided yet.
Okay the official reason is waiting for parts but the unofficial reason is I felt a bit reluctance to get on with the engine.
Truth is, all the parts are here. So, I told myself don't procrastinate and go!!
The problem with the cil.head, where this topic started with, it not solved yet. I asked in a motorbike shop if they can help me with it. But all I got was that they just would get some sanding paper, fit the cam again to try if it will turn freely, sand, fit, etc. So I made this special head grinding tool. I wandered for over an hour at the D.I.Y.shop to look for something that is almost 25mm in diameter. The stick of a broom was close, but made of wood so not evenly shaped. Then I found some multi housekeeping tool from LEIFHEIT... Slightly less than 24,5 mm, perfect!
Grind to length, stuck some sanding paper on it with double sided tape and the diameter becomes astonishing close to 25,0 mm.
The left side is to sand all bearing surfaces, right side to do the two spots I suspect to be the problem, after some bungling with plastigauge.
And then I have to figure out how I am going to paint the cilinders and head. Both were black, but the paint has come off and look awfull. I thought about getting all paint off and use them just blanc. But I am never getting that all evenly shiny, I think that would look weird. So back to black or maybe anthracite, like the valve-cap (what is it called) and the Yamaha logo on the right side of the engine, on the clutch cover. That could be nice. I haven't decided yet.
Last edited by Tarwetijger on Fri Mar 30, 2018 10:32 am, edited 2 times in total.
- dandywarhol
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
This stuff should do the trick - satin.
The Yamaha aircooled 2 stroke boys use it to effect
http://www.screwfix.com/p/plasti-kote-w ... wgodVRAAYw
The Yamaha aircooled 2 stroke boys use it to effect
http://www.screwfix.com/p/plasti-kote-w ... wgodVRAAYw
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
- Tarwetijger
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
You have to log in for the link. It is some heat resistant paint i guess?dandywarhol wrote:This stuff should do the trick - satin.
The Yamaha aircooled 2 stroke boys use it to effect
http://www.screwfix.com/p/plasti-kote-w ... wgodVRAAYw
- dandywarhol
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
Plasticote BBQ aerosol spray
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white
- Tarwetijger
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- Joined: Tue May 15, 2007 9:31 am
- Location: Netherlands, Assen
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
Almost there. Remarkable how much material has to be removed. I lost count of how often I replaced the sanding paper.
It is grain 1000 or 1200 and it is immediately filled with alu. But the cam absolutely has to turn free and smooth, so I just kept going. Bad quality pic again but the bearing faces look better now, almost shiny.

I fitted the carrillo cams. The bearing shells I already had were spot on, luckily.

After some paint stripping the head doesn't look that bad at all. So I thought I decided what to do with the colors, but now I'm in doubt again.
Ah well, lets get the technical details right first, appearance is for after that.

I fitted the carrillo cams. The bearing shells I already had were spot on, luckily.
After some paint stripping the head doesn't look that bad at all. So I thought I decided what to do with the colors, but now I'm in doubt again.

Last edited by Tarwetijger on Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Tarwetijger
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- Tarwetijger
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
Paintwork almost done. This is what it will look like.
Valve cover still needs a good clean, but you'll get the idea.
Rest of the engine is black.

Also polished the oilpipe to the pumps, it was black, but I like it this way.

On the right the pipe for cooling liquid that goes on the cil.head, this part always gets very rusty.
So that needed a clean and fresh paint too.
Than I finally got to work on the engine. The bolts for the oilfilter cover kept turning and turning (with torque wrench)... I thought, something is wrong here and got it off again. This is what I found!

You have to look closely but the bolts are stretched.
At the smallest point they are only 5,5 mm wide instead of 6,0. Lets see if I get original ones or just normal bolts. Yamaha bolts are always odd with lengths.
Valve cover still needs a good clean, but you'll get the idea.
Rest of the engine is black.

Also polished the oilpipe to the pumps, it was black, but I like it this way.
On the right the pipe for cooling liquid that goes on the cil.head, this part always gets very rusty.
So that needed a clean and fresh paint too.
Than I finally got to work on the engine. The bolts for the oilfilter cover kept turning and turning (with torque wrench)... I thought, something is wrong here and got it off again. This is what I found!
You have to look closely but the bolts are stretched.
Last edited by Tarwetijger on Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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cobbadiggabuddyblooo
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
A bit of trivia for you Robert..
Something I learnt on the way with Rod to pick up a lathe the other day and he asked me..
.What's the difference between a bolt and a screw???
45minutes later after a detailed story of how after WW2 an international standard was nutted out between Japan, Germany, England and the U.S. on sizes as they all had there own different way on approaching this and ultimately different size for a purpose.
We didn't even go into depth on the thread side as he said that's another story
Any takers on this trivia question... (no googling now
)
Something I learnt on the way with Rod to pick up a lathe the other day and he asked me..
45minutes later after a detailed story of how after WW2 an international standard was nutted out between Japan, Germany, England and the U.S. on sizes as they all had there own different way on approaching this and ultimately different size for a purpose.
We didn't even go into depth on the thread side as he said that's another story
Any takers on this trivia question... (no googling now
laughter is the best medicine
- Tarwetijger
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
I would say it has something to do with varying thread. So one could say that I turned bolts into screws. But since you're bringing it up, I guess this is not the case. 
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alextrx850
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
Guessing they are both threaded, so I'm looking that the screw has the thread tapered to a point......maybe ?Tarwetijger wrote:I would say it has something to do with varying thread. So one could say that I turned bolts into screws. But since you're bringing it up, I guess this is not the case.
(Joke)..how do you keep a nutter in suspense.....I'll tell you later
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cobbadiggabuddyblooo
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
OOOOHHHH close but no cigar
you both have to sit in the naughty corner till after the next guess...
Anyone else for a stab at this one
you both have to sit in the naughty corner till after the next guess...
Anyone else for a stab at this one
laughter is the best medicine
- dicky
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
A bolt is usually a screw, and a screw can sometimes be used as a bolt.
One of them has nuts.
dicky.
One of them has nuts.
dicky.
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bubbaad
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Re: Tarwetijgers Winter Works
Screwing is so much better than bolting 

