Head Job

Please share your secrets! What mods have you made to your TRX?

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Greg
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Post by Greg » Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:52 pm

Those Kaiser Keihins... Would it take a lot of bother to get them to fit?? I have a good selection of hammers if required!

Greg

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phuk72
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Post by phuk72 » Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:26 pm

The FCR's I ordered for a trx don't come with TPS so I should do the wiring fix,yes ? Whats the go with the heater tubes ,do I block'm off or bridge'm out to bi-pass the carby .
If you ordered FCR41 for a TRX then they should come with TPS mount.

The good news is, however, that disconnecting TPS and tinkering with the CDI gives you about an extra 1-2 bhp through the rev range and more torque (my dyno charts are on here somewhere)

Loop the carbs or cap them off.
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trixynut
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Post by trixynut » Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:00 pm

Bob,

The pod foam filters I used from Ramair are part no. MR012. They won't fit on the plastic velocity stack trumpets, they fit onto manifolds you can put on the inlets on the carbs in place of the trumpets.

With the carb heater hoses, either connect them together, but it needs to be a tight fit as it's under pressure, or kink the pipes over and keep them like that with a small U bolt or similar. Thats what I did.

If you haven't got the TPS pickup, like me, do the TPS wiring mod to disconnect it. This also sets the rev ceiling at 10,000 rpm and the ignition at full advance. If you need the info and diagram on this, I can dig it out.

Dave.

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bobtrx
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Post by bobtrx » Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:02 pm

trxynut I know the tps wiring mod is in my computer but it's hiding so can you please post it up for me . Are any changes required with the fuel lines and thanks all for your information , only 15 more sleeps .
catch ewe later bob

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phuk72
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Post by phuk72 » Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:22 pm

Are any changes required with the fuel lines
No
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trixynut
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Post by trixynut » Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:31 pm

Bob,
This is the diagram that the mod is based on, and that shows you what terminal on the CDI is what:

Image

..and this is a snap that shows what I figured out needs to be connected to what...

Image

...and this is a snap of the standard CDI, which is useful for referencing...

Image

Basically, I disconnected the three wires from the CDI that work the TPS (green, blue and yellow on the right in the photo above)

I then connected the terminals on the CDI marked GPS1 and GPS2 to the GND-, which I figured is the Black terminal on the battery, and...........

Engine fires up and runs fine,

Tacho works perfectly,

Revs out to 10,000 rpm,

I didn't do the 'sidestand disconnection' part of the mod mentioned in the instructions above cos I wanted it to work as it should.

Fuel pipes connect straight on.

Dave.

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bobtrx
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Post by bobtrx » Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:48 pm

thanks trxynut
catch ewe later bob

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bobtrx
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Post by bobtrx » Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:57 am

I've searched the web for an outlet for ramair filters ms-h09 and only came up with a Japanese address and they talk in squiggly lines so I couldn't talk to'm , anyone have an outlet for ramair filters thanks
catch ewe later bob

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Max
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Post by Max » Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:18 am

Here's a link to RamAir's site, you'll have to go to the motorbike section and look up the filter.

http://www.ramair-filters.com/frames.html

It's probably the MS-009 on their list, my package says it's for carbs with a pitch of greater than 83mm (86mm for the 009) and the other dimensions appear to be the same as mine. Maybe the MS-H09 was a number the Japanese importer changed... :?
Max

(TaZ, tz250w)

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bobtrx
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Post by bobtrx » Wed Dec 27, 2006 12:43 am

Thanks Max I have the filter now , only waiting for the FCR's to arrive . The shop suppling the carbs is mucking around with excuses . Bad time of year to get anything I know . I can also get onto a set for a TDM 850 from the USA , can anyone tell me if they are a straight fit to a TRX 850 and what are the differences
catch ewe later bob

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phuk72
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Post by phuk72 » Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:11 pm

99% sure that TDM850 FCRs are the same as TRX
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dandywarhol
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Post by dandywarhol » Fri Dec 29, 2006 11:16 am

If they're from the U.S. of A then they'll be for a Mk1 pre '96 TDM. The Mk1 and M2 used the same carb sizes but different jetting - also no TPS on the Mk1
1996 TRX 850, blue, Ohlins 46HRCLS, Race Tech Gold Valves, 0.90 springs, Venom pipes, R6 brakes............
1974 Yamaha RD250A, Candy Blue
1998 Yamaha SZR660, blue of course
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, Blue and white

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bobtrx
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Post by bobtrx » Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:35 pm

Have fitted the carbs only problem was with the standard throttle cables , the main pull cable inner was too long compared to the outer which only gave me half throttle . Fixed the problem by running inner steel cable completely around the throttle sharft wheel and connecting back onto first notch hole . The return cable inner has been disconnected from the twist grip and secured beside the air filter , so only run 1 cable to the carbs The carbs came with jetting to suit a TRX with aftermarket pipe , I didn't look to see what size .I put in longer fuel lines and redirected the vacuum line to the fuel tank so now I can hinge the tank without playing with fuel lines. Went for it's first run and it feels stronger all thru the rev range quiet noticeable the higher you go and will run into red line very easerly and feels to be still making power unlike the standard carbs.Did a plug chop 3rd gear 8 grand and plug colour was very good.( Wasn't brave enough to do it in 5th on a back country road ) Next week I will go to broadford track and get a comparision against my usual foe the four cylinder beasts. Then if needed will chase up a Dyno to fine tune the jetting. Trxynut's wiring mod for the TPS worked a treat and Max's fliter was as simple as thanks again gentlmen
catch ewe later bob

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Greg
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Post by Greg » Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:14 am

Bob ... did your FCRs have an accelerator pump on the RH unit?? I bought a set from Germany supposed to be for a TDM but the accelerator pump casting on the carb body fouls the oil filler pipe...

G

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Max
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Post by Max » Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:06 am

Bob, get yourself a different set of cables, or a quick throttle with two wires. I really would suggest running on one wire. All it takes is a kink in the wire or something fouling the linkage and you could be stuck wide open.
Max

(TaZ, tz250w)

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