WIDE REAR END? R1 R6 ?

youngy · Post by **youngy** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:29 am

I must learn to read these posts properly.....I missed that.

Well spotted Mr Phuk!

cheesie · Post by **cheesie** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:37 pm

xjr has a 5.5 inch rear wheel you will need a 6 inch jobto fit a 200 on I dont see the point of fitting a 200 rear tyre apart from looks

funnymachine · Post by **funnymachine** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:44 pm

phuk72 wrote: You are planning to move the entire engine across the frame to line up the sprockets?

I am...

And I am a lot more worried about what it looks like than how it goes around corners

funnymachine · Post by **funnymachine** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:03 pm

cheesie wrote:you will need a 6 inch job to fit a 200 on

So I am looking for a Suzuki Hayabusa wheel then?

honkdawillydahonk · Post by **honkdawillydahonk** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:25 pm

funnymachine wrote: So I am looking for a Suzuki Hayabusa wheel then?

R1 rear wheels are 6" and the disc fitting is the same as a TRX... Might be easier?

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:20 am

R1 wheel, 190 section tyre. This photo shows how big it is, but its not 100% sorted in this pic. Ill have to take a new one to show the finished product.

Thats a complete R1 rear end. Swinger, brake, sprocket and wheel. (axle and bearings too obviously).

If you change your wheel over to something larger, your gonna have to change your front sprocket to match the chain pitch. So by doing that, yer.. you get the idea.

"quickest" and "easiest" option, while still being able to have a large rear wheel.. Id say a YZF swinger + wheel, you might be able to squeeze on a 190 tyre (someone please confirm that).

Ill also note that by having a swinger that is as wide as it is, the exhaust comes SCARY close to touching it just behind the right rear set. With the bike on its side stand, and you rock it a bit, to take some weight off the rear suspension, you can force it to touch.. Thats if the bike is in its "high" position via an adjustable dogbone i made.. Normally its fine, but it DOES get close.. I wouldnt be wanting to do any jumps @ TT on the thing, put it that way. Ive yet to modify the exhaust to compensate for it.

funnymachine · Post by **funnymachine** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:14 am

honkdawillydahonk wrote:R1 rear wheels are 6" and the disc fitting is the same as a TRX... Might be easier?

So the spindle is the same diameter?

the disk will bolt straight on?

the carrier for the calliper is the same?

so I need an R1 wheel with a sprocket basically?

Thanks

Mark

Post by **phuk72** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:30 pm

funnymachine wrote:
honkdawillydahonk wrote:R1 rear wheels are 6" and the disc fitting is the same as a TRX... Might be easier?
So the spindle is the same diameter?

the disk will bolt straight on?

the carrier for the calliper is the same?

so I need an R1 wheel with a sprocket basically?

Thanks

Mark

The simple answer to you question is no. Only the early R1 rears share the same disk fitting but the rest is completely different. Calliper is not the same, spindle is different length and diameter.

Post by **phuk72** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:44 pm

funnymachine wrote:
phuk72 wrote: You are planning to move the entire engine across the frame to line up the sprockets?
I am...

And I am a lot more worried about what it looks like than how it goes around corners

OK, I have to ask. Have you really thought this through?

You are asking about a rear wheel that basically bolts on and in the same breath talking about moving the engine 50mm across the frame!

Moving the motor is a huge job and you are going to have to modify the frame (as in cut it and reweld to accomodate engine mounts and revised position etc). You are going to have problems with exhaust routing, the airbox will no longer fit under the tank etc etc.

And then, the bit I find really odd, is that by moving the motor you will have to either fabricate new swinging arm mounts or radically alter the rear of the frame. If you are capable of the above then why are you looking for a rear wheel to bolt in?

If I was undertaking such a massive task involving modding the frame I would be buying a complete rear end (from whatever I fancied to give me the big wheel look) and fabricate new swinger and shock mounts.

And then it gets really strange because you say this:

I want my "spares" to be standard.

