Spension first

Post by **phuk72** » Thu May 15, 2014 1:23 pm

wurlyvalve wrote:Yep, std 120/60/431.8 at the front -.

As soon as you get a chance, change it to a 70 section front - the 60 section was only put on as a fashion statement (Japanese obsession at the time with low profile tyres) and is widely acknowledged as a mistake

wurlyvalve · Post by **wurlyvalve** » Thu May 15, 2014 4:43 pm

Brilliant advice. Many thanks

I will, the front tyre needs replacing this summer.

Right, finished work. Lets twiddle!

Glen.

wurlyvalve · Post by **wurlyvalve** » Thu May 15, 2014 5:19 pm

Well, I found the F rebound at 2 clicks out (ACW) from 4. F tyre at 1.63bar. R rebound at 20 clicks out (ACW) from 30. R comp at 8 clicks out (ACW) from 20. R tyre at 2.38bar.

I've put the settings nearer to what was suggested.

phil108 · Post by **phil108** » Thu May 15, 2014 6:16 pm

phuk72 wrote:
wurlyvalve wrote:Yep, std 120/60/431.8 at the front -.
As soon as you get a chance, change it to a 70 section front - the 60 section was only put on as a fashion statement (Japanese obsession at the time with low profile tyres) and is widely acknowledged as a mistake

Wish I knew this before I replaced mine for the mot a couple of months ago..........

Post by **Kevtrx849** » Thu May 15, 2014 7:14 pm

Before you put the standard dogbones back on make sure you have enough adjustment in your chain to compensate for the lowering. +1 for the 70 profile, 60 just feels deadly.

M.V. · Post by **M.V.** » Fri May 16, 2014 12:53 am

wurlyvalve wrote:Top yokes, fork poke through.

That looks about right actually, maybe even a little more than stock, which is a common mod.

Your imperial measurements threw me

wurlyvalve · Post by **wurlyvalve** » Fri May 16, 2014 7:09 am

Don't mind me - I'm just a trouble maker. I was actually measuring my swingarm in hands.....

I found a pen that the wife had bought me for Christmas which has a rule inscribed on its side - this is the closest thing I have to tools away from home at the week!!!!!!! It does look, on closer inspection like 18.5mm yoke poke. But I'll get the verniers out when I get near to my workshop.

I think this is a resounding 70 profile nod then.

Just to double check, when I put a sensible dogbone on, do I want to add the extra 20mm of yoke poke to the existing 18.5mm? So 38.5mm net? Seems staggering

Actually, do I want to add 25mm to the 18.5mm a.) to improve/return the rake b.) to compensate for the 70 profile tyre. So 43.5mm net?

Cheers all,
Glen.

cobbadiggabuddyblooo · Post by **cobbadiggabuddyblooo** » Fri May 16, 2014 7:59 am

Just try it with your forks as they are to start with the std dogbones .
I have an idea Kayla make a multiple size dogbone with with 2 holes in each end.
So you have two sizes running parallel and two sizes if you bolt it up diagonally ..
Send her a PM and you will have the two dogbone lengths suggested in one pair of dogbones plus 2 others if you choose to experiment.

Post by **phuk72** » Fri May 16, 2014 8:47 am

Once you've got the geometry sorted, change the fork oil and have a go at the sag. you'll then find out you need the rear shock rebuilt

Wombat · Post by **Wombat** » Mon May 19, 2014 6:33 am

Geez, I must be the only one who likes the 60 profile on the front

Bob

alextrx850 · Post by **alextrx850** » Mon May 19, 2014 9:59 am

Wombat wrote:Geez, I must be the only one who likes the 60 profile on the front

Bob

i just nearly spat my coffee all over the iPad...

cobbadiggabuddyblooo · Post by **cobbadiggabuddyblooo** » Mon May 19, 2014 12:24 pm

There is quite a valid reason for Yamaha placing a 60 series on the front and that was to get it drop in and turn a little quicker.
There is nothing really wrong with a 60 series but on a practicality note ,a 70 just gives you a little added protection on the road with a deeper wall with potholes and entering driveways and jumping from a 70 series back to a 60 series you can feel the willingness to just drop in from under you the further you bank it over into the corner and can be a little daunting until you get use to the feel once again.
The 70 series just feels a little more progressive and a little more effort to get it over with a little more rolling mass further away from the centre of the rim.
The main reason I chose to go to a 70 series was because the slick I was running on the front where a 70 series so I didn't have to change things too much when doing trackdays once set up for a 70 series..
You actually get a touch more contact patch too with a 70 series when banked over but most don't even really go there with chicken strips of 5mm or more.

wurlyvalve · Post by **wurlyvalve** » Mon May 19, 2014 12:59 pm

That is something that I've noticed between the wifes' bike (GSXR400) and mine, the handlebars really spin 'in' on you with the TRX (on 60's) when the surface is less than ideal, whereas the GSXR just banks with less handlebar feedback. I see one criticism of the 60's were running out of tyre before the rear. I have to say, I have less chicken strip left on the rear than I do on the front.

Not measured my static sag yet as I'm on my own. Tape measure and bike balancing seemed like a dangerous game to me.

The only measurement I have taken is the rake - unloaded. So my fat rs was not on the back. I get 22.2degrees. Fiesty! But maybe my ballast will straighten that up a tad. Will repeat when I can persuade the wife to hold the bike upright.....

I have been in touch with Kayla, so I think I will be switching to a less ambitious rear dogbone pair.

cheers,
Glen.

Con Rod · Post by **Con Rod** » Mon May 19, 2014 2:51 pm

theoretically this could work, but not sure if it has been done

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-YZF-600-R ... 540424ad58

Wombat · Post by **Wombat** » Tue May 20, 2014 3:32 am

Thank you Cobba for not laughing.................................

Anyway,coming from a LeMans 4 with the evil handling 16" front wheel, a 60 profile shod TRX is nothing but an improvement!

Bob

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