Don't get me wrong, if you want to do this then go for it. Personally I can't wait to see the results but it strikes me than you are being somewhat over ambitious here.

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 2:23 pm

as ive previously stated.. if you want a "bling" look, get a YZF swingarm + wheel, chrome / polish / paint them how you want, put a fat tyre on it.

That is the simplest method and you have simple "off the shelf" parts.

You can also look at the chain if you wish, but you can just get away with it on a 180 tyre, but a 190 / 200 will require some custom front sprocket, which will cost all of about $30 (15 pounds ?)

If you really want to spend some money, get a single sided swinger and offset it via some handy work.. You can get a 240 tyre in there if you want. Ive seen it done on a few busas and R1s. Im sure if theres a single sided swinger for a R1, and ive made a R1 swinger fit into a TRX, theres a way.

heres 2 options for you.. Now go forth and prosper !

funnymachine · Post by **funnymachine** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:06 pm

phuk72 wrote:You are asking about a rear wheel that basically bolts on and in the same breath talking about moving the engine 50mm across the frame!

I am actually asking "how much of what I already have is usable on an R1 wheel?"

I am not worried at all about altering the frame, I don't really want an airbox and I can always re-route the exhausts.

I don't like the look of the ZX12R wheel - the Hayabusa has straight spokes and I prefer the Isle Of Man look so if the R1 wheel is MT 6.00 then I'll go for that and try and find a wheel complete with a disk, carrier, calliper, sprocket and spindle.

Thanks for your help guys.

Mark

Post by **phuk72** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:31 pm

funnymachine wrote: I am actually asking "how much of what I already have is usable on an R1 wheel?"

Thanks for your help guys.

Mark

the early R1 wheels will accept the TRX disc BUT that is all (and it's a 5.5 so wouldn't really take a 200)

Also, I'm not sure the standard swinging arm will take a 6 inch rim (or a 200 section tyre)

funnymachine · Post by **funnymachine** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:22 pm

phuk72 wrote:I'm not sure the standard swinging arm will take a 6 inch rim (or a 200 section tyre)

Okay - I am not planning on using the swing arm. I guess I need a later model R1 wheel with everything.

Have just been doing some planning.

My bike has a 160 tyre on it right now and there is about 15mm clearance between the chain and the wheel.

The 160 tyre on my rim is as close to 160 as I can measure.

Making the assumption that a 200 tyre on an MT 6.00 rim will be be 200mm wide means that I have an extra 40mm to take into consideration.

That is 20mm per side if the wheel isn't offset.

Taking a wild guess that an R1 with a 190 tyre on it has 15mm between the tyre and the chain...

Means I need to move the engine 15mm to the left to have 10mm clearance?

Someone mentioned dished sprockets - where do I find out more about them? Has anyone got a URL?

And will this company have a supply of them in years to come when I need to replace parts of what may one day be a classic bike?

Many thanks

Mark

honkdawillydahonk · Post by **honkdawillydahonk** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:19 pm

funnymachine wrote: So the spindle is the same diameter?

No bigger but... This makes spacing easier as you can make 'top hat' type spacers (much easier than going the other way...)

funnymachine wrote: the disk will bolt straight on?

Yep.

funnymachine wrote: the carrier for the calliper is the same?

No. But you can use the TRX stuff as the disc is the same..

funnymachine wrote: so I need an R1 wheel with a sprocket basically?

I guess that'd be a start.

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:44 am

i made my own dished sprocket.

I got a brand new one, a blank flat steel one, not one like the TRX has with all the rubber on it.

I took the stock TRX one with the rubber on it, machined all the rubber off, and machined the teeth off. I was left with a disk.

I got the new sprocket, and put it on a lathe, i machined out the centre big enough to fit a socket which tightens / loosens the 27mm nut that holds the sprocket on. I put a little step on it when i machined it so the other blank one i just machined would fit perfectly central in it.

Welded them together. I had the whole lot done in under 1hr. It packed it out the width of a sprocket, which is about 12mm (just shy of 1/2